Li's crafting thoughts 4-01-07

Last week I finally made a new batch of vegan cream and lip balm to send to a couple people that I'd promised. I've given my cream and lip balms to several people; so far the reviews have been good. The biggest compliment has been from my sister, who I gave her some cream to help her inflammed skin. She said it was awesome and really helped heal her skin! :)

My crafting agenda for the next few days: I think I'm going to work on crafting more perfumes. As I've mentioned, I restocked my essential oil collection and now have nearly 50 organic essential oils (only maybe 6 or so are non-organic) and I can't wait to start experimenting with more complex perfume blends.

Like the ancient Eqyptians and many other ancient or indigenous cultures, pagans, herbalists, and aromatherapists, I see perfume as more than something that smells good or an aphrodisiac but also as a means of communicating with the spirit. In addition to the cosmetic and medicinal properties of essential oils, the scent of essential oils affects moods, emotions, and certain oils can help a person attain a level of spiritual awareness. Essential oils directly influence the limbic brain, the "seat of the emotions/conscious/soul" that controls memory, hormones, stress, some bodily functions (like heart rate), and emotions.

So I really need to craft, breathe in my essential oils, and do some serious healing! :)

Li's crafting thoughts 3-21-07

I finally got myself a new mixer and made a batch of whipped shea. Though the texture was creamy, it didn't turn out quite as light and fluffy as I'd hoped since I used the wire whisk attachment instead of the regular beaters. I had thought the wire whisk would make a fluffier butter (my thinking was "whisk=more air") but apparantly I was wrong! Next time I'll stick to just using the regular beaters. If it ain't broke, don't fix it :)

I also made a serum for my pimples (I haven't had acne in years, aside from the occasional blemish around my period, but because of stress/sadness recently I've actually broken out!) It seems to be working well. Instead of putting it in a regular dropper bottle I put it in one of those roller bottles (usually used for perfumes or gloss), making it much easier to apply.

I've also been experimenting with masks and scrubs this week (all natural and vegan and all containing agave nectar). I plan to post these recipes on all natural beauty portal's website when I have some time. Though I miss honey I'm really loving agave nectar in skin care; it seems to clean and hydrate the skin as much as honey does and isn't as sticky (though I think honey contains much more vitamins/minerals than agave).

This week's agenda: I need to make a new batch of my vegan cream (since I promised a couple people cream but my last batch went grainy) and maybe work on crafting new perfume blends. And pour more lip balms!

Li's crafting thoughts 3-14-07

Last week I didn't get to craft as much as I'd like; my heart just wasn't into it. But I did craft a couple of things.

I made an herbal infused oil (long traditional way) so it should be ready in a couple of weeks. Though my focus has been mainly on aromatherapy (with some herbalism) I've been learning more about traditional herbalism in the last couple years so have been trying to use more whole herbs in my medicinal and cosmetic remedies/crafts recently.

I also made a couple of aromatherapy blends for someone I really cared about, but never gave them to him, because, well, he broke my heart :( So I'm not really sure what to do with them; maybe use them to fragrance liquid soap, or in my own diffuser? Haven't decided yet.

I didn't get to make a batch of my beloved whipped shea because I still haven't bought a new hand beater/mixer (old one broke). So hopefully this week.

On the agenda this week: the whipped shea butter and maybe a cream or lip balm.

Li's crafting thoughts 3-05-07

I didn't get to craft much last week, I only got to try out a few new ingredients like essential oils and have been re-trying carrier oils that I haven't used for a long time.

I think that apricot oil is underrated. I haven't used it in years but it is really a nice, light oil that is usually recommended for massage/body oils. I've been using it straight on my face; it has a light texture and absorbs quite well but forms a slightly heavier (but still light) barrier on the skin than my beloved kukui and camellia oils.

The bad news is I think I may be allergic to Melissa aka Lemon Balm essential oil (the first essential oil I've ever had a reaction to) which is strange since I've used the hydrosol in the past (and hydrosols contain a small percentage of essential oil), only used it at the 1/2% dilution (usually it is recommended to use it at the 1% concentration or less), and have also used lemongrass essential oil (at the 2% concentration) with no reaction (which contains citral which is the same sensitizing ingredient in Melissa. Then again lemongrass has other chemical compenents that somewhat lessen the citral effects). However, the smell is an effective anti-depressent and it does get rid of PMS symptons; my skin just felt hyper sensitive (I got goosebumps and it felt prickly. Very weird sensation). Well I suppose I can always use it in a diffuser--it's too expensive to let it go to waste! I may have to do an allergy test patch with it, as it may have just been that my skin was just more sensitive since I tend to get strange skin reactions during this time of the month, just to make sure it really was the Melissa and not pms (Note: if you deside to buy it be sure to get it from a reputable source as it is often adulterated).

On this week's agenda: on the GOW forum a lot of people have been talking about whipped shea butter. I haven't made this yummy concoction in a while as I need a new mixer/beater! But as soon as I get one I'm going to try whipping liquids into it since a couple people mentioned they successfully did this (without an emulsifier. Shea does have natural waxes in it so I guess this is why it works).

Of course I have a never ending list of things I want to make. Also I've recently gotten over a dozen essential oils and a dozen carrier oils I have never worked with previously before so I still need to try all of them individually (I did make a cream with over ten of the new oils in it several weeks ago. It was pretty nice except I added too much of a gum to it so the texture was a bit off so need to maybe retry this recipe. But I haven't tried the oils individually yet)

Vegan Baked Goods at Whole Foods (Vegetarian/Vegan Food Information)

I was just walking in the Philly Whole Foods this weekend, when I noticed they had vegan baked goods. For those that are relatively new to Whole Foods and buy regularly at the bakery department this may not be a surprise to you, but it was to me. I remember that before Whole Foods bought out Fresh Fields (in the DC area) Fresh Fields used to have a very good assortment of vegan desserts: from cookies to cakes and everything in between. I used to enjoy them on the rare occasions I went to Fresh Fields (I was young and didn't have a car) but to my dismay after Whole Foods bought them out, all the vegan desserts disappeared. Now I don't know when exactly they brought them back (I obviously haven't been looking at the baked goods section for the last three years) but it was really nice to see vegan desserts back on the shelves--even if my hypoglycemia is worse and I can't eat them (they contain white flour and sugar). I didn't get to check to see if the DC/VA Whole Foods carry the vegan desserts/baked goods, but will post when I do. My mom, who tried the vegan carrot cake, loves it (my mom is one of the pickiest eaters in the world, and also--after all this time--still hasn't accepted the fact that me being veggie is healthy).

Li's crafting thoughts

I've been crafting like mad recently. I've been trying to craft natural cosmetics no less than three times a week--ideally I'd like to craft at least 5 times a week, but with school work (mainly consisting of my thesis and work for my seminar class on ecotourism), and just every day living spending time with my family, friends, and boyfriend, and trying to get my health back completely on track that isn't possible right now. But in the last few months I feel like I've been more focused on crafting than I ever have: I've been thinking a lot about my future, about opening my own business and what types of products I'd possibly like to make and sell. In the past I used to just concoct one product, and once made, start working on a different product, usually never experimenting with the proportions, or even ever making the exact same recipe again (too many different ingredients to play with, and too many recipes to think up of). I still do that to some extent now, but I've been focusing more on trying to get the texture right, revamping the formula, and just trying different proportions, etc.

Recently I've mostly been crafting vegan lip balms, vegan creams, and also (melt and pour) soaps, but I've also been experimenting with perfume combinations as well. Some of the recipes have turned out wonderful (I've made two vegan balms and a vegan cream I love very much), and others have turned out not quite to my liking (either I just use them as is--dealing with the weird textures--, or I melt it down and play with the proportions, or I use it to make an entirely different product. Quite a few of my balms have been made into creams). But over all I've been really happy with what I've been crafting.

I've gotten quite a few new carrier oils (I think by now I've tried over thirty different oils), been playing around with different emusifiers (waxes and gums), and recently just restocked my essential oil collection. My essential oils now consist primarily of organic oils, though a couple of them (the more expensive ones, or a couple that I don't use as much) are conventional. I've also bought many essential oils I haven't tried yet. I can't wait to start experimenting with them but my credit card sure has been burning! ;)

I am still intent on crafting vegan cosmetics, though I do miss some ingredients (like yogurt, honey, and beeswax). I still have a ton of beeswax left still, and am debating what to do with it. Candles, maybe?

Essential And Carrier Oil Storage; Droppers; Recognizing True Essential Oils; Using PEOs neat; Shelflife (Aromatherapy)

I've already blogged about storage and shelflife of aromatherapy products and also storage and shelf life of essential oils but several more questions have come up in recent months so I thought I'd post more about this topic.


Can I store my essential oils in a glass container with a rubber bulb?

I do not recommend storing any essential oil with a rubber bulb, because over time (to my knowledge) all essential oils will dissolve the rubber, releasing toxins into the essential oil.


Can I store carrier oils in clear bottles? What about essential oils? Can I change the bottles?

It is fine to store carrier oils in clear bottles (but just don't store them in direct sunlight). But for a mix of carrier oils and essential oils, I prefer dark colored glass because essential oils eventually eat through plastic (I've had this happen to me when I first began crafting), degrade easily when exposed to light, and may cause leaching of the plastic's toxins into your product. For short term storage it would probably be okay to use dark colored plastic bottles, but I just generally use glass.

I usually store my essential oils in the bottles they come in (dark 10 ml to 1 ounce glass bottles). If you change bottles make sure they are sterile and also that there is no room for air in the bottle (air=oxidation). (blue or amber is standard but I'm sure other colors would work well too).


Which dropper is the best to use: the orifice reducers or glass droppers? Where can I buy them?

To measure drops I usually use a glass dropper. I usually remove the plastic drop dispenser aka orifice reducers that comes with the essential oils for two reasons: I buy essential oils from several companies so all of the drop dispensers are different (so drop size would be different if I used the drop dispenser, which may alter scent blends), and over time essential oils eat through plastic releasing toxins (so I never really understood why they were included, other than for convenience).

Most companies include the drop dispensers if it is a small sized bottle (under 30 ml in most cases), but really small bottles (1-3 ml) and larger bottles usually don't have them). And some companies do not use them at all--even for the regular 10 to 15 ml sizes.

Some places that sell glass droppers:

Camden Grey

Garden of Wisdom

Mountain Rose Herbs


You may also find them locally (vendors that sell essential oils or in a pharmacy. They are sometimes called medicine or eye droppers)

If you have children, you may prefer the orifice droppers for safety reasons (also some people prefer them since they are convenient).



How do I recognize if an essential oil is a true, undiluted, pure essential oil (PEO) or if it's been diluted/adulterated?

An easy way to test if an essential oil is pure or not is to put one drop on a piece of paper and let dry. Steam distilled or expressed essential oils will usually not leave an oily residue behind. However this will not work if the essential oil is an absolute (extracted with solvents), as this will probably leave a residue behind. Also if it was diluted with another essential oil, fragrance oil, alcohol, etc, it may also not leave an oily residue.


Can I apply PEOs "neat"/undiluted?

Always dilute essential oils before use. Though some can be applied neat, applying an essential oil neat is only for during emergencies (like insect bites) and not for every day usage. Most essential oils should not be used neat as essential oils are highly concentrated substances, and some of them in high doses are toxic. Some, like cajeput, can be very irritating to the skin.


I've had this essential oil for a while, how do I check to make sure it's still okay to use?

The strength of the smell. When you open the bottle, slowly wave your hand across the top and breathe it in. Is it strong smelling or can you barely smell it?

As a general rule, citrus essential oils have a shelf life of 6 months to a year. Most others have a shelf life of 1 to 2 years. And some, like a few of the resinous ones or a few of the woody or grassy ones, get better with age: sandalwood, patcholli, etc. According to Tisserand and Balacs (1995), refrigeration can double shelf life. If you've had them for a while, you may just want to use them to fragrance things like paper, rooms, etc since many of the medicinal, antibacterial, and cosmetic properties would be diminished.

Puffy Eyes (All Natural Skin Care)

My eyes are really puffy; what natural products can I use for puffiness and general eye care?

The classic remedies for puffy eyes are to apply either cold cucumber slices or chamomile tea bags (dampen; okay to use used tea bags) to the eyes for 15 to 20 minutes.

If you don't have time for that, try a serum or cream with german chamomile or helichrysum essential oil (6-12 drops of essential oils in 1 ounce of carrier oil or cream), which are both good for inflammmation and puffiness.

For general eye care, I recommend using shea butter around the eye area. Since west shea may be a little hard to spread, either let it melt in your hands before applying, or use east shea which is easier to spread. Also some good carrier oils to use are rosehip seed oil, camellia oil, and kukui nut oil (all are anti-aging and nourishing). For those that don't want to use straight oils and butters, try buying a natural eye cream that has some of these ingredients.

Vegetarian vs Vegan: And What Do Bees Have To Do With It? (Vegetarian/Vegan Information)

Recently when I was in Philly my sister brought me to this "vegan" natural soap store. This store made me sigh for two reasons. First (in a good way), because it was a small cute shop in which the owner ran and also made most of the products, which were mainly natural (some were all natural, some were I guess around 70-90% natural). It was similar to something that I would maybe like to own and run myself someday. But then I read the ingredients of the soap, and I sighed (in a bad way this time) because while they used a vegan base, they also used ingredients like beeswax, goats milk, and silk protein; making the soap not vegan. I didn't confront the owner about this (which I kind of regret) mainly because I am not a vegan and didn't want to get into an argument on what's vegan and not. I did buy two soaps which were vegan, but they were not the store brand but other brands that they stocked. Anyways I thought it would be a good time to pull out a very old question that I answered a long time ago on veganism vs vegetarianism, and bee/insect products. Also more on my thoughts on crafting vegan natural products.

What is the difference between a vegetarian and a vegan? And why do vegans avoid products from bees?

I'm just vegetarian, and not vegan (not yet anyhow), but the difference between a vegetarian and a vegan is that while both will not consume meat and products derived directly from an animal (like meat, meat stocks, marrow, gelatin, carmine, fur, and fish--though some people who consider themselves 'vegetarians' eat fish or chicken (which I don't understand)--, and some vegeterians wear leather and some don't), vegans go even further and do not consume any products that come from animals, even if it does not involve the death of the animals (like eggs, dairy, beeswax, honey, lanolin). People are vegetarian because of a wide range of reasons (cultural, religious, environmental, animal rights, health), but (as I see it) most people that are vegan are vegan because of animal rights reasons (though some may be vegan because of other reasons too).

In beekeeping the majority of the honey made by the bees (some companies 2/3 of the total honey produced, some all of the honey) is taken from the bees, and they are then given a sugar solution to last the winter. Also some companies (not all) may kill the queen bee each year, because it somehow increases honey production. Also in removing honey, other bees may accidentally be killed too (they scrap the beeswax and honey from the screens they use). Also some vegans do not agree with disrupting the natural cycles of the bees (most 'beehives' in honey producing are wooden boxes with removable screens). Many vegans feel that animals, including insects, should not be exploited in any shape or form by humans.



My thoughts on vegetarianism and veganism:
When I first became vegetarian about a dozen years ago, it was mainly due to environmental and animal rights reasons. Nowadays, it has involved into more of an environmental/spiritual reason, and also because of health. Last semester I took a seminar on urban wildlife (one of my focuses of my research), and researching for one of the assignments made me get back to thinking about the animal rights side of things, and in some strange way, back to a part of me. I don't know if I can ever be vegan diet wise (since I already have so many diet restrictions and have low B-12 levels, and went through hell the last couple years due to health problems partially due to this) but I'm trying to be more humane in the rest of my life. I no longer consume honey (I'm also hypoglycemic), and am trying to craft vegan all natural cosmetics (I see it as a challenge, especially since it is hard to find a truly all natural all vegan company on the market). Currently I still use beeswax and lanolin to craft since I have a ton left, but as soon as I'm out I have no plans to buy it again. I have also stopped using honey in cosmetics, and over two years ago stopped buying products with carmine in them (once I realized what carmine really was!). I recently crafted my first vegan cream, and am so proud of myself! My sister tried it and told me I should definitely sell it oneday! :)

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Naturally-derived/synthetic Detergents in Cosmetics and Cleaning Supplies (All Natural Cosmetics/Herbal Natural Cleaning)

What is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and is it really "derived from coconut oil"?

In my opinion, the phase "SLS derived from coconut oil" or most detergents "derived from coconut oil" in cosmetics is basically a marketing scam from companies to claim that their products are natural. Once upon a time ago most SLS was derived from coconut oil, but it was so processed, it could never be considered natural since the oil underwent so many chemical changes (hence becoming detergent). Nowadays, from my understanding, most SLS is derived from the Ziegler process--synthetic synthesis--and not from coconuts.

That said, there is a fine line about what is considered natural and what's not. For example, most "natural" liquid dish soap and laundry detergents are made from "naturally derived"/synthetic detergents and most people accept them as natural (since the product contains nothing but the detergent, essential oil, and maybe a bit of preservative and color, so no bleach and other toxic and irritating chemicals). It depends on how you define natural, as there is no set standard on the definition, and everyone has their own interpretations on what's natural.

I personally do not like ANY naturally derived/synthetic detegents in cosmetics (even the mild ones and non-toxic ones like coco polyglucose) because a) I've found that most naturally-derived/synthetic detergents remove too much of the natural oils from my skin and hair (much more than natural soap) and I have dehydrated skin and hair so that is a concern for me, b) some like SLS are irritants (when I use a "natural" toothpaste with SLS my gums bleed), and c) I'm just too anal in wanting to use and make all natural cosmetics or as natural as I can get. ;) (Though toothpaste is my bane, as nearly all brands have some form of naturally-derived/synthetic detergent, and the ones that don't seem to be too abrasive for my teeth to use on a regular basis).

I do use "natural" dish and laundry detergent though--the dish detergent cleans better than most natural liquid soaps I've tried (though I tend to wash my crafting dishes with liquid castille, which works fine for that), and natural laundry detergent doesn't leave my clothes feeling stiff or affect the color of my clothes (though some brands I've tried do). And most natural brands are biodegradable :) (though be sure to read the label as many synthetic detergents are made from petrochemicals, are not very biodegradable, and are pollutants).

Natural Facial Cleansers: What To Use and Where To Buy Samples (All Natural Cosmetics)

A few months ago someone asked on a forum where to buy samples of all natural facial cleansers. I decided to post my response to her here (edited and with additional information, of course), because like many people, I prefer to buy samples myself, before buying full size (though nowadays I craft the majority of what I use).

What are some brands of all natural face cleansers and where can I buy samples of them?

As I've mentioned many times before, my favorite facial soaps are the soaps from Heart Of Iowa . And J. Lynne Cosmetics sells samples of these soaps. Out of the many brands of all natural soaps I've tried these are the only soaps I will use on my facial skin (other natural soaps dry out my facial skin too much). They gently cleanse the skin, without leaving my skin tight and dry. Note to other all natural purists, some of the soaps do contain synthetic fragrances while others are all natural, so be sure to read the ingredients before buying. My favorite is the shea soap, but I also like the carrot soap (when my skin is less dry) and the dead sea mud soap as well (to remove toxins, when my skin is more oily).

Dr. Hauschka makes an awesome non-drying cleansing milk and cleansing cream that is perfect for dry and normal skin types, however this company is a bit pricey. They sell sample kits of their skin care, and you can find their products at places like Whole Foods or on their website. The sample kit is an economical way to try their products before investing in the full sized products. For the most part, many of their products are all natural formulations, though some of them do contain synthetics.

Aubrey Organics sells travel sizes of their skin care on their website, in their "travel a go-go" kits, which include cleanser, toner, moisturizer, and mask. They are offering them half price on their website now, which kind of worries me because I think they may be getting rid of their travel kits from their product line.

A great place to try all natural cleansers is Cosmetics Without Synthetics' website, which sells many different all natural or nearly all natural brands. They have samples of nearly every product they sell.

Terressentials also sells sample kits of their cleanser, toner, and facial creams/lotions. I actually haven't tried their facial care yet but have tried other products (like their hand soap) and met them at the D.C. Green Festival a couple years ago. This is a company with a conscious, and I'm going to try their facial skin care soon.

Another company I wanted to eventually try was Alexandra Avery's skin care line. Avery is a well known aromatherapist, and her skin care has won many awards. She sells a sample kit that includes many of her products.

And of course, you could always miy! Great all natural cleansers are honey and/or clay. You can mix them up or use them separately. I prefer rhassoul clay (a clay from Africa that is used in many spas) since that is non-drying, and has actually been shown to reduce dryness. You can get it at Garden of Wisdom or Mountain Rose Herbs. Monave also sells a clay-honey cleanser (you can buy samples of any Monave product, if it's not on the website, just e-mail them to ask). I don't clean my skin all the time with clay and honey since it's picky and I'm trying to use only vegan cosmetics now, but when I used to use this, it worked great and made my skin feel so soft! For vegans, I've tried using agave nectar, and it seems to clean as well as honey, and also made my skin soft. However I am not sure if agave has as much nutrients as honey, since it is mainly frutose.

I also used to use yogurt (with or without honey) to clean my skin, which works great for all skin types. Be sure to get plain, unsweetened, organic yogurt.

An infusion of soapwort root (an herb) can be used in place of soap, which may work for you. It is very gentle. It doesn't sud much but it will get your skin and hair very clean. I've been using soapwort this winter since my skin has been quite dry this season. I just bought soapnut, and hope to also try yucca root soon too.

You can also use a carrier oil to clean your skin. Some people with dry to normal skin may be able to clean with an oil, tone, and then moisturize, but if your skin is oily or dehydrated and prone to clogging then you may want to follow it with a soap, because otherwise your skin may become too greasy and your pores may clog. If you just want to use a cleansing oil, I suggest kukui nut or camellia oils (my favorite oils, both very light and fast absorbing). Some people also love olive (a medium weight oil), or almond or apricot (both light weight but not as light as camellia), and extra virgin coconut (used for dry skin, and some people with normal skin) to cleanse. Some people also prefer to use cold cream, but it is hard to find an all natural cold cream on the market (I need to retry the formula for Galen's cold cream eventually, and I actually just made a non-greasy, clean rinsing cold cream. I am so proud of myself).

Review of Aubrey Organics Rosa Mosqueta Skin Care Line (All Natural Skin Care)

I've tried about 80-90% of Aubrey Organics' products, including nearly all of their skin care line (I think there may be two specialty creams I haven't used).

First I'd like to say that I greatly admire Aubrey Hampton. He has a background in both chemistry and herbalism so really understands both sides of the cosmetic industry (he has a degree in chemistry and worked as a cosmetic chemist before starting his own company, and he learned herbalism from his mother and a neighbor). He understands what herbs work best for what skin type. It was actually his books that got me first interested in natural cosmetics.

Aubrey Organics is also one of the only truly natural lines available in health food stores (most claim to be natural but contain synthetics).

Review of the rosa mosqueta skin line: I really like their cleanser but didn't care too much for their toner because it contains witch hazel extract (I can't use any alcohol in toner because it dries out my face too much but this would be perfect for other skin types). Their body lotions are my favorite out of any brand (the rosa mosqueta lotion makes my skin so soft, and all of their lotions are fast absorbing). Their face lotions are highly absorbent and non-greasy which some people love, though personally I need something that not only absorbs fast and doesn't leave my skin greasy, but also I need something that forms a breathable, non-clogging barrier to prevent water loss; so their face lotions for day time use don't work so well for me. But I love their rosa mosqueta night creme, which is a mix of shea and rosa mosqueta which works great for my skin. I also love their eye cream, which is the only eye cream I've ever used that actually works. As for the 100% rosa mosqueta/rose hip seed oil, it is way over priced; it's better to get it at Mountain Rose Herbs or Garden of Wisdom. The rosa mosqueta mask is one of my favorite masks/scrubs of all time. It leaves my skin so soft!

I recommend getting the travel kit, which is a great deal (you get the cleanser, toner, lotion and mask for under $15; right now it is half price for under $8 on their website). Also if you buy through their website and spend over a certain amount, you get a free product (it isn't always advertised on their website but you should see the free product in the shopping cart). But I don't think they are doing this now, as they have other free deals now.

I haven't used their facial mist; but I believe it is a best seller.

I'm Hypoglycemic/diabetic and Veggie: What Can I Eat? (Hypoglycemia/Diabetes/Vegetarian Information)

As some of you know, I'm not only hypoglycemic (low blood sugar) but also vegetarian as well. One thing that I always hear is "What do you eat?". And the answer is: same as a regular veggie but whole grain, no sugar, lots of protein, etc--so at times even healthier than a regular veggie! It does take some time getting used to, but there is no reason a person can't be veggie while being hypoglycemic or diabetic at the same time (though since my B12 levels are kind of low and my metabolism is really fast so I require high amounts of calories, I don't know if I can ever be vegan healthwise; which is why I'm trying to be more cruelty free in other aspects of my life like crafting cosmetics! Anyways...). In addition,the hypoglycemic diet is really similiar to the diabetic one (except in some instances the hypoglycemic diet is probably a tad stricter since diabetics could probably still eat some of the things severe hypoglycemics can't), so the following tips are also helpful for veggie diabetics as well.

So here are some general tips for hypoglycemics/diabetics who are veggie:

1) Avoid white sugar, white rice, white flour, white pasta, and anything highly refined and processed. These four items will shoot your blood sugar up rapidly, then it will drop rapidly, often below what you started (and for diabetics, it'll rise up and stay there). The thing is that white sugar and white flour are in pretty much EVERYTHING so be sure to read labels carefully. I pretty much cook everything all my meals myself, and don't eat too much processed/pre-packaged foods.

2) Also you need to avoid things like honey, maple syrup, brown sugar etc.

3) I don't eat any white sugar or the sugars above--aside from fruit (note: super severe hypoglycemics may not be able to eat fruit at all), agave nectar in small amounts in the very occasional baked good, and the VERY small amounts of white sugar in breads (it's a very small amount of sugar compared to say a cake or something) and in some meat substitutes (again a small amount). The good thing I've found is that once you don't eat sugar, you don't crave it, so it isn't as hard as it sounds. Though some super severe hypoglycemics may not be able to tolerate sugar in any amount (in that case you'd have to bake your own bread).

4) My blood sugar problem is pretty bad so I don't really eat corn or potatoes that much anymore (too starchy). If I do, I only eat it in very small amounts and eat it with lots of protein. Note: when you cook potatoes, boil them in water which removes much of the starches. I've found I can eat a small amount of mashed potatoes with no problems (as long as I eat protein with it) but when I have potatoes that haven't been boiled, I sometimes feel sick.

5) Protein and fiber and fat are good at regulating blood sugar because it helps slow down the absorption of glucose/sugar. Be sure to eat a small amount of protein at every meal. Note: as a veggie, I hate it when people are convinced veggies don't get enough protein--it's actually the easiest nutrient to get! I always get asked "oh you're veggie, how do you get enough protein?" which to me is silly, because basically if you eat you get protein. As a hypoglycemic I eat so much protein it's almost disgusting. Personally as a veggie I am more concerned with getting enough B12.

6) Eat 5 to 7 small meals or snacks a day instead of 3 big meals a day. It is very important for hypoglycemics to eat every couple of hours to regulate blood sugar problems. For some it may be every 1 1/2 hours, for others every three hours. I usually eat three meals and 2 to 4 snacks a day.

So what to eat?

Avocados are your friend! They have protein and fat (good fat) and a natural chemical in them that helps regulate blood sugar.

Garlic and onions and cinnamon help lower blood sugar (I don't eat too much of these, only sometimes in small amounts. These spices/herbs would benefit someone who's diabetic though).

Whole wheat pastry flour is a good sub for white flour since it is not heavy or grainy at all (though don't try making cookies with this, it'll make them fluffy like little cakes. Ask me how I know). Also good: spelt (high in protein but can make breads etc dry so add more liquid) and whole wheat flour. I also use oat flour.

Whole grains instead of refined grains. Eat brown rice instead of white, whole wheat pasta instead of regular pasta, etc. Spelt and quinoa (which are high in nutrients and protein) are your friend.

Lots of veggie protein: tofu/soy, veggie burgers, quorn, seitan, tempeh, eggs, dairy, lentils, beans, and nuts galore (the nuts may be high in fat but a lot of times has the 'good' fats)

White sugar subs: One sugar I've found that doesn't affect blood sugar levels is agave nectar which has a low glycemic index. It is primarily frustose (which the body takes longer to break down, since the body has to convert it to a usable form: glucose). Also good is glycerin (I use glycerin in making natural cold syrups; make sure you get veggie glycerin).

Chocolate and carob: when I occasionally eat chocolate or carob I get grain sweetened chocolate from Sunspire, and also their unsweetened carob (available in veggie and vegan formulas).

Eat organic. Organic foods have more nutrients and less chemicals

Brown bag suggestions:

Whole wheat french bread with fresh mozzeralla and pesto/basil and tomatoes, black pepper. If you are using basil rather than the pesto add a drizzle of olive oil and basamic vinegar.

Calzones (pizza pockets) filled with lots of veggies, low fat cheese or soy cheese, veggie pepperoni, or maybe something like an indian filling.

Samosas; an indian pastry filled with an indian curry (usually potatoes and peas). Make the pastry with whole grain flour. And maybe other veggies if you can't have potato.

My favorite pita: feta (low fat or use a soy cheese), herbs (I like sage), olive oil and vinegar, a veggie burger (I like amy's california burgers), roasted peppers, olives, artichokes, tomatoes.

Cold pasta salad.

Cold bean salads.

I sometimes like to do an assortment of breads, cheeses (low fat or soy), veggies, fruit, guacamole and other spreads and make a bunch of small different sandwiches.

Veggie wraps with a soft herbed low fat cheese or soy cheese or marinated tofu.

Uses of Carrier Oils (All Natural Skin Care)

What can I use carrier oils for?

There are many uses for carrier oils. Here are some of my favorites:

-use as a hot oil hair treatment (infused with herbs or add essential oils)
-in balms/salves and body butters
-make lotions or creams with them
-use as a body/massage oil or bath oil (mixed with essential oils or infuse with herbs)
-use as a skin cleanser or makeup remover (good for dry skin or some normal skin types. If it's too oily, follow with soap)
-use as a serum (mixed with essential oil)
-add to soap (liquid or melt and pour or rebatched)
-in salt and sugar scrubs, or any kind of scrub
-in masks
-make an oil based perfume


What carrier oils can I use in my hair as a hot oil treatment?

You can use almost any carrier oil, but different carrier oils have different properties, and certain oils are better for specific skin and hair types.

Good alternatives for dry hair include extra virgin olive oil; evoo infused with rosemary is a classic natural hair treatment. If your hair is extra dry try avocado oil (very rich and heavy; better if you mix it with a lighter oil). Rosehip seed oil is very nourishing for dry to normal to dry hair. For normal hair, you could also use sweet almond or apricot oils, or try the evoo. For oily, try grapeseed oil. For all hair types, try camellia oil (which is one of the lightest oils out there, and is easier to shampoo out than the other oils). Be sure not to apply too much oil to your hair or it'll be hard to get out.


Where can I buy carrier oils; can I buy them locally?


Some stores like Walmart or maybe Target may sell jojoba and extra virgin coconut oil. You may be able to find coconut oil in a regular supermarket, but usually it's very refined and not the extra virgin unrefined kind. Usually you can find the oils in health food/natural food stores like Whole Foods (if you buy coconut oil from Whole Foods be sure you get the oils near the vitamin oil and not from the cooking section, since the ones near the vitamin aisle are unrefined/virgin and organic). You can also order them online like from Garden of Wisdom and Mountain Rose Herbs. I highly suggest purchasing organic, unrefined, cold pressed oils which contain more vitamins and nutrients.

Soapwort Cleanser (Herbal information/All Natural Cosmetics)

This fall/winter, the weather has been drying out my facial skin much more than usual. So I've stopped using my beloved shea soap on my face, and have been using soapwort instead.

Soapwort is a very gentle cleanser; it is so gentle that museums use it to clean antique fabrics. It can be used as a skin cleasner or shampoo or for fabrics, but I haven't tried it on fabrics yet!

I like it because it doesn't dry out my facial skin. It is a natural saponin, so doesn't lather as much as soap does but does turn slightly bubbly when you make it. It actually doesn't lather that much at all but it will clean your skin very well.

It is one of the only decoctions that I know of that you can make that actually has a long shelf life. One source (Worwood) says it will last indefinitely, but if you infuse it with other herbs like most recipes recommend shelf life (non-refrigerated) is reduced to 8 to 11 or so days.

Directions adapted from the book "The New Age Herbalist".

To make, pour boiling water (2-3 cups) over 1 oz of the root, let steep for 12 hours, and then boil (covered) for 15-20 minutes. Strain. Let cool and store in fridge.

I like adding a small amount of xanthan gum to thicken it up.

Lemon Ginger Tea (Herbal Information/Cold Remedy)

With the cold season coming on, I thought I'd post my favorite cold remedy tea: Lemon Ginger tea. Lemon is antiviral and antibacterial, and ginger is also good for colds and flu. If you add honey, it is good for soothing throats too. (Unfortunately I can not eat honey anymore; but I still love the taste without it--most people don't, LOL!)

Lemon Ginger tea

Boil some water and add some fresh ginger root (a few slices) and simmer for at least 15 minutes (with the cover on). Take it off the heat, add a few slices of fresh lemon and let steep (with the cover on) for at least 20 minutes. Add honey and drink hot (it should still be hot, if you kept the cover on, if not, just bring it to a boil again).

Questions On Various Natural Cosmetic Ingredients (Natural Skin Care)

Random FAQ from a few weeks ago.

What carrier oils are good for my skin type?

Check out my blog entry on Carrier oils and skin type (I actually need to edit this list, as I've just received several new oils!)

What liquid cleanser can I use on my face?

You can use plain castille liquid soap, which is an olive oil based soap. Many natural companies such as Aubrey Organics and Terressentials (see links) also make nice soap based cleansers. I've been using soapwort as a cleanser recently.

My shea butter is so grainy. Is there a way to fix this?

After you melt in your hands, apply only a small amount to really, really damp skin.

I haven't tried this (I haven't had a problem with my shea being grainy) but I've read you can melt all of your shea in a double broiler over very, very low for at least 15 to 20 minutes, and then let it cool quickly, like in the fridge or freezer; cooling it down fast prevents crystals from forming.

Next time, you can also try east shea (a subspecies), which is softer/creamier and very easy to spread.


Which butter is better? Shea, cocoa, or mango butter?

Depends on your skin type. I love shea the most, which is helpful for my dehydrated skin which can get dry and blemished. While shea can be used by most skin types (except maybe the very oily), cocoa butter is better for dry skin, though some people with normal, dehydrated, and combination skin can also use it. Cocoa butter probably needs to melted and mixed a carrier oil before use, or you can just melt a little in the palm of your hand. I like both shea and cocoa butter in creams. Haven't tried mango yet, but intend to soon.

What is whipped shea?

It is basically when you whip shea, like whipped dairy butter! I plan on making this soon.

How do I make my own perfumes? What can I use to make perfumes? Is there a rose scented oil?

I've posted about natural perfumes concentrations and miy and where to buy and more notes and resources. You can make one with rose essential oil (aka rose attar) or rose absolute. Dilute in a carrier like vodka, perfumer's alcohol or jojoba. Rose attar is one of the most expensive essential oils ($1-2 a drop) but so worth it, the absolute is less expensive and some people prefer the smell of the absolute over rose attar. I love rose attar, it's one of my favorites. Though expensive you don't use that much essential oil and it ends up being much cheaper than commerical perfumes once you dilute it. And it smells way more heavenly than the commerical brands.

Insect Repellents on Animals (Aromatherapy)

Meant to post this a while back.

Can I use essential oils on pets for fleas, mosquitos etc?

There are many essential oils that are effective moisquito repellents for use on humans, but I don't know too much about what essential oils are safe to use on dogs (some essential oils that are used on humans are very toxic on other animals). I haven't researched this too much, since I'm a cat person and essential oils are toxic to cats. Some are fine to use on dogs.

There is one book which is supposed to be the best source for essential oils on animals called Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals by Kristen Leigh Bell (who is incidentally the owner of the mineral makeup company Aromaleigh--I am so sad they moved away from being all natural so i don't use their products any longer. Anyways...)

There is another book called "Veterinary Aromatherapy" but Aromaweb (an aromatherapy website) cautions about some of the advice in this book.

I do not have these books yet, but I suggest getting the one by Bell since she is considered the expert in aromatherapy for animals.

Worwood's complete book of aromatherapy also has some info on use on animals, but since it was written in 1995, and she recommends using essential oils on cats which has since been shown to be toxic, the info from that book is dated for animals (though it is considered one of the aromatherapy bibles for humans)

Be sure to dilute the essential oils well (probably only at the 1/2 to 1% concentration or less; remember: less is better!) or consider using hydrosols, which are much more gentle.

It would probably be better to use essential oils on a collar rather than on the fur so your dog can't lick it off.

Vermont soap sells dog shampoo, and Aubrey Organics has dog shampoo, a dip for fleas, and a spray. You can look at the ingredients to get an idea of what you can use. (For cat lovers reading this, please don't use these products on cats. Use plain castille soap to wash kitty if it is absolutely necessary).

Essential oil storage, shelf life, old oils, and also use in pregnancy (Aromatherapy)

What is the shelf life of essential oils?

Depends on the essential oil. Citrus oils have the shortest shelf life of about 6 months to a year, so be sure to buy from a reputable dealer which has a high turnover rate. For citrus essential oils I highly recommend not buying them in a store (unless it is a store like Enfluerage) but rather an online essential oil dealer, since essential oils in a store may have been sitting there for a while. Most essential oils will last anywhere from 1 to 2 years, some people say they are good for up to four years, with a slight loss of quality. I tend to agree with the 1-2 year opinion, because I have a couple essential oils that are pushing 2 years, and the smell has changed. If you aren't using them often, be sure to refrigerate them, which will extend the shelf life, as much as twice as long. A few essential oils, such as vertivert, frankinscene etc (most of the resinous or heartwood ones) may have a shelf life of several years.

What is the best way to store essential oils?

The best way is to refrigerate them and make sure that there is no space in the bottles so there is no room for air in the bottles (which causes degradation). If they are in the fridge, it won't matter if the glass is clear. But if you store them elsewhere, it is better to have colored glass. If you can't store them all in the fridge than any cool, dark (but not damp/humid) place will work great! Do not store them in the bathroom--too humid. I personally don't store my essential oils in the fridge but I generally use them within a year or two (or less, especially like citrus essential oils).


What do I do with old oils?

I think either a lot of people use or just throw away old oils (moaning and complaining of course since some of them are quite pricey). Though I wouldn't use old essential oils for cosmetic or medicinal uses (old essential oils may undergo some chemical changes and lose their cosmetic/medicinal properties) there is no reason why you can't use them to scent your clothes (place a few drops on a cotton ball), letters, ink etc.


Can I use essential oils during pregnancy?

I'm not an expert in this (since I've never been pregnant) but I have read some about the topic. Generally a lot of aromatherapy authors have stated that essential oils should be used at lower concentrations (1/2 to 1%) and list only a few that can be used during this time, and many should be avoided. Different authors have different lists, but most of the lists of essential oils ok to use include some of the citrus peel oils (like mandarin or tangerine) or lavender (depends on the species; recommended is L. angustofolia. You probably shouldn't use Lavendula latifolia aka spike lavender since that is high in camphor; all camphor rich oils should be avoided). But there seems to be conflict with many authors lists from what I've seen. Like several authors list chamomile and rose as okay to use, but then another listed it to be used with caution during pregnancy (though it can be used). Geranium has been cited by many authors as safe to use; but that never made since to me since geranium can have hormone-like activity. (Tisserand and Balacs listed both chamomiles, rose, and geranium as safe to use, and I generally trust their suggestions since they have conducted a lot of scientific tests on the essential oils; though their book is from 2000 so may be a little dated)

More on Natural Perfume Making and Essential Oil Concentrations/Diluting Essential Oils (Aromatherapy)

I'm allergic to many synthetics which is why I switched to all natural products about 6 years back. Most commerical perfumes are made with hundreds of chemical components, and only a small amount of pure essential oil.

I've previously blogged about perfume concentrations and how to miy and where to buy perfume but I decided to post some more information.

How do I dilute essential oils to 1%, 2%, etc concentration?

To make a 1% essential oil concentration, add 6 drops of an essential oil (or essential oil blend) in 1 ounce of carrier. To make a 2% concentration, add 12 drops of essential oils in 1 ounce. There are 300-600 drops of liquid in an ounce, so you can calculate the rest.

Note: Never use more than a 2% concentration in a massage oil/body oil/cream/serum etc (most products). So whether you use one essential oil or twenty essential oils, don't use more than 12 drops total. The only exception is perfume, in which you would use up to a 30% concentration (the reason why such a high concentration is okay in perfumes is because you'd only use a couple drops of the product versus a teaspoon or more of the lotion etc. So the actual essential oil concentration you put on your skin is fairly low). And never apply essential oils neat to the skin (though some books say you can apply lavender and tea tree neat, this is only during emergencies like insect bites and only like a drop once or twice.) Always dilute for daily use.(When I hear that people apply large amounts of essential oils neat to their skin, I cringe because there have been some reports of fatal toxicity of certain essential oils in large amounts (around a teaspoon)).

What are top, middle, and base notes? And what are the best aromatherapy perfume making books?

A lot of basic aromatherapy texts explain top, middle, and base notes. But the best aromatherapy book I've found that focuses on perfume is Mindy Green's "The Natural Perfume Book". It is a small book but it gives a good overview on perfume making and also contains over 30 recipes; but it is out of print and when you can find it online, it is expensive; so try used book stores or try to request it through your local library. Mindy Green's and Kathi Keville's Aromatherapy: A complete guide to the healing art has a small section discussing perfume making (but only contains a few recipes), and is also a good overall aromatherapy primer. Mandy Aftel's book Essence and Alchemy is considered one of the best, and I think it gives a good overview on the history and also components of natural perfumes, however it hardly contains any recipes (just like 3 or 4). Nancy Booth's Perfumes, splashes, and colonges also has very good background info, however she includes fragrance oils along with essential oils in her recipes. i think it's a good reference but I don't use FOs so I found Green's book to be much more helpful. I've also heard that Chrissie Wildwood's Create Your Own Aromatherapy Perfumes: Enchanting Blends for Body and Home (2nd edition) is fantastic but it is out of print too and I haven't been able to get my hands on an inexpensive copy yet.

See my links for other aromatherapy books and online resources. I highly recommend getting at least three good aromatherapy primers in addition to the books above.