Friday, June 30, 2006

More on Scrubs and Masks; MIY Honey Scrubs and Masks Recipes (Natural Skin Care)

I've blogged about miy scrubs (brown sugar, white sugar, and salt) and masks (herbal and clay) before, but I thought I'd post some more information!

In addition to using brown sugar, white sugar, and salt to make scrubs, you can also use ingredients like ground almonds, ground oatmeal, finely ground herbs (use leaves and flowers, and none of the harder parts of plants), and cornmeal--though I prefer using sugar and salt since they melt and don't leave a mess in the bath tub! I know some ladies also like using baking soda too. A few skin care books recommend (dried) crushed avocado pits! I haven't tried this yet, but I've been saving avocado pits and am going to try this soon! However, I suggest only using sugar, almond, oatmeal, and herbs in a facial scrub, and not the grittier substances (like avocado pit, salt, and cornmeal) since they may be too harsh for the facial skin. For a great body scrub, some people even use coffee grinds!

Add oils to any of these bases, or honey, aloe, hydrosol, herbal infusion, etc. I prefer using lighter oils like kukui, camellia, grapeseed, or maybe jojoba. Or you can use oils specific for your skin type, or any of the other ingredients I've listed in my miy mask entry. Note: if you make a scrub with just sugar/salt and oil, it will have a longer shelf life (months; no need to refrigerate) than a scrub or mask made with water-based or perishable ingredients (be sure to store in the fridge and use within a few days).

All of the following recipes have honey in them, though I've included vegan substitutes too. I don't know why I've got honey on the mind--maybe because I don't eat it anymore, and only use it for skin care now and then. It leaves the skin very soft and healthy looking.



The following scrub is gentle enough for the facial skin, and is very easy to make. It may feel a bit sticky going on, but it rinses cleanly away and will leave your skin glowing.

MIY oatmeal, almond, honey scrub

Finely grind equal amounts of oatmeal and almonds in either a food processor or with a mortar and pestle. Add enough honey to make a paste. Add 1-2 drops of essential oil if desired. I don't really measure my ingredients but I like using about 1 tablespoon each of oatmeal and almonds, 1 tablespoon of honey, and a couple drops of lavender essential oil, but you may want to use more or less. Don't use more than a few drops of essential oil though, since they are highly concentrated substances, and too much may irritate your skin. Store in the fridge.

For a vegan version use aloe or a carrier oil in place of the honey.



This mask is great for really dry skin. Great for the face and body, and also the hair!

MIY Avocado mask

1/2 mashed avocado
1-2 Tablespoons honey

Mix well (make sure there are no lumps). Apply and leave on for at least 15 minutes. I recommend trying to use this all at once but if you have excess, store it in the fridge, with plastic wrap pressed on the surface.

For a vegan version, you can omit the honey. If the texture is a bit thick, add aloe, hydrosol, or maybe a little almond or soy milk.



Honey will absorb toxins and leave your skin feeling soft. You can use honey to cleanse your skin daily.

MIY Easy Honey mask

1-2 teaspoons Honey
Optional: 1-2 drops of essential oil

Pat the honey onto damp skin (it may feel sticky, but rinses right off). Leave on for 10-15 minutes.
Vegan version: try a clay mask to absorb toxics.

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Difference Between Body Butter, Balm, Salve, Ointment, Liniment, Tincture, Infused Oil, Infused Vinegar, Lotion, Cream (Natural Skin Care/Medicine)

FAQ

What is difference Between Body Butters, Balms, Salves, Ointments, Liniments, Tinctures, Herbal Infused Oils, Herbal Infused Vinegars, Lotions and Creams?


Body butters are usually made with a combination of carrier oil (liquid fats) and butters (like cocoa butter, etc. So solid fats) and often a wax (like beeswax). It does not contain water. It is a thicker and harder product than a lotion or cream (though it melts on the skin on contact), and often takes longer to absorb. It may also leave a slightly oily barrier on the skin for several minutes to a few hours, depending on the types of oils used and skin type.

Butters also refer to just the butters/solid fats themselves, such as cocoa, shea, mango, or kukui butter. They vary in texture and hardness, and absorbancy; some may leave a slight oily barrier on the skin, and others may absorb instantly.

A balm or salve is similiar to a body butter except it may or may not have butters in it, and body butters contain a higher percentage of butters than balms or salves. Balms and salves are made with carrier oil and a wax, and sometimes solid fats/butters. They do not contain water. As to the difference between a balm and a salve, it depends who you ask. Most herbalists, aromatherapists, and skin care authors mention that there is no difference. From looking at products on the market, I always thought salves were usually made with herb infused oils (see below for definition), while balms were made with either infused or non-infused carrier oils, and may contain essential oils. Looking at recipes though, there is little difference between the two, and as to what each product is called, it depends on the herbalist/author/crafter! I swear I once read somewhere that there was a difference but I can't seem to find it now!

Many authors also say that balms or salves are essentially the same as an ointment. For some reason I can't fathom, I always thought that ointments were made with the same ingredients but that they were thinner/softer in texture since they usually contained less wax. But all of my sources mention they are the same thing, so I just must have been thinking of something else!

I've found several different definitions on what a liniment is. They are made for external application for the skin, to soothe or disinfect. Basically you infuse herbs in a solvent. The difference in opinion that I've seen is what kind of solvent. One source said that the solvent is witch hazel or rubbing alcohol, while another said it is a carrier oil (and made it a point to mention that a liniment did not contain wax like a salve). Another book had a bunch of different recipes that included solvents or thickeners such as wax, oil, alcohol, or cider vinegar. I guess the true definition is any infused herbal solvent for external/skin usage!

A tincture is basically when you infuse herbs in alcohol or glycerin. Some books also mention cider vinger, though most tend to think of infused vinegar as a totally different product. A tincture is for internal use, but you can use it for external use too. Tinctures are a highly concentrated product. Many herbalists prefer using tinctures, as they have a longer shelf life than fresh or dried herbs, and they utilize less shelf space.

An herbal infused vinegar is herbs infused in vinegar, usually apple cider vinegar, and occasionally red wine vinegar. There are many cosmetic, medicinal, as well as food uses of infused vinegars.

Herbal infused oils are herbs infused in a carrier oil, such as olive or other carrier oils appropriate for your skin type. There are many cosmetic, medicinal, and food uses.

You can also make herbal vinegars and herbal oils by adding a few drops of essential oils. While these can be used for cosmetic purposes, they are not recommended for consumption, since essential oils are very concentrated plant substances. Herbal oils make awesome aromatherapy body, bath, and massage oils.

Lastly, all natural body lotions or creams are made with oils and waters (water, aloe, hydrosol, herbal infusion, etc) and also either a wax (like beeswax), thickener (like xanthan gum), and/or other emulsifier (like borax). It can have butters/solid fats in it, but not always. Lotions and creams are thinner, and 'runnier' than body butters. Lotions are thinner than creams, as they contain a higher percentage of water than creams.


Which is better to use for cosmetic purposes; which is more moisturizing or less greasy?

As to which is better, it depends on your skin type. Since lotions and creams contain water, if your skin is really dehydrated, they would be better. Lotions are also good for oily skin. Creams are better for drier skin.

Since butters, balms, and ointments are thicker, and may stay on top of your skin longer (preventing moisture lost), they are also good for dry skin (though if your skin is really dry, be sure to apply to really damp skin). Many people like to use them on really dry areas like lips, elbows, knees, and feet.

Infused oils are great to use on just freshly cleaned, damp skin, and are awesome to use during massages (or you can use an aromatherapy body oil). They also make a fantastic hot oil treatment for your hair.

The only thing that really moisturizes skin is water (or things that contain a lot of water like hydrosols, aloe, herbal infusions etc), so if your skin is really dry apply your chosen product to damp skin or choose a product with a high water content in it. Oils and butters work by lubricating and softening the skin and preventing moisture loss by forming a barrier on the skin. And (unlike mienral oil) they contain a lot of vitamins and nutrients that are great for your skin!

Infused vinegars, diluted with water or hydrosol, are great to use as toners, and as hair rinses. Really dry skin types may want to use just plain hydrosols, as vinegars can be drying.

Monday, June 19, 2006

Cosmetic Safety (Natural Skin Care)

Be careful what you put on your skin! Not all ingredients used in cosmetics are safe. Federal laws on cosmetic (by cosmetics I mean all kinds of personal body and hair care, as well as makeup) ingredients are rather lax, and they do not mandate safety studies on cosmetics. Some of the chemicals used in cosmetics have been linked to higher increases in cancer and many can cause skin irritations.

Four good websites on the issue are:

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics which contains many news articles and some reports on the subject, as well as a list of companies that have pleged not to use to use toxic materials in cosmetics.

Environmental Working Group has compiled a good database on ranking the safeness of thousands of different brands and ingredients of personal care products.

Though focusing primarily on organic cosmetics, Organic Consumer Association has dozens of news articles on organic/natural vs. synthetic ingredients used in cosmetics. I love this website--it's really eye opening, there is a lot of information on the tricks some companies use to try to fool the public into thinking their products are natural and organic. They have a lot of information on their site on all thing organic, not just body care!

This last website, which one of the regular posters on craigslist's alternative health and medicine posted (thanks CT!), is simply awesome. The "Guide to Less Toxic Products" is from the Environmental Health Association of Nova Scotia. As much as I love Environmental Working Group's database, not all of their safe cosmetic suggestions are all natural. Many on this guide are all natural, though some of their choices may contain some synthetics, but the products are pretty natural (Okay! so I am anal in where everything has to be all natural. My only bane, and vice, being toothpaste! More on that later!)

Friday, June 16, 2006

Drugstore Mineral Makeup Hype (Mineral Makeup)

When I first heard that many conventional companies were going to make mineral makeup, I was excited since sometimes it is a hassle buying products online. However, I do not recommend most of the drugstore brands, like Physician's Formula, Loreal, and Neutrogena, because they contain many synthetic chemicals and additives; they are not like true mineral makeup brands which only contain pure minerals and pigments (like mica/serecite,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and iron oxides). These brands are at best a cross between conventional and true mineral makeup, and at worse, just marketing hype and companies jumping on the mineral makeup bandwagon. From looking at the ingredients of these brands, I wonder if they even understood what mineral makeup was when they were developing their product??

There are many good mineral makeup companies from large, well known (and rather expensive brands) such as Bare Escentuals, to smaller, women owned companies, and less expensive brands like Monave, Jlynne Cosmetics, Cory Cosmetics, Alima, and Ada Cosmetics. Most of the smaller lines sell samples. My favorites, as I've mentioned many times on this blog are Monave and Jlynne Cosmetics. (I actually haven't tried the more expensive brand for two reasons: some of them contain bismuth, which irritates many people, and they are way over priced in my opinion!)

Monday, June 12, 2006

Storage and shelf life of Aromatherapy Products and Essential Oils (Aromatherapy)

Some FAQs

What is the best way to store aromatherapy products (product that contain essential oils)? Are plastic containers suitable?


For temporary storage of aromatherapy products, I think that using plastic would be okay. But like many aromatherapists, I recommend storing aromatherapy products in dark colored glass for long term storage, because essential oils are light sensitive (they degrade when exposed to light), and many essential oils are mild solvents (they eventually eat through plastic). Also, over time (since the essential oils cause the plastic to break down) the plastic may release toxins into the products.

What is the shelf life of aromatherapy products?

It depends on the formulation! Products with essential oils should last at least a couple months, and those with other natural preservatives could last up to a year. However, if you constantly stick dirty fingers into your product, leaving the cap undone, or storing your products in the bathroom (a humid area) etc, it will obviously have a shorter shelf life! You can extend the shelf life of any product by storing in the fridge.


What is the best way to store pure (undiluted) essential oils (PEOs)?

Store your PEOs in a cool, dark area. I store mine in a wooden box, away from humidity. PLEASE do not store your essential oils in your bathroom!. It is suggested by many aromatherapists that as you use up your essential oils, to pour them into smaller bottles, so that there is less room for air (oxygen degrades the oils) in the container. Some also suggest storage in the fridge. Also I do not recommend storing essential oils with rubber stopper droppers, since they will eventual eat through the rubber (which will led to toxins in the essential oils). In addition, try not to leave them uncapped for long periods of time.


What is the shelf life of essential oils?


It depends on the essential oil! Citrus oils generally have a shorter shelf life (like 6 months, or less than a year), and most have a shelf life of 1 to 2 years, and may be good up to 3 to 4 years, with a slight decline in quality. However, some essential oils, if you store them probably develop over time. These are like the heavier oils such as patcholli and sandalwood. Some like sandalwood age well (sandalwood that is YEARS old is supposed to smell divine).

When an essential oil 'goes bad' it doesn't smell bad, it just smells less vibrant. But don't toss it out! I wouldn't use them for therapeutic or antibacterial properties, but you can still use them to scent a room, or objects like paper, clothing, etc. Apply on a cottonball near the object you want to scent, or make a room spray.

Sunday, June 11, 2006

All Natural Perfume (Aromatherapy)

One of the reasons I switched to all natural products a few years ago was because of my sensitivity to synthetic scents and chemicals. I used to love all kinds of scents--from air freshener to conventional perfume to 'fruity and herbal' lotions, but that soon changed. In 2001 I began working at perfume counter, and after being around all those scents all day for a few months, my skin became increasingly sensitive. I began to get rashes from products I had been using for years, and my facial skin would get these tiny red itchy puffy bumps that would only go away if I used aloe. It was about that time that I began researching what goes into cosmetics, and then switching to all natural products. In my research I learned that conventional perfumes contain hundred of synthetic chemicals and only a small percentage of real essential oil (often less than 3%). I think my exposure to all those chemicals for a few months (before I quit) made my sensitive skin even more reactive, but I'm kind of glad that happened because I've learned so much about skin care and natural cosmetics, and I'm never going back!
Through my experiences of aromatherapy I've come to appreciate the scent of REAL flowers and herbs. Now that I've smelled real jasmine and rose, I can not stand the smell of their fake, chemically counterparts. I used to love things like Bath and Body lotions, and now I can't stand the smell of anything synthetic!

There are many natural companies that make some really nice scents. Some scents, like 'apples', 'grapes' etc obviously are only available as synthetics, and others, such as a true gardenia scent is hard to find and rarely available (gardenia essential oil is hard to find and also pricey, but infused gardenia oil is easy to make). However, for hard to find scents, sometimes several essential oils can be combined to create scents like 'lily of the valley'. It should be noted that perfumes made with essential oils do not last as long as their synthetic counterparts (so you won't smell like your perfume for days) and throughout the hours the scent will develop as lighter essential oils disappear (top notes, and then middle) and the heavier notes (middle and base notes) are left behind. They are usually available in an alchohol and water base or a carrier oil base.


Aubrey Organics just revamped their line of fragrances. They now offer six all natural and organic perfumes, made with essential oils.

You can also buy a lot of lovely blends from aromatherapy companies like Nature's Gift and Mountain Rose Herbs. MRH sells things like spiritual blends and NG sells a couple blends and perfumer's kits (essential oils in jojoba oil). Both have excellent prices.

True Aroma makes several nice blends, you can find them at Cosmetics without Synthetics' (allnaturalcosmetics) website, which also sells many other all natural (or nearly all natural) cosmetics.

Well known aromatherapist, Alexandra Avery, also offers several perfume blends on her site (inexpensive), and she will also make a personal aromatherapy perfume for you (kind of pricey but probably worth it). She also sells a wonderful line of all natural skin care.

Aromatherapist Kendra Grace also sells some perfumes, along with her aromajewels. (They are kind of pricey though, but she is supposed to be an aromatherapist perfumer)

Or, of course, you can MIY! It is not only less expensive but you can unleash your creative spirit!
Simply add essential oils to either a base of jojoba oil or alcohol (everclear) anywhere from a 10% to 30% concentration. Perfume concentration ratios to make eau de toillete, parfum etc are here.
I brought MRH's rose essential oil sampler, and made a perfume of of the essential oils. The rose oil sampler contains Rosa damascena (same species) from three different regions, and they all smell different! Blended togther they are absolutely divine.


If you would rather have a spray then dilute the essential oils in alcohol, then add 3-12 drops of essential oils per ounce (12 drops will make a 2% concentration).

Or you can infuse fresh plant matter in jojoba oil or another carrier oil (you can try this with gardenias and lilies since it may be hard to find those blends). I suggest jojoba since it doesn't become rancid, but if you want to use another carrier, be sure to choose a lightly scented oil, and add either vitamin E or grapefruit seed oil to perserve its shelf life. The essential oils will also preserve it to some extend. You can also make an infused oil, if the essential oil isn't available or pricey. Be sure to use fresh and, if possible, organic flowers and herbs.

You can buy essential oils and jojoba oil at Whole Foods or at MRH, NG, or at Garden of Wisdom.

Saturday, June 03, 2006

Clay and Herbal Masks (Natural Skin Care)

Making your own skin products is addicitive!

For clay masks, I like using rhaussoul clay (good for all skin types including drier skin) or green clay (normal to oily). Other good clays: kaolin (a gentle white clay from China) and Bentonite, a soft but very drawing clay (draws/binds toxins).

There are a lot of ingredients you can add to clay masks. Add any of the ingredients, depending on what kind of mask you want. I don't really measure but just add a small amount of each ingredient. I make it fresh each time but you could store it in the fridge for a few days (be sure to add vitamin E, grapefruit seed oil, or essential oils to help prolonge self life).

-hydrosols, aloe, herbal infusions (tea)-basically to wet the mask and also add moisture and nutrients
-honey-helps pull out toxics, and softens skin
-egg-pulls out toxins, softens skin. If you use the egg yolk it add moisture (for dry skin), and the white part for oily skin. I like using the whole egg.
-mashed fruit or juice: the natural acids helps exfoliate dead skin cells, and also moisturize skin. Not for sensitive skin. Fruits that you can use stawberries, tomatoes (oily skin), bananas (moisturizing), avocado (moisturizing)
-mashed veggie or juice: carrot (good for all skin types esp. dry), cucumbers (soothing and moisturizing, good for puffiness)
-milk/cream--cleanser and also softener.
-witch hazel--astringent. Better for oily and normal skins (dry skins add hydrosols, aloe, and herbal infusions)
-yogurt-cleanser and softener. good for all skin types
-carrier/base oil--to seal in moisture and add vitamins.
-1 to 2 drops of essential oil--for fragrance and for specific skin conditions

If you want an exfoliating clay mask add:
-oatmeal--good for sensitive skin
-almond--good for all skin types
-brown or white sugar
-baking soda

I do not recommend using salt on your face (too gritty, though salt makes a great body scrub) or aspirin (I know a lot of beauty mags and ladies rant about the effectiveness of aspirin masks, but considering the skin is very absorbant, I am wondering if any of the chemical components of aspirin can reach the blood stream through the skin. I have not read much about the topic, but I believe it is better to be safe than sorry, especially when there are other just as effective exfoliants).

For an herbal mask (without clay) you can use a base of either honey, yogurt, egg, fruit, or one of the exfoliants, and add any of the other ingredients. Let your imagination run wild!

Monday, May 22, 2006

Enfleurage and more NYC (Aromatherapy retail/online shop)

Well, we didn't win a free laptop at the Apple Store but we did get several free t-shirts.

Today we went to Enfleurage, an aromatherapy shop on Bleecker Street. Enfleurage has been cited in several aromatherapy books for its high quality essential oils and variety. I had wanted to go for a while, but could never remember that I did whenever I came to the city. It's a small shop (like most NYC shops) but they had so many essential oils that I hadn't tried before! For some plants they had several types of essential oils extracted from different methods like the distilled, pressed, absolute, or CO2 (for example: they had both the expressed and distilled lime). And for some, they had essential oils from several species (like two species of Jasmine) or essential oils grown in different areas (like Rosemary grown in three different places). Sometimes I hate buying essential oils online since you can't smell them, so I finally got to smell many of the more unusual ones before buying. They also have some organic oils; I brought a few and they smell wonderful :). They also sell a small selection of books, herbs, incense, diffusers, candles, and soap (not all items are online).

Friday, May 19, 2006

New Apple Store in NY

Right now I am at the new Apple Store in New York City, located at 767 Fifth Avenue. My sister and Ed came down to N. Va yesterday night, and then we left N. Va at 6 am in the morning, made a stop in Philly, and then got to New York and after a quick break, left for the Apple Store. We arrived about 2:30pm, and there were only about 75-100 people ahead of us in line!! We waited in line until 6 pm (when it started) braving the intense thunderstorms--we got soaked but luckily had umbellas. The store is beautiful--outside it looks like a cube, with the Apple symbol (no written sign), and the store is all underground (downstairs). It is supposed to be Apple's first 24/7 store--pretty kewl! There are a lot of famous people here; we saw Steve Jobs, Kevin Bacon, James Woods, Julianne Moore, Elizabeth Berkeley, the cast of Saturday Night Live.

We all got free t-shirts, and also there are drawings every hour for the next 24 hours to win a free laptop. I hope we win something! I also got accessories for my ipod nano.

I am tired, and my jeans are still soaked, but damn it, it's Apple, and I'm with my family and it is totally worth it!!!! :)


More later!!

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Mineral Makeup Liquid Foundation and Tinted Moisturizer (Mineral Makeup/Vegan suggestions)

Some days I prefer a liquid foundation or a tinted moisturizer to my mineral makeup (powder) foundation. And other days I like a bit of heavier concealing around my eyes (on those days I look like a night owl), but find that many of the mineral makeup (powder) concealer foundations to be too chalky and heavy for use around my eyes, and the regular formulations to not cover dark circles enough either.

Only a few mineral makeup companies actually make liquid mineral makeup foundation. But it's also real easy to make your own too! I've also included info on if it's vegan, veggie, or not.

I love Monave. They make both a cream foundation and a liquid matte foundation. It is 100% natural. The liquid matte foundation is vegan, the cream foundation is not. They also have a lot of creams in which you can add (powder) mineral makeup to. They do not test on animals. Most of their products are vegan (including many of their lippies). You can buy samples. Full range of foundation colors and mineral makeup.

The Organic Makeup Company in Canada also makes a vegan mineral foundation. Despite being in Canada, the prices are good and shipping is ok. If I am not mistaken they are a completely vegan company. They make 100% natural and organic products. I have not tried them, but they are apparantly a favorite of many ladies on the forums I visit.

Mieessence is a natural and organic company from Australia. As far as I know only their shampoo and some body washes contain 1 synthetic ingredient, but the rest of their products are completely natural. They have liquid mineral foundation but I haven't tried it yet, and compared to the other brands listed here, it is a bit pricey. I have tried their creams and love them though. The liquid foundation is vegan but their concealer contains beeswax but is veggie. Their makeup only comes in a few colors.

Burt's Bees makes a tinted moisturizer that I used to love, but I stopped using it once I discovered what carmine (a colorant from crushed beetles) was a couple years ago. I used to like it because I used this as my facial moisturizer too. Their makeup only comes in a few colors.

How to MIY:

If you like mineral makeup but prefer a tinted moisturizer, liquid foundation, or thick creamy concealer, just add a small amount of mineral makeup to your favorite cream, lotion, or aloe vera. Depending on how much mineral makeup you add, you can create anything from a light tinted moisturizer to a heavier product.

Saturday, May 06, 2006

Aloe Facial Cleansing Gel (Natural Skin care)

I realize I haven't posted in a while (sorry; in the middle of end of the semester projects and finals!) so here is a quick post on using aloe as a cleanser. I'll try to post more regularly in the summer!


Though aloe is most often used in toners, lotions, and creams, I also occasionally use aloe as a gentle morning cleanser. It effective cleanses and refreshes the skin, providing moisture without stripping the skin of its natural oils. It's better for skin that doesn't need deep cleaning or makeup removal, hence why I recommend using it in the morning rather than at night. (I recommend washing your skin with soap or a liquid or cream or oil cleanser, depending on your skin type, for your nightly routine).

You can use it as is, or mix it with hydrosol, a small amount of oil or glycerin, and also a few drops of essential oil to make a fantastic aromatherapy cleanser. If your skin is oily, you can also add a tiny bit of apple cider vinegar or witch hazel. Apply with a cotton pad or ball. I love this light cleanser since it is so soothing and infuses my dehydrated skin with moisture! And best of all, it also doubles as a toner, saving me an extra step!

Monday, April 10, 2006

Magical Aromatherapy by S. Cunningham (Aromatherapy book review)

One thing that frustrates me when I'm trying to book shop on the internet is that it's sometimes hard to tell how good of a resource a book is or not. Looking at Amazon's site helps, since they offer 'sneak peaks' into many of their online books, but sometimes those peaks aren't enough. Reading the reviews also helps, but most of the time the positive reviews don't tell me much otherwise than the fact that someone enjoyed it (the 'bad' reviews often tell me much more!). So I'm going to start posting about aromatherapy/natural skin care/natural household/herbalism etc book reviews. I've done a few "mini" aromatherapy/miy book reviews in the past, but I'll be sure to blog about each book in depth! I have 30-40 or so books in my collection so it's probably going to take me a while to get through all of them, especially since I plan to keep blogging about other things too! :)


"Magical Aromatherapy" by Scott Cunningham:

This was one of the first aromatherapy books I got, and I still use and love it. Aside from the usual well-known uses of aromatherapy (skin care and medicinal/psychological), another use of aromatherapy is the use of natural fragrances (essential oils) in spiritual matters. Though I've read other aromatherapy and herbal books that provide some information about spiritual uses of essential oils and herbs, I haven't found another book quite like this one. This one, first of all was written by a well known pagan/wiccan (who has since passed) who truly knew and understood herbal lore and ritual uses of plants--but even if you aren't pagan or wiccan don't let that stop you from getting this book! Cunningham was well known for writing for all audiences, so whether you are Christian or Taoist, or are just interested in crafting things such oil blends to wear during meditation or personal growth rituals, this book can be used by people of all faiths to incorporate in their own belief systems. It is not geared towards any one specific religion or belief system.

Chapter 1 begins with a few of Cunningham's thoughts on the subject of aromatherapy and magic. He defines magic as 'the movement of subtle natural energies to manifest needed change' (p. 5), in this case, basically using the scent of plants with visualization to bring change. His concept of magic is similar to what other personal and spiritual growth authors have also described as visualization, and also similar to meditation or prayers used in religion.

In Chapter 2 he describes the use of natural fragrance for spiritual matters in cultures throughout the world. Some of the cultures he describes are the Egyptians, Native Americans, and the Greek and Romans. I think this chapter is very fascinating but it is it way too short! Though he describes some cultures in depth, he only briefly mentions (in a single sentence) that scent has also been used in other places such as Asia and Africa, but doesn't go into detail about any of those cultures.

Chapter 3 briefly lists fresh and dried plants that you may want to grow. Very short chapter that basically lists which herbs are better used as fresh versus dried.

Chapter 4 is about essential oils. While this chapter is also short, it is full of useful information. He describes the difference between synthetic versus natural essential oils in an easy to understand manner, and the importance of using natural essential oils instead of synthetic. There is also a comparative chart of essential oil prices. Though this book was written in 1993, with the exception of a few oils, this very useful chart is still pretty accurate in terms of prices for essential oils.

Chapter 5 is on methods and techniques. He lists several inhalation techniques and describes examples of how visualization can be used. On the usage of essential oils he gives a lot of good suggestions on inhalation techniques (like placing a drop on a cotton ball or using it in a bath) but I much prefer using essential oils in a base oil (which he doesn't describe in this chapter but does in another chapter). Basically his message is to breathe in the scent and he doesn't give any elaborate rituals on how to use the fresh herbs or plants or essential oils. On one hand this is an advantage because then the user can the information in the book to cater it to their own beliefs. On the other hand if you are a beginner you may want to check out another book that describes visualization, meditation, or religious rituals more in depth.

Part 2 is titled "the aromas". This is the bulk and most important part of the book. He lists the common and Latin names, parts used (fresh, dried, essential oil, or specific part of plant), ruling planet and ruling element (western elements), magical influences (what the scent acts upon, for example: healing, love, wisdom, etc), and lore (historical, ritual, and magical uses of plants), for over 100 plants! I love this section especially the lore sections! The herbs are listed in alphabetical order, making them easy to find.

Part 3 consists of tables. The first table is a table on herbs used for specific magical/spiritual matters. For example, under herbs to use "for courage", herbs such as black pepper, clove, fennel, ginger, onion, sweet pea, thyme, and yarrow are suggested. Other lists include aromas of the days, seasons, lunar cycles, those associated with crystals, elements, planets, and the zodiac. After checking out the lists, you can read about the herbs more in depth in Part 2. In this section he also describes how to make a basic aromatherapy base oil, lists six examples of blends (including healing, spiritual, and protection blends), and lists generally true and generally synthetic essential oils, and hazardous essential oils. There are also appendixes and a short glossary, and a good bibliography.
I found these lists very useful, since I don't have to aimlessly flip through part 2 first to figure out which herbs to use. The instructions on making base oils were very simple but clear. I love the examples of blends he suggested, but as I mentioned this book is more of a reference to make your own blends, rather than using the author's "recipes". I actually prefer this, since I may not have all the oils listed in the recipes, but I may have adequate different herbs or oils listed on the lists that I can use to make a blend that caters my own needs.
The true and generally synthetic essential oil lists are still pretty accurate with the following exceptions: he says that true coconut oil has no coconutty smell. This is only partially true; if coconut oil is refined, it has no smell, but extra virgin, unrefined coconut oil does smell coconutty. I think he was comparing artificial coconut scent with refined coconut oil (fatty oil NOT essential oil. To my knowledge there is no coconut essential oil). He lists frankincense as often imitated; while this may be true, if you buy from any reputable supplier, it shouldn't be a problem obtaining genuine frankincense. He mentioned an absolute of honey is produced but not available to the public. Currently, it is now available to the public but it is extremely hard to find. He also mentions mimosa is unavailable, but it has recently been made available but it is very difficult to find too. Furthermore, he states that tuberose is rarely available; this is still true but it is becoming more popular and easier to find.
For the hazardous oil list, the information he provides is still for the most part accurate, but I don't completely agree with all of his advice. Some of the citrus, peppermint, and lemon like scents can be irritants (and the citrus are usually phototoxic) as stated, but they can still be used on the skin by most people, though at very low concentrations (less than 1/2%), and, in regards to the citrus, at night. Those with sensitive skin should probably avoid usage as suggested.

Overall, I love this book. This book is unique in that it lists herbs for different spiritual uses, and can be used by any belief system. It is easy to use and comprehend, and full of useful information. Since this book was written over ten years ago some things (like which essential oils are genuinely true and which are synthetic) can be a little out of date, but for the most part those lists are still accurate. Definitely a must-have for anyone who wants to make their own spiritual blends for meditation or ritual work.

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

Indigenous Peoples of the Circumpolar North (Arctic)

This semester I am taking a course on culture and environment in local and global prespectives, focusing on the Arctic region and the indigenous peoples of those areas, in particular Russia. I am enjoying learning about these different but wonderful cultures, though I am very concerned about the social, economical, and environmental problems these groups face. These troubles are not unlike what other indigenous groups throughout the world have suffered, abeit maybe in a colder and harsher environment. In my research I've found several awesome resources on the environmental, economic, and social problems of indigenous peoples of the Arctic region, and thought I'd share them.

Here is an awesome link to the Arctic Network for the Support of the Indigenous Peoples of the Russian Arctic. This site discusses a wide range of topics that the indigenous peoples of the Russian Federation face: environmental, social, cultural, and economic issues. I love this site since it contains vast amounts of in depth, but easily comprehensive information!
For a great short summary of ecological, legislative, and economical issues and viewpoints, download the poster under the environmental and health articles (under the society and land section) titled:
Poster: Oil development and indigenous peoples in the Russian Arctic: Environmental changes, mistrust and dialogue, by W.K. Dallmann and V.V. Peskov. Note: I did not have trouble downloading this (I used Safari as my browser and opened it Photoshop) but some other browsers may have problems accessing this file.

One of the best resources I've found on environmental, social, cultural, and economic issues in the Arctic, focusing mainly on the Yukon region, is by a professor of Yukon College. Dr. Graham's course website has five modules online, which contain numerous articles on the circumpolar north. A good place to get a sense of the issues, including northern myths (stereotypes).

The University of Connecticut hosts a marvelous page on the Arctic called Arctic Circle. This website by Norman Chance (a well known Arctic anthropologist) and others contains in depth, but easy to understand research on natural resources, history, culture, environmental justice, and more! Not only does this site discuss these issues, but there are also examples of art and a virtual classroom.

The Alaska Native Knowledge Network has a lot of great information on the Alaska's indigenous people and their traditional knowledge systems, including publications (books and CDs). Definitely a great educational resource!

The Alaska Native Heritage Center is a good resource to learn about Alaska's different indigenous peoples. They also provide numerous programs (in Alaska) to educate people about and preserve indigenous culture. If you are planning on visiting Alaska some time soon, be sure to check out their native art and culture programs out! They look awesome!

Sunday, March 26, 2006

Online Aromatherapy Resources (Aromatherapy information)

Though I have a fairly large aromatherapy book collection, sometimes I like surfing online to find new articles and facts about my beloved essential oils! Here are a few of my favorite online resources on aromatherapy. :)

Aromaweb is probably the online resource I use the most! This website has it all: articles, essential oil and carrier oil profiles, recipes, lists of essential oil companies, and an awesome aromatherapy book list! Definitely my favorite!

Jeanne Rose's website has a lot of awesome articles on aromatherapy, herbalism, and natural cosmetics. She is one of the pioneers of modern day aromatherapy and herbalism and her books and articles are among my favorites in providing descriptions of the cosmetic and medicinal uses of essential oils and herbs.

AGORA's page has a lot of interesting articles on a wide range of aromatherapy topics. Some sections can be kind of hard to navigate through, but this site contains a wealth of information.

Tuesday, March 14, 2006

Carrier Oils for specific skin types (Aromatherapy/Natural Skin Care)

*This entry was editted July 13th.

I've suggested carrier oils for specific skin types before, but here's an expanded list. If one oil doesn't work for your skin, try a different oil. I've used all of these oils on my body with no problem, but my face is a different story! It took me a long time to find the right oils to use, but once I found them, my skin simply glows. Be sure to try to get cold pressed, unrefined, organic whenever possible; which has more vitamins and nutrients that highly refined oils.

Note: Though you can generously apply natural oils, creams, and butters on your body, apply only a small amount to your face. Natural serums (carrier oils plus essential oils) and creams are much more concentrated than the conventional stuff, and applying too much may clog pores and lead to blemishes. For the facial skin, apply no more than 2-5 drops of serum or 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon of natural cream. Be sure to apply to very damp skin. I like spraying my skin with hydrosol or aloe and then massaging the serum or cream in, though you could use toner or herbal infusion as well!

ALL SKIN TYPES:
-Jojoba: actually a liquid wax, this oil is similar to sebum (the skin's natural oil). It has a long shelf life and will not go rancid. People love using this as a base for perfumes for this reason. You can use it full strength or add up to 10% to extend the life of other oils.
-Camellia: from the green tea plant. This is a very light weight oil that is good for all skin types from dry to blemished skin. This is my favorite oil for skin care. Great for anti-aging (actually most of the oils on this list are good for that). A bit pricey but worth it!
-Kukui nut oil: this oil is one of my favorites. It is good for both dry skin and blemishes. It absorbs quickly, and is very light weight (it is probably the lightest weight oil described here). It is also one of the most expensive. I like unrefined but some people may not like the smell. I actually love it, it reminds me of water melon seeds.

DEHYDRATED:
This skin type looks like dry skin, in other words finely textured and flaky, BUT the dry, flaky areas are also oily at the same time; the skin produces oil but evaporation of water/moisture occurs too quickly. Pores may be clogged. May have blemishes. The following list is what I use on my skin. This skin type is generally not discussed in most books.
-Kukui nut oil
-Kukui nut butter-I love this butter. Like the oil, it absorbs quickly. Totally non-greasy.
-Shea butter: this butter is good for blemishes too. It forms a breathable barrier on the skin that holds in moisture. It is also easily absorbed. Make sure you spray your skin with lots of hydrosol or water or aloe, and only apply a tiny amount (to avoid clogged pores).
-Camellia
-Some people with this skin type may find help with jojoba

COMBINATION:

Certain parts of the face are oily and other parts dry. Generally the t-zone is oily and the cheeks dry. This is different from dehydrated skin where the dry parts are also oily. Suggestions of carrier oils for this skin type are usually not given in books (some recommend using different oils for specific parts of the face) but I think the following would be suitable:
-Camellia
-Shea butter
-Jojoba
-Kukui nut oil
-Hazelnut: this oil is light but astringent. Usually suitable for oily skin, some dry skins may like this as well.
-You may also want to try some of the other oils in the other lists below; many people like olive.


DRY:
-Kukui nut and butter
-Camellia
-Argan: this medium weight nut oil is good for dry skin.
-Olive: this is a medium weight oil; heavier than grapeseed, almond, or kukui, but not as heavy as avocado. Many people with dry skin love this oil, and some people with normal skin love it too
-Avocado: this oil is very thick and rich; you may want to combine this with a lighter oil (up to 10% in a blend)
-Rosehip seed: this oil is a bit expensive, and is usually combined with other oils because of its expense. But you can use it full strength, if you like. Note: Do NOT use this oil on active acne or really oily skin, as it can aggrevate acne. However, it is great at getting rid of old scars (including acne scars).
-Coconut oil: many people love this oil for dry skin. However use only small amounts since too much may be a bit drying. Be sure to get extra-virgin, unrefined (which is solid when it is cool) since refined is very drying, contains less vitamins, and is a lot waxier. Not to mention refined doesn't smell like coconuts like extra-virgin, unrefined!
-Macadamia nut: this light, nourishing oil is great for mature, drying skin. It resembles sebum.
-Shea butter
-Seabuckthorn berry oil: this healing oil is high in vitamins and must be diluted in another carrier (it can stain some light skins orange)
-Hazelnut (only suitable for some people with dry skin since it's astringent)
-Jojoba
-You can also try almond and apricot if your skin is only mildly dry.

NORMAL:
-Almond: a good light all purpose oil. Often used for massage.
-Apricot: a nice light oil
-Jojoba
-Kukui nut
-Camellia
-Many people also love olive and coconut oil

OILY:
-Grapeseed: this light oil is well absorbed into the skin. Many people also like to use this oil for massage since it is so light. Most of the time this oil is solvent extracted, though a cold pressed version is available
-Hazelnut
-Jojoba
-Kukui nut oil
-Camellia

For more information on the benefits of these oils, check out Mountain Rose Herbs, Aromaweb, and Nature's Gift. All three sites have oil profiles (MRH is my favorite).

Thursday, March 09, 2006

Carrier Oils, Essential Oils, Hydrosols (Aromatherapy/Natural Skin Care)

One thing that confuses people about aromatherapy and natural skin care is some of the terminology. Since I've posted a lot about carrier oils, essential oils, and hydrosols, I've finally decided to distinguish them below.

What is a carrier oil?


Carrier oils are just another name for any vegetable, nut, or seed (fatty) oil that is used in aromatherapy and natural skin care. They are called "carrier" oils because they are the oils that are used to dilute essential oils; the "carriers" or base of the blend. They are also sometimes called base oils. Examples include: olive, jojoba, and apricot oils.

A good, in depth explanation may be found at Aromaweb.

What are essential oils?

Though they are termed "oils", they are not greasy, "oily", or fatty, but are highly volatile substances. I've read many definitions from almost 30 books and there is no perfect definition on exactly what they are. What is agreed upon is that they are volatile substances, and that they are generally made of hundreds of chemical components that are responsible for a plant's fragrance as well as disease prevention and insect attraction/repelling activities.

Within the plant, essential oils are stored in special plant cells. Depending on the plant species, these cells can be found in either the leaves, flowers, roots, bark, fruit peel, or seed (fruit). One plant may yield up to several different types of essential oil. For example, neroli (flowers), petitgrain (leaves), and bitter orange (peel) essential oil all come from the same plant: Citrus aurantium, the orange tree. Not all plants have essential oils.

Plant matter is typically steam distilled to produce essential oils, though some (mainly citrus peels) are obtained by expression (pressing), and others (in particularly delicate and expensive flowers) may be extracted by solvents. There is also a new extraction method that involves CO2 that some people consider produces the purest product, though CO2 extracts contain many of the plant's waxes and constitutes not found in other types of essential oils. Since CO2 extraction is such a new method, all of the medicinal and cosmetic benefits of CO2 extracts are not yet known.

Aromaweb also has a great article describing essential oils in detail.


What is a hydrosol?

In the process of creating essential oils (steam distillation), two end products are created: essential oils and hydrosols. Hydrosols, also called flower waters or hydrolates, can be thought of as a distilled herbal water--kind of a fancy way of producing an herbal tea that has many more components than a regular herbal tea, and also contains trace amounts of essential oils. They also have one up on regular herbal teas in that they have a shelf life of 3-4 months rather than days. Popular hydrosols that you may have heard of are rose water and orange flower (neroli) water that are often used in many cosmetic recipes as well in Indian and many Middle Eastern cuisines.

Please note when buying hydrosols that there are two products that are called "flower waters". The other is basically essential oil mixed with distilled water; which is a different product. This type of flower water makes a wonderful all purpose aromatherapy spray, but should NOT be used in cooking. Though I've used the essential oil type of flower water in skin care, I much prefer the true hydrosol for use as a skin toner.

Sunday, March 05, 2006

Vegan article (Vegetation Information/News)

There is a good article in the Washington Post's Sunday Source section on veganism called"Vegan Venture: Going All-Veggie in the Company of Carnivores" By Bridget Bentz Siz. It includes four recipes that has been rated by a panel of five eaters (including a meat eater). The recipes include chocolate cake and a nut loaf. It also includes a section on the best vegan restaurants in the D.C. area.

Friday, March 03, 2006

Farmer's Market (Market information)

I recently found an awesome website from the USDA that lists all of the farmers' markets in every state (plus D.C.). I never knew there were so many farmers' markets in the VA and D.C. areas; if I actually have any time soon, I'm going to try to go to some of them!

Blog update

Hi all,

This blog is still undergoing updates; still in the process of placing all my old posts into links on the right side bar, so it'll be easier to find information! Almost done with that (just a few of the earlier posts left to do), and then I'll work on adding more environmental and skin care links (other resources). :)

Monday, February 27, 2006

About comments on blog

I was just posting an old post from my archives on a forum, and noticed some comments that I have not read--sorry if you posted a comment and I didn't answer; I usually don't look at my old archives much!

But I just figured out how to set blogger to show the date when people post, and for blogger to also e-mail me when someone actually leaves a comment, so hopefully I won't miss replying to a post in the future!