Recently when I was in Philly my sister brought me to this "vegan" natural soap store. This store made me sigh for two reasons. First (in a good way), because it was a small cute shop in which the owner ran and also made most of the products, which were mainly natural (some were all natural, some were I guess around 70-90% natural). It was similar to something that I would maybe like to own and run myself someday. But then I read the ingredients of the soap, and I sighed (in a bad way this time) because while they used a vegan base, they also used ingredients like beeswax, goats milk, and silk protein; making the soap not vegan. I didn't confront the owner about this (which I kind of regret) mainly because I am not a vegan and didn't want to get into an argument on what's vegan and not. I did buy two soaps which were vegan, but they were not the store brand but other brands that they stocked. Anyways I thought it would be a good time to pull out a very old question that I answered a long time ago on veganism vs vegetarianism, and bee/insect products. Also more on my thoughts on crafting vegan natural products.
What is the difference between a vegetarian and a vegan? And why do vegans avoid products from bees?
I'm just vegetarian, and not vegan (not yet anyhow), but the difference between a vegetarian and a vegan is that while both will not consume meat and products derived directly from an animal (like meat, meat stocks, marrow, gelatin, carmine, fur, and fish--though some people who consider themselves 'vegetarians' eat fish or chicken (which I don't understand)--, and some vegeterians wear leather and some don't), vegans go even further and do not consume any products that come from animals, even if it does not involve the death of the animals (like eggs, dairy, beeswax, honey, lanolin). People are vegetarian because of a wide range of reasons (cultural, religious, environmental, animal rights, health), but (as I see it) most people that are vegan are vegan because of animal rights reasons (though some may be vegan because of other reasons too).
In beekeeping the majority of the honey made by the bees (some companies 2/3 of the total honey produced, some all of the honey) is taken from the bees, and they are then given a sugar solution to last the winter. Also some companies (not all) may kill the queen bee each year, because it somehow increases honey production. Also in removing honey, other bees may accidentally be killed too (they scrap the beeswax and honey from the screens they use). Also some vegans do not agree with disrupting the natural cycles of the bees (most 'beehives' in honey producing are wooden boxes with removable screens). Many vegans feel that animals, including insects, should not be exploited in any shape or form by humans.
My thoughts on vegetarianism and veganism:
When I first became vegetarian about a dozen years ago, it was mainly due to environmental and animal rights reasons. Nowadays, it has involved into more of an environmental/spiritual reason, and also because of health. Last semester I took a seminar on urban wildlife (one of my focuses of my research), and researching for one of the assignments made me get back to thinking about the animal rights side of things, and in some strange way, back to a part of me. I don't know if I can ever be vegan diet wise (since I already have so many diet restrictions and have low B-12 levels, and went through hell the last couple years due to health problems partially due to this) but I'm trying to be more humane in the rest of my life. I no longer consume honey (I'm also hypoglycemic), and am trying to craft vegan all natural cosmetics (I see it as a challenge, especially since it is hard to find a truly all natural all vegan company on the market). Currently I still use beeswax and lanolin to craft since I have a ton left, but as soon as I'm out I have no plans to buy it again. I have also stopped using honey in cosmetics, and over two years ago stopped buying products with carmine in them (once I realized what carmine really was!). I recently crafted my first vegan cream, and am so proud of myself! My sister tried it and told me I should definitely sell it oneday! :)
Tuesday, January 23, 2007
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Naturally-derived/synthetic Detergents in Cosmetics and Cleaning Supplies (All Natural Cosmetics/Herbal Natural Cleaning)
What is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and is it really "derived from coconut oil"?
In my opinion, the phase "SLS derived from coconut oil" or most detergents "derived from coconut oil" in cosmetics is basically a marketing scam from companies to claim that their products are natural. Once upon a time ago most SLS was derived from coconut oil, but it was so processed, it could never be considered natural since the oil underwent so many chemical changes (hence becoming detergent). Nowadays, from my understanding, most SLS is derived from the Ziegler process--synthetic synthesis--and not from coconuts.
That said, there is a fine line about what is considered natural and what's not. For example, most "natural" liquid dish soap and laundry detergents are made from "naturally derived"/synthetic detergents and most people accept them as natural (since the product contains nothing but the detergent, essential oil, and maybe a bit of preservative and color, so no bleach and other toxic and irritating chemicals). It depends on how you define natural, as there is no set standard on the definition, and everyone has their own interpretations on what's natural.
I personally do not like ANY naturally derived/synthetic detegents in cosmetics (even the mild ones and non-toxic ones like coco polyglucose) because a) I've found that most naturally-derived/synthetic detergents remove too much of the natural oils from my skin and hair (much more than natural soap) and I have dehydrated skin and hair so that is a concern for me, b) some like SLS are irritants (when I use a "natural" toothpaste with SLS my gums bleed), and c) I'm just too anal in wanting to use and make all natural cosmetics or as natural as I can get. ;) (Though toothpaste is my bane, as nearly all brands have some form of naturally-derived/synthetic detergent, and the ones that don't seem to be too abrasive for my teeth to use on a regular basis).
I do use "natural" dish and laundry detergent though--the dish detergent cleans better than most natural liquid soaps I've tried (though I tend to wash my crafting dishes with liquid castille, which works fine for that), and natural laundry detergent doesn't leave my clothes feeling stiff or affect the color of my clothes (though some brands I've tried do). And most natural brands are biodegradable :) (though be sure to read the label as many synthetic detergents are made from petrochemicals, are not very biodegradable, and are pollutants).
In my opinion, the phase "SLS derived from coconut oil" or most detergents "derived from coconut oil" in cosmetics is basically a marketing scam from companies to claim that their products are natural. Once upon a time ago most SLS was derived from coconut oil, but it was so processed, it could never be considered natural since the oil underwent so many chemical changes (hence becoming detergent). Nowadays, from my understanding, most SLS is derived from the Ziegler process--synthetic synthesis--and not from coconuts.
That said, there is a fine line about what is considered natural and what's not. For example, most "natural" liquid dish soap and laundry detergents are made from "naturally derived"/synthetic detergents and most people accept them as natural (since the product contains nothing but the detergent, essential oil, and maybe a bit of preservative and color, so no bleach and other toxic and irritating chemicals). It depends on how you define natural, as there is no set standard on the definition, and everyone has their own interpretations on what's natural.
I personally do not like ANY naturally derived/synthetic detegents in cosmetics (even the mild ones and non-toxic ones like coco polyglucose) because a) I've found that most naturally-derived/synthetic detergents remove too much of the natural oils from my skin and hair (much more than natural soap) and I have dehydrated skin and hair so that is a concern for me, b) some like SLS are irritants (when I use a "natural" toothpaste with SLS my gums bleed), and c) I'm just too anal in wanting to use and make all natural cosmetics or as natural as I can get. ;) (Though toothpaste is my bane, as nearly all brands have some form of naturally-derived/synthetic detergent, and the ones that don't seem to be too abrasive for my teeth to use on a regular basis).
I do use "natural" dish and laundry detergent though--the dish detergent cleans better than most natural liquid soaps I've tried (though I tend to wash my crafting dishes with liquid castille, which works fine for that), and natural laundry detergent doesn't leave my clothes feeling stiff or affect the color of my clothes (though some brands I've tried do). And most natural brands are biodegradable :) (though be sure to read the label as many synthetic detergents are made from petrochemicals, are not very biodegradable, and are pollutants).
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Natural Facial Cleansers: What To Use and Where To Buy Samples (All Natural Cosmetics)
A few months ago someone asked on a forum where to buy samples of all natural facial cleansers. I decided to post my response to her here (edited and with additional information, of course), because like many people, I prefer to buy samples myself, before buying full size (though nowadays I craft the majority of what I use).
What are some brands of all natural face cleansers and where can I buy samples of them?
As I've mentioned many times before, my favorite facial soaps are the soaps from Heart Of Iowa . And J. Lynne Cosmetics sells samples of these soaps. Out of the many brands of all natural soaps I've tried these are the only soaps I will use on my facial skin (other natural soaps dry out my facial skin too much). They gently cleanse the skin, without leaving my skin tight and dry. Note to other all natural purists, some of the soaps do contain synthetic fragrances while others are all natural, so be sure to read the ingredients before buying. My favorite is the shea soap, but I also like the carrot soap (when my skin is less dry) and the dead sea mud soap as well (to remove toxins, when my skin is more oily).
Dr. Hauschka makes an awesome non-drying cleansing milk and cleansing cream that is perfect for dry and normal skin types, however this company is a bit pricey. They sell sample kits of their skin care, and you can find their products at places like Whole Foods or on their website. The sample kit is an economical way to try their products before investing in the full sized products. For the most part, many of their products are all natural formulations, though some of them do contain synthetics.
Aubrey Organics sells travel sizes of their skin care on their website, in their "travel a go-go" kits, which include cleanser, toner, moisturizer, and mask. They are offering them half price on their website now, which kind of worries me because I think they may be getting rid of their travel kits from their product line.
A great place to try all natural cleansers is Cosmetics Without Synthetics' website, which sells many different all natural or nearly all natural brands. They have samples of nearly every product they sell.
Terressentials also sells sample kits of their cleanser, toner, and facial creams/lotions. I actually haven't tried their facial care yet but have tried other products (like their hand soap) and met them at the D.C. Green Festival a couple years ago. This is a company with a conscious, and I'm going to try their facial skin care soon.
Another company I wanted to eventually try was Alexandra Avery's skin care line. Avery is a well known aromatherapist, and her skin care has won many awards. She sells a sample kit that includes many of her products.
And of course, you could always miy! Great all natural cleansers are honey and/or clay. You can mix them up or use them separately. I prefer rhassoul clay (a clay from Africa that is used in many spas) since that is non-drying, and has actually been shown to reduce dryness. You can get it at Garden of Wisdom or Mountain Rose Herbs. Monave also sells a clay-honey cleanser (you can buy samples of any Monave product, if it's not on the website, just e-mail them to ask). I don't clean my skin all the time with clay and honey since it's picky and I'm trying to use only vegan cosmetics now, but when I used to use this, it worked great and made my skin feel so soft! For vegans, I've tried using agave nectar, and it seems to clean as well as honey, and also made my skin soft. However I am not sure if agave has as much nutrients as honey, since it is mainly frutose.
I also used to use yogurt (with or without honey) to clean my skin, which works great for all skin types. Be sure to get plain, unsweetened, organic yogurt.
An infusion of soapwort root (an herb) can be used in place of soap, which may work for you. It is very gentle. It doesn't sud much but it will get your skin and hair very clean. I've been using soapwort this winter since my skin has been quite dry this season. I just bought soapnut, and hope to also try yucca root soon too.
You can also use a carrier oil to clean your skin. Some people with dry to normal skin may be able to clean with an oil, tone, and then moisturize, but if your skin is oily or dehydrated and prone to clogging then you may want to follow it with a soap, because otherwise your skin may become too greasy and your pores may clog. If you just want to use a cleansing oil, I suggest kukui nut or camellia oils (my favorite oils, both very light and fast absorbing). Some people also love olive (a medium weight oil), or almond or apricot (both light weight but not as light as camellia), and extra virgin coconut (used for dry skin, and some people with normal skin) to cleanse. Some people also prefer to use cold cream, but it is hard to find an all natural cold cream on the market (I need to retry the formula for Galen's cold cream eventually, and I actually just made a non-greasy, clean rinsing cold cream. I am so proud of myself).
What are some brands of all natural face cleansers and where can I buy samples of them?
As I've mentioned many times before, my favorite facial soaps are the soaps from Heart Of Iowa . And J. Lynne Cosmetics sells samples of these soaps. Out of the many brands of all natural soaps I've tried these are the only soaps I will use on my facial skin (other natural soaps dry out my facial skin too much). They gently cleanse the skin, without leaving my skin tight and dry. Note to other all natural purists, some of the soaps do contain synthetic fragrances while others are all natural, so be sure to read the ingredients before buying. My favorite is the shea soap, but I also like the carrot soap (when my skin is less dry) and the dead sea mud soap as well (to remove toxins, when my skin is more oily).
Dr. Hauschka makes an awesome non-drying cleansing milk and cleansing cream that is perfect for dry and normal skin types, however this company is a bit pricey. They sell sample kits of their skin care, and you can find their products at places like Whole Foods or on their website. The sample kit is an economical way to try their products before investing in the full sized products. For the most part, many of their products are all natural formulations, though some of them do contain synthetics.
Aubrey Organics sells travel sizes of their skin care on their website, in their "travel a go-go" kits, which include cleanser, toner, moisturizer, and mask. They are offering them half price on their website now, which kind of worries me because I think they may be getting rid of their travel kits from their product line.
A great place to try all natural cleansers is Cosmetics Without Synthetics' website, which sells many different all natural or nearly all natural brands. They have samples of nearly every product they sell.
Terressentials also sells sample kits of their cleanser, toner, and facial creams/lotions. I actually haven't tried their facial care yet but have tried other products (like their hand soap) and met them at the D.C. Green Festival a couple years ago. This is a company with a conscious, and I'm going to try their facial skin care soon.
Another company I wanted to eventually try was Alexandra Avery's skin care line. Avery is a well known aromatherapist, and her skin care has won many awards. She sells a sample kit that includes many of her products.
And of course, you could always miy! Great all natural cleansers are honey and/or clay. You can mix them up or use them separately. I prefer rhassoul clay (a clay from Africa that is used in many spas) since that is non-drying, and has actually been shown to reduce dryness. You can get it at Garden of Wisdom or Mountain Rose Herbs. Monave also sells a clay-honey cleanser (you can buy samples of any Monave product, if it's not on the website, just e-mail them to ask). I don't clean my skin all the time with clay and honey since it's picky and I'm trying to use only vegan cosmetics now, but when I used to use this, it worked great and made my skin feel so soft! For vegans, I've tried using agave nectar, and it seems to clean as well as honey, and also made my skin soft. However I am not sure if agave has as much nutrients as honey, since it is mainly frutose.
I also used to use yogurt (with or without honey) to clean my skin, which works great for all skin types. Be sure to get plain, unsweetened, organic yogurt.
An infusion of soapwort root (an herb) can be used in place of soap, which may work for you. It is very gentle. It doesn't sud much but it will get your skin and hair very clean. I've been using soapwort this winter since my skin has been quite dry this season. I just bought soapnut, and hope to also try yucca root soon too.
You can also use a carrier oil to clean your skin. Some people with dry to normal skin may be able to clean with an oil, tone, and then moisturize, but if your skin is oily or dehydrated and prone to clogging then you may want to follow it with a soap, because otherwise your skin may become too greasy and your pores may clog. If you just want to use a cleansing oil, I suggest kukui nut or camellia oils (my favorite oils, both very light and fast absorbing). Some people also love olive (a medium weight oil), or almond or apricot (both light weight but not as light as camellia), and extra virgin coconut (used for dry skin, and some people with normal skin) to cleanse. Some people also prefer to use cold cream, but it is hard to find an all natural cold cream on the market (I need to retry the formula for Galen's cold cream eventually, and I actually just made a non-greasy, clean rinsing cold cream. I am so proud of myself).
Wednesday, January 03, 2007
Review of Aubrey Organics Rosa Mosqueta Skin Care Line (All Natural Skin Care)
I've tried about 80-90% of Aubrey Organics' products, including nearly all of their skin care line (I think there may be two specialty creams I haven't used).
First I'd like to say that I greatly admire Aubrey Hampton. He has a background in both chemistry and herbalism so really understands both sides of the cosmetic industry (he has a degree in chemistry and worked as a cosmetic chemist before starting his own company, and he learned herbalism from his mother and a neighbor). He understands what herbs work best for what skin type. It was actually his books that got me first interested in natural cosmetics.
Aubrey Organics is also one of the only truly natural lines available in health food stores (most claim to be natural but contain synthetics).
Review of the rosa mosqueta skin line: I really like their cleanser but didn't care too much for their toner because it contains witch hazel extract (I can't use any alcohol in toner because it dries out my face too much but this would be perfect for other skin types). Their body lotions are my favorite out of any brand (the rosa mosqueta lotion makes my skin so soft, and all of their lotions are fast absorbing). Their face lotions are highly absorbent and non-greasy which some people love, though personally I need something that not only absorbs fast and doesn't leave my skin greasy, but also I need something that forms a breathable, non-clogging barrier to prevent water loss; so their face lotions for day time use don't work so well for me. But I love their rosa mosqueta night creme, which is a mix of shea and rosa mosqueta which works great for my skin. I also love their eye cream, which is the only eye cream I've ever used that actually works. As for the 100% rosa mosqueta/rose hip seed oil, it is way over priced; it's better to get it at Mountain Rose Herbs or Garden of Wisdom. The rosa mosqueta mask is one of my favorite masks/scrubs of all time. It leaves my skin so soft!
I recommend getting the travel kit, which is a great deal (you get the cleanser, toner, lotion and mask for under $15; right now it is half price for under $8 on their website). Also if you buy through their website and spend over a certain amount, you get a free product (it isn't always advertised on their website but you should see the free product in the shopping cart). But I don't think they are doing this now, as they have other free deals now.
I haven't used their facial mist; but I believe it is a best seller.
First I'd like to say that I greatly admire Aubrey Hampton. He has a background in both chemistry and herbalism so really understands both sides of the cosmetic industry (he has a degree in chemistry and worked as a cosmetic chemist before starting his own company, and he learned herbalism from his mother and a neighbor). He understands what herbs work best for what skin type. It was actually his books that got me first interested in natural cosmetics.
Aubrey Organics is also one of the only truly natural lines available in health food stores (most claim to be natural but contain synthetics).
Review of the rosa mosqueta skin line: I really like their cleanser but didn't care too much for their toner because it contains witch hazel extract (I can't use any alcohol in toner because it dries out my face too much but this would be perfect for other skin types). Their body lotions are my favorite out of any brand (the rosa mosqueta lotion makes my skin so soft, and all of their lotions are fast absorbing). Their face lotions are highly absorbent and non-greasy which some people love, though personally I need something that not only absorbs fast and doesn't leave my skin greasy, but also I need something that forms a breathable, non-clogging barrier to prevent water loss; so their face lotions for day time use don't work so well for me. But I love their rosa mosqueta night creme, which is a mix of shea and rosa mosqueta which works great for my skin. I also love their eye cream, which is the only eye cream I've ever used that actually works. As for the 100% rosa mosqueta/rose hip seed oil, it is way over priced; it's better to get it at Mountain Rose Herbs or Garden of Wisdom. The rosa mosqueta mask is one of my favorite masks/scrubs of all time. It leaves my skin so soft!
I recommend getting the travel kit, which is a great deal (you get the cleanser, toner, lotion and mask for under $15; right now it is half price for under $8 on their website). Also if you buy through their website and spend over a certain amount, you get a free product (it isn't always advertised on their website but you should see the free product in the shopping cart). But I don't think they are doing this now, as they have other free deals now.
I haven't used their facial mist; but I believe it is a best seller.
Thursday, December 14, 2006
I'm Hypoglycemic/diabetic and Veggie: What Can I Eat? (Hypoglycemia/Diabetes/Vegetarian Information)
As some of you know, I'm not only hypoglycemic (low blood sugar) but also vegetarian as well. One thing that I always hear is "What do you eat?". And the answer is: same as a regular veggie but whole grain, no sugar, lots of protein, etc--so at times even healthier than a regular veggie! It does take some time getting used to, but there is no reason a person can't be veggie while being hypoglycemic or diabetic at the same time (though since my B12 levels are kind of low and my metabolism is really fast so I require high amounts of calories, I don't know if I can ever be vegan healthwise; which is why I'm trying to be more cruelty free in other aspects of my life like crafting cosmetics! Anyways...). In addition,the hypoglycemic diet is really similiar to the diabetic one (except in some instances the hypoglycemic diet is probably a tad stricter since diabetics could probably still eat some of the things severe hypoglycemics can't), so the following tips are also helpful for veggie diabetics as well.
So here are some general tips for hypoglycemics/diabetics who are veggie:
1) Avoid white sugar, white rice, white flour, white pasta, and anything highly refined and processed. These four items will shoot your blood sugar up rapidly, then it will drop rapidly, often below what you started (and for diabetics, it'll rise up and stay there). The thing is that white sugar and white flour are in pretty much EVERYTHING so be sure to read labels carefully. I pretty much cook everything all my meals myself, and don't eat too much processed/pre-packaged foods.
2) Also you need to avoid things like honey, maple syrup, brown sugar etc.
3) I don't eat any white sugar or the sugars above--aside from fruit (note: super severe hypoglycemics may not be able to eat fruit at all), agave nectar in small amounts in the very occasional baked good, and the VERY small amounts of white sugar in breads (it's a very small amount of sugar compared to say a cake or something) and in some meat substitutes (again a small amount). The good thing I've found is that once you don't eat sugar, you don't crave it, so it isn't as hard as it sounds. Though some super severe hypoglycemics may not be able to tolerate sugar in any amount (in that case you'd have to bake your own bread).
4) My blood sugar problem is pretty bad so I don't really eat corn or potatoes that much anymore (too starchy). If I do, I only eat it in very small amounts and eat it with lots of protein. Note: when you cook potatoes, boil them in water which removes much of the starches. I've found I can eat a small amount of mashed potatoes with no problems (as long as I eat protein with it) but when I have potatoes that haven't been boiled, I sometimes feel sick.
5) Protein and fiber and fat are good at regulating blood sugar because it helps slow down the absorption of glucose/sugar. Be sure to eat a small amount of protein at every meal. Note: as a veggie, I hate it when people are convinced veggies don't get enough protein--it's actually the easiest nutrient to get! I always get asked "oh you're veggie, how do you get enough protein?" which to me is silly, because basically if you eat you get protein. As a hypoglycemic I eat so much protein it's almost disgusting. Personally as a veggie I am more concerned with getting enough B12.
6) Eat 5 to 7 small meals or snacks a day instead of 3 big meals a day. It is very important for hypoglycemics to eat every couple of hours to regulate blood sugar problems. For some it may be every 1 1/2 hours, for others every three hours. I usually eat three meals and 2 to 4 snacks a day.
So what to eat?
Avocados are your friend! They have protein and fat (good fat) and a natural chemical in them that helps regulate blood sugar.
Garlic and onions and cinnamon help lower blood sugar (I don't eat too much of these, only sometimes in small amounts. These spices/herbs would benefit someone who's diabetic though).
Whole wheat pastry flour is a good sub for white flour since it is not heavy or grainy at all (though don't try making cookies with this, it'll make them fluffy like little cakes. Ask me how I know). Also good: spelt (high in protein but can make breads etc dry so add more liquid) and whole wheat flour. I also use oat flour.
Whole grains instead of refined grains. Eat brown rice instead of white, whole wheat pasta instead of regular pasta, etc. Spelt and quinoa (which are high in nutrients and protein) are your friend.
Lots of veggie protein: tofu/soy, veggie burgers, quorn, seitan, tempeh, eggs, dairy, lentils, beans, and nuts galore (the nuts may be high in fat but a lot of times has the 'good' fats)
White sugar subs: One sugar I've found that doesn't affect blood sugar levels is agave nectar which has a low glycemic index. It is primarily frustose (which the body takes longer to break down, since the body has to convert it to a usable form: glucose). Also good is glycerin (I use glycerin in making natural cold syrups; make sure you get veggie glycerin).
Chocolate and carob: when I occasionally eat chocolate or carob I get grain sweetened chocolate from Sunspire, and also their unsweetened carob (available in veggie and vegan formulas).
Eat organic. Organic foods have more nutrients and less chemicals
Brown bag suggestions:
Whole wheat french bread with fresh mozzeralla and pesto/basil and tomatoes, black pepper. If you are using basil rather than the pesto add a drizzle of olive oil and basamic vinegar.
Calzones (pizza pockets) filled with lots of veggies, low fat cheese or soy cheese, veggie pepperoni, or maybe something like an indian filling.
Samosas; an indian pastry filled with an indian curry (usually potatoes and peas). Make the pastry with whole grain flour. And maybe other veggies if you can't have potato.
My favorite pita: feta (low fat or use a soy cheese), herbs (I like sage), olive oil and vinegar, a veggie burger (I like amy's california burgers), roasted peppers, olives, artichokes, tomatoes.
Cold pasta salad.
Cold bean salads.
I sometimes like to do an assortment of breads, cheeses (low fat or soy), veggies, fruit, guacamole and other spreads and make a bunch of small different sandwiches.
Veggie wraps with a soft herbed low fat cheese or soy cheese or marinated tofu.
So here are some general tips for hypoglycemics/diabetics who are veggie:
1) Avoid white sugar, white rice, white flour, white pasta, and anything highly refined and processed. These four items will shoot your blood sugar up rapidly, then it will drop rapidly, often below what you started (and for diabetics, it'll rise up and stay there). The thing is that white sugar and white flour are in pretty much EVERYTHING so be sure to read labels carefully. I pretty much cook everything all my meals myself, and don't eat too much processed/pre-packaged foods.
2) Also you need to avoid things like honey, maple syrup, brown sugar etc.
3) I don't eat any white sugar or the sugars above--aside from fruit (note: super severe hypoglycemics may not be able to eat fruit at all), agave nectar in small amounts in the very occasional baked good, and the VERY small amounts of white sugar in breads (it's a very small amount of sugar compared to say a cake or something) and in some meat substitutes (again a small amount). The good thing I've found is that once you don't eat sugar, you don't crave it, so it isn't as hard as it sounds. Though some super severe hypoglycemics may not be able to tolerate sugar in any amount (in that case you'd have to bake your own bread).
4) My blood sugar problem is pretty bad so I don't really eat corn or potatoes that much anymore (too starchy). If I do, I only eat it in very small amounts and eat it with lots of protein. Note: when you cook potatoes, boil them in water which removes much of the starches. I've found I can eat a small amount of mashed potatoes with no problems (as long as I eat protein with it) but when I have potatoes that haven't been boiled, I sometimes feel sick.
5) Protein and fiber and fat are good at regulating blood sugar because it helps slow down the absorption of glucose/sugar. Be sure to eat a small amount of protein at every meal. Note: as a veggie, I hate it when people are convinced veggies don't get enough protein--it's actually the easiest nutrient to get! I always get asked "oh you're veggie, how do you get enough protein?" which to me is silly, because basically if you eat you get protein. As a hypoglycemic I eat so much protein it's almost disgusting. Personally as a veggie I am more concerned with getting enough B12.
6) Eat 5 to 7 small meals or snacks a day instead of 3 big meals a day. It is very important for hypoglycemics to eat every couple of hours to regulate blood sugar problems. For some it may be every 1 1/2 hours, for others every three hours. I usually eat three meals and 2 to 4 snacks a day.
So what to eat?
Avocados are your friend! They have protein and fat (good fat) and a natural chemical in them that helps regulate blood sugar.
Garlic and onions and cinnamon help lower blood sugar (I don't eat too much of these, only sometimes in small amounts. These spices/herbs would benefit someone who's diabetic though).
Whole wheat pastry flour is a good sub for white flour since it is not heavy or grainy at all (though don't try making cookies with this, it'll make them fluffy like little cakes. Ask me how I know). Also good: spelt (high in protein but can make breads etc dry so add more liquid) and whole wheat flour. I also use oat flour.
Whole grains instead of refined grains. Eat brown rice instead of white, whole wheat pasta instead of regular pasta, etc. Spelt and quinoa (which are high in nutrients and protein) are your friend.
Lots of veggie protein: tofu/soy, veggie burgers, quorn, seitan, tempeh, eggs, dairy, lentils, beans, and nuts galore (the nuts may be high in fat but a lot of times has the 'good' fats)
White sugar subs: One sugar I've found that doesn't affect blood sugar levels is agave nectar which has a low glycemic index. It is primarily frustose (which the body takes longer to break down, since the body has to convert it to a usable form: glucose). Also good is glycerin (I use glycerin in making natural cold syrups; make sure you get veggie glycerin).
Chocolate and carob: when I occasionally eat chocolate or carob I get grain sweetened chocolate from Sunspire, and also their unsweetened carob (available in veggie and vegan formulas).
Eat organic. Organic foods have more nutrients and less chemicals
Brown bag suggestions:
Whole wheat french bread with fresh mozzeralla and pesto/basil and tomatoes, black pepper. If you are using basil rather than the pesto add a drizzle of olive oil and basamic vinegar.
Calzones (pizza pockets) filled with lots of veggies, low fat cheese or soy cheese, veggie pepperoni, or maybe something like an indian filling.
Samosas; an indian pastry filled with an indian curry (usually potatoes and peas). Make the pastry with whole grain flour. And maybe other veggies if you can't have potato.
My favorite pita: feta (low fat or use a soy cheese), herbs (I like sage), olive oil and vinegar, a veggie burger (I like amy's california burgers), roasted peppers, olives, artichokes, tomatoes.
Cold pasta salad.
Cold bean salads.
I sometimes like to do an assortment of breads, cheeses (low fat or soy), veggies, fruit, guacamole and other spreads and make a bunch of small different sandwiches.
Veggie wraps with a soft herbed low fat cheese or soy cheese or marinated tofu.
Saturday, December 09, 2006
Uses of Carrier Oils (All Natural Skin Care)
What can I use carrier oils for?
There are many uses for carrier oils. Here are some of my favorites:
-use as a hot oil hair treatment (infused with herbs or add essential oils)
-in balms/salves and body butters
-make lotions or creams with them
-use as a body/massage oil or bath oil (mixed with essential oils or infuse with herbs)
-use as a skin cleanser or makeup remover (good for dry skin or some normal skin types. If it's too oily, follow with soap)
-use as a serum (mixed with essential oil)
-add to soap (liquid or melt and pour or rebatched)
-in salt and sugar scrubs, or any kind of scrub
-in masks
-make an oil based perfume
What carrier oils can I use in my hair as a hot oil treatment?
You can use almost any carrier oil, but different carrier oils have different properties, and certain oils are better for specific skin and hair types.
Good alternatives for dry hair include extra virgin olive oil; evoo infused with rosemary is a classic natural hair treatment. If your hair is extra dry try avocado oil (very rich and heavy; better if you mix it with a lighter oil). Rosehip seed oil is very nourishing for dry to normal to dry hair. For normal hair, you could also use sweet almond or apricot oils, or try the evoo. For oily, try grapeseed oil. For all hair types, try camellia oil (which is one of the lightest oils out there, and is easier to shampoo out than the other oils). Be sure not to apply too much oil to your hair or it'll be hard to get out.
Where can I buy carrier oils; can I buy them locally?
Some stores like Walmart or maybe Target may sell jojoba and extra virgin coconut oil. You may be able to find coconut oil in a regular supermarket, but usually it's very refined and not the extra virgin unrefined kind. Usually you can find the oils in health food/natural food stores like Whole Foods (if you buy coconut oil from Whole Foods be sure you get the oils near the vitamin oil and not from the cooking section, since the ones near the vitamin aisle are unrefined/virgin and organic). You can also order them online like from Garden of Wisdom and Mountain Rose Herbs. I highly suggest purchasing organic, unrefined, cold pressed oils which contain more vitamins and nutrients.
There are many uses for carrier oils. Here are some of my favorites:
-use as a hot oil hair treatment (infused with herbs or add essential oils)
-in balms/salves and body butters
-make lotions or creams with them
-use as a body/massage oil or bath oil (mixed with essential oils or infuse with herbs)
-use as a skin cleanser or makeup remover (good for dry skin or some normal skin types. If it's too oily, follow with soap)
-use as a serum (mixed with essential oil)
-add to soap (liquid or melt and pour or rebatched)
-in salt and sugar scrubs, or any kind of scrub
-in masks
-make an oil based perfume
What carrier oils can I use in my hair as a hot oil treatment?
You can use almost any carrier oil, but different carrier oils have different properties, and certain oils are better for specific skin and hair types.
Good alternatives for dry hair include extra virgin olive oil; evoo infused with rosemary is a classic natural hair treatment. If your hair is extra dry try avocado oil (very rich and heavy; better if you mix it with a lighter oil). Rosehip seed oil is very nourishing for dry to normal to dry hair. For normal hair, you could also use sweet almond or apricot oils, or try the evoo. For oily, try grapeseed oil. For all hair types, try camellia oil (which is one of the lightest oils out there, and is easier to shampoo out than the other oils). Be sure not to apply too much oil to your hair or it'll be hard to get out.
Where can I buy carrier oils; can I buy them locally?
Some stores like Walmart or maybe Target may sell jojoba and extra virgin coconut oil. You may be able to find coconut oil in a regular supermarket, but usually it's very refined and not the extra virgin unrefined kind. Usually you can find the oils in health food/natural food stores like Whole Foods (if you buy coconut oil from Whole Foods be sure you get the oils near the vitamin oil and not from the cooking section, since the ones near the vitamin aisle are unrefined/virgin and organic). You can also order them online like from Garden of Wisdom and Mountain Rose Herbs. I highly suggest purchasing organic, unrefined, cold pressed oils which contain more vitamins and nutrients.
Sunday, December 03, 2006
Soapwort Cleanser (Herbal information/All Natural Cosmetics)
This fall/winter, the weather has been drying out my facial skin much more than usual. So I've stopped using my beloved shea soap on my face, and have been using soapwort instead.
Soapwort is a very gentle cleanser; it is so gentle that museums use it to clean antique fabrics. It can be used as a skin cleasner or shampoo or for fabrics, but I haven't tried it on fabrics yet!
I like it because it doesn't dry out my facial skin. It is a natural saponin, so doesn't lather as much as soap does but does turn slightly bubbly when you make it. It actually doesn't lather that much at all but it will clean your skin very well.
It is one of the only decoctions that I know of that you can make that actually has a long shelf life. One source (Worwood) says it will last indefinitely, but if you infuse it with other herbs like most recipes recommend shelf life (non-refrigerated) is reduced to 8 to 11 or so days.
Directions adapted from the book "The New Age Herbalist".
To make, pour boiling water (2-3 cups) over 1 oz of the root, let steep for 12 hours, and then boil (covered) for 15-20 minutes. Strain. Let cool and store in fridge.
I like adding a small amount of xanthan gum to thicken it up.
Soapwort is a very gentle cleanser; it is so gentle that museums use it to clean antique fabrics. It can be used as a skin cleasner or shampoo or for fabrics, but I haven't tried it on fabrics yet!
I like it because it doesn't dry out my facial skin. It is a natural saponin, so doesn't lather as much as soap does but does turn slightly bubbly when you make it. It actually doesn't lather that much at all but it will clean your skin very well.
It is one of the only decoctions that I know of that you can make that actually has a long shelf life. One source (Worwood) says it will last indefinitely, but if you infuse it with other herbs like most recipes recommend shelf life (non-refrigerated) is reduced to 8 to 11 or so days.
Directions adapted from the book "The New Age Herbalist".
To make, pour boiling water (2-3 cups) over 1 oz of the root, let steep for 12 hours, and then boil (covered) for 15-20 minutes. Strain. Let cool and store in fridge.
I like adding a small amount of xanthan gum to thicken it up.
Monday, November 13, 2006
Lemon Ginger Tea (Herbal Information/Cold Remedy)
With the cold season coming on, I thought I'd post my favorite cold remedy tea: Lemon Ginger tea. Lemon is antiviral and antibacterial, and ginger is also good for colds and flu. If you add honey, it is good for soothing throats too. (Unfortunately I can not eat honey anymore; but I still love the taste without it--most people don't, LOL!)
Lemon Ginger tea
Boil some water and add some fresh ginger root (a few slices) and simmer for at least 15 minutes (with the cover on). Take it off the heat, add a few slices of fresh lemon and let steep (with the cover on) for at least 20 minutes. Add honey and drink hot (it should still be hot, if you kept the cover on, if not, just bring it to a boil again).
Lemon Ginger tea
Boil some water and add some fresh ginger root (a few slices) and simmer for at least 15 minutes (with the cover on). Take it off the heat, add a few slices of fresh lemon and let steep (with the cover on) for at least 20 minutes. Add honey and drink hot (it should still be hot, if you kept the cover on, if not, just bring it to a boil again).
Sunday, November 12, 2006
Questions On Various Natural Cosmetic Ingredients (Natural Skin Care)
Random FAQ from a few weeks ago.
What carrier oils are good for my skin type?
Check out my blog entry on Carrier oils and skin type (I actually need to edit this list, as I've just received several new oils!)
What liquid cleanser can I use on my face?
You can use plain castille liquid soap, which is an olive oil based soap. Many natural companies such as Aubrey Organics and Terressentials (see links) also make nice soap based cleansers. I've been using soapwort as a cleanser recently.
My shea butter is so grainy. Is there a way to fix this?
After you melt in your hands, apply only a small amount to really, really damp skin.
I haven't tried this (I haven't had a problem with my shea being grainy) but I've read you can melt all of your shea in a double broiler over very, very low for at least 15 to 20 minutes, and then let it cool quickly, like in the fridge or freezer; cooling it down fast prevents crystals from forming.
Next time, you can also try east shea (a subspecies), which is softer/creamier and very easy to spread.
Which butter is better? Shea, cocoa, or mango butter?
Depends on your skin type. I love shea the most, which is helpful for my dehydrated skin which can get dry and blemished. While shea can be used by most skin types (except maybe the very oily), cocoa butter is better for dry skin, though some people with normal, dehydrated, and combination skin can also use it. Cocoa butter probably needs to melted and mixed a carrier oil before use, or you can just melt a little in the palm of your hand. I like both shea and cocoa butter in creams. Haven't tried mango yet, but intend to soon.
What is whipped shea?
It is basically when you whip shea, like whipped dairy butter! I plan on making this soon.
How do I make my own perfumes? What can I use to make perfumes? Is there a rose scented oil?
I've posted about natural perfumes concentrations and miy and where to buy and more notes and resources. You can make one with rose essential oil (aka rose attar) or rose absolute. Dilute in a carrier like vodka, perfumer's alcohol or jojoba. Rose attar is one of the most expensive essential oils ($1-2 a drop) but so worth it, the absolute is less expensive and some people prefer the smell of the absolute over rose attar. I love rose attar, it's one of my favorites. Though expensive you don't use that much essential oil and it ends up being much cheaper than commerical perfumes once you dilute it. And it smells way more heavenly than the commerical brands.
What carrier oils are good for my skin type?
Check out my blog entry on Carrier oils and skin type (I actually need to edit this list, as I've just received several new oils!)
What liquid cleanser can I use on my face?
You can use plain castille liquid soap, which is an olive oil based soap. Many natural companies such as Aubrey Organics and Terressentials (see links) also make nice soap based cleansers. I've been using soapwort as a cleanser recently.
My shea butter is so grainy. Is there a way to fix this?
After you melt in your hands, apply only a small amount to really, really damp skin.
I haven't tried this (I haven't had a problem with my shea being grainy) but I've read you can melt all of your shea in a double broiler over very, very low for at least 15 to 20 minutes, and then let it cool quickly, like in the fridge or freezer; cooling it down fast prevents crystals from forming.
Next time, you can also try east shea (a subspecies), which is softer/creamier and very easy to spread.
Which butter is better? Shea, cocoa, or mango butter?
Depends on your skin type. I love shea the most, which is helpful for my dehydrated skin which can get dry and blemished. While shea can be used by most skin types (except maybe the very oily), cocoa butter is better for dry skin, though some people with normal, dehydrated, and combination skin can also use it. Cocoa butter probably needs to melted and mixed a carrier oil before use, or you can just melt a little in the palm of your hand. I like both shea and cocoa butter in creams. Haven't tried mango yet, but intend to soon.
What is whipped shea?
It is basically when you whip shea, like whipped dairy butter! I plan on making this soon.
How do I make my own perfumes? What can I use to make perfumes? Is there a rose scented oil?
I've posted about natural perfumes concentrations and miy and where to buy and more notes and resources. You can make one with rose essential oil (aka rose attar) or rose absolute. Dilute in a carrier like vodka, perfumer's alcohol or jojoba. Rose attar is one of the most expensive essential oils ($1-2 a drop) but so worth it, the absolute is less expensive and some people prefer the smell of the absolute over rose attar. I love rose attar, it's one of my favorites. Though expensive you don't use that much essential oil and it ends up being much cheaper than commerical perfumes once you dilute it. And it smells way more heavenly than the commerical brands.
Monday, November 06, 2006
Insect Repellents on Animals (Aromatherapy)
Meant to post this a while back.
Can I use essential oils on pets for fleas, mosquitos etc?
There are many essential oils that are effective moisquito repellents for use on humans, but I don't know too much about what essential oils are safe to use on dogs (some essential oils that are used on humans are very toxic on other animals). I haven't researched this too much, since I'm a cat person and essential oils are toxic to cats. Some are fine to use on dogs.
There is one book which is supposed to be the best source for essential oils on animals called Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals by Kristen Leigh Bell (who is incidentally the owner of the mineral makeup company Aromaleigh--I am so sad they moved away from being all natural so i don't use their products any longer. Anyways...)
There is another book called "Veterinary Aromatherapy" but Aromaweb (an aromatherapy website) cautions about some of the advice in this book.
I do not have these books yet, but I suggest getting the one by Bell since she is considered the expert in aromatherapy for animals.
Worwood's complete book of aromatherapy also has some info on use on animals, but since it was written in 1995, and she recommends using essential oils on cats which has since been shown to be toxic, the info from that book is dated for animals (though it is considered one of the aromatherapy bibles for humans)
Be sure to dilute the essential oils well (probably only at the 1/2 to 1% concentration or less; remember: less is better!) or consider using hydrosols, which are much more gentle.
It would probably be better to use essential oils on a collar rather than on the fur so your dog can't lick it off.
Vermont soap sells dog shampoo, and Aubrey Organics has dog shampoo, a dip for fleas, and a spray. You can look at the ingredients to get an idea of what you can use. (For cat lovers reading this, please don't use these products on cats. Use plain castille soap to wash kitty if it is absolutely necessary).
Can I use essential oils on pets for fleas, mosquitos etc?
There are many essential oils that are effective moisquito repellents for use on humans, but I don't know too much about what essential oils are safe to use on dogs (some essential oils that are used on humans are very toxic on other animals). I haven't researched this too much, since I'm a cat person and essential oils are toxic to cats. Some are fine to use on dogs.
There is one book which is supposed to be the best source for essential oils on animals called Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals by Kristen Leigh Bell (who is incidentally the owner of the mineral makeup company Aromaleigh--I am so sad they moved away from being all natural so i don't use their products any longer. Anyways...)
There is another book called "Veterinary Aromatherapy" but Aromaweb (an aromatherapy website) cautions about some of the advice in this book.
I do not have these books yet, but I suggest getting the one by Bell since she is considered the expert in aromatherapy for animals.
Worwood's complete book of aromatherapy also has some info on use on animals, but since it was written in 1995, and she recommends using essential oils on cats which has since been shown to be toxic, the info from that book is dated for animals (though it is considered one of the aromatherapy bibles for humans)
Be sure to dilute the essential oils well (probably only at the 1/2 to 1% concentration or less; remember: less is better!) or consider using hydrosols, which are much more gentle.
It would probably be better to use essential oils on a collar rather than on the fur so your dog can't lick it off.
Vermont soap sells dog shampoo, and Aubrey Organics has dog shampoo, a dip for fleas, and a spray. You can look at the ingredients to get an idea of what you can use. (For cat lovers reading this, please don't use these products on cats. Use plain castille soap to wash kitty if it is absolutely necessary).
Sunday, November 05, 2006
Essential oil storage, shelf life, old oils, and also use in pregnancy (Aromatherapy)
What is the shelf life of essential oils?
Depends on the essential oil. Citrus oils have the shortest shelf life of about 6 months to a year, so be sure to buy from a reputable dealer which has a high turnover rate. For citrus essential oils I highly recommend not buying them in a store (unless it is a store like Enfluerage) but rather an online essential oil dealer, since essential oils in a store may have been sitting there for a while. Most essential oils will last anywhere from 1 to 2 years, some people say they are good for up to four years, with a slight loss of quality. I tend to agree with the 1-2 year opinion, because I have a couple essential oils that are pushing 2 years, and the smell has changed. If you aren't using them often, be sure to refrigerate them, which will extend the shelf life, as much as twice as long. A few essential oils, such as vertivert, frankinscene etc (most of the resinous or heartwood ones) may have a shelf life of several years.
What is the best way to store essential oils?
The best way is to refrigerate them and make sure that there is no space in the bottles so there is no room for air in the bottles (which causes degradation). If they are in the fridge, it won't matter if the glass is clear. But if you store them elsewhere, it is better to have colored glass. If you can't store them all in the fridge than any cool, dark (but not damp/humid) place will work great! Do not store them in the bathroom--too humid. I personally don't store my essential oils in the fridge but I generally use them within a year or two (or less, especially like citrus essential oils).
What do I do with old oils?
I think either a lot of people use or just throw away old oils (moaning and complaining of course since some of them are quite pricey). Though I wouldn't use old essential oils for cosmetic or medicinal uses (old essential oils may undergo some chemical changes and lose their cosmetic/medicinal properties) there is no reason why you can't use them to scent your clothes (place a few drops on a cotton ball), letters, ink etc.
Can I use essential oils during pregnancy?
I'm not an expert in this (since I've never been pregnant) but I have read some about the topic. Generally a lot of aromatherapy authors have stated that essential oils should be used at lower concentrations (1/2 to 1%) and list only a few that can be used during this time, and many should be avoided. Different authors have different lists, but most of the lists of essential oils ok to use include some of the citrus peel oils (like mandarin or tangerine) or lavender (depends on the species; recommended is L. angustofolia. You probably shouldn't use Lavendula latifolia aka spike lavender since that is high in camphor; all camphor rich oils should be avoided). But there seems to be conflict with many authors lists from what I've seen. Like several authors list chamomile and rose as okay to use, but then another listed it to be used with caution during pregnancy (though it can be used). Geranium has been cited by many authors as safe to use; but that never made since to me since geranium can have hormone-like activity. (Tisserand and Balacs listed both chamomiles, rose, and geranium as safe to use, and I generally trust their suggestions since they have conducted a lot of scientific tests on the essential oils; though their book is from 2000 so may be a little dated)
Depends on the essential oil. Citrus oils have the shortest shelf life of about 6 months to a year, so be sure to buy from a reputable dealer which has a high turnover rate. For citrus essential oils I highly recommend not buying them in a store (unless it is a store like Enfluerage) but rather an online essential oil dealer, since essential oils in a store may have been sitting there for a while. Most essential oils will last anywhere from 1 to 2 years, some people say they are good for up to four years, with a slight loss of quality. I tend to agree with the 1-2 year opinion, because I have a couple essential oils that are pushing 2 years, and the smell has changed. If you aren't using them often, be sure to refrigerate them, which will extend the shelf life, as much as twice as long. A few essential oils, such as vertivert, frankinscene etc (most of the resinous or heartwood ones) may have a shelf life of several years.
What is the best way to store essential oils?
The best way is to refrigerate them and make sure that there is no space in the bottles so there is no room for air in the bottles (which causes degradation). If they are in the fridge, it won't matter if the glass is clear. But if you store them elsewhere, it is better to have colored glass. If you can't store them all in the fridge than any cool, dark (but not damp/humid) place will work great! Do not store them in the bathroom--too humid. I personally don't store my essential oils in the fridge but I generally use them within a year or two (or less, especially like citrus essential oils).
What do I do with old oils?
I think either a lot of people use or just throw away old oils (moaning and complaining of course since some of them are quite pricey). Though I wouldn't use old essential oils for cosmetic or medicinal uses (old essential oils may undergo some chemical changes and lose their cosmetic/medicinal properties) there is no reason why you can't use them to scent your clothes (place a few drops on a cotton ball), letters, ink etc.
Can I use essential oils during pregnancy?
I'm not an expert in this (since I've never been pregnant) but I have read some about the topic. Generally a lot of aromatherapy authors have stated that essential oils should be used at lower concentrations (1/2 to 1%) and list only a few that can be used during this time, and many should be avoided. Different authors have different lists, but most of the lists of essential oils ok to use include some of the citrus peel oils (like mandarin or tangerine) or lavender (depends on the species; recommended is L. angustofolia. You probably shouldn't use Lavendula latifolia aka spike lavender since that is high in camphor; all camphor rich oils should be avoided). But there seems to be conflict with many authors lists from what I've seen. Like several authors list chamomile and rose as okay to use, but then another listed it to be used with caution during pregnancy (though it can be used). Geranium has been cited by many authors as safe to use; but that never made since to me since geranium can have hormone-like activity. (Tisserand and Balacs listed both chamomiles, rose, and geranium as safe to use, and I generally trust their suggestions since they have conducted a lot of scientific tests on the essential oils; though their book is from 2000 so may be a little dated)
Saturday, October 21, 2006
More on Natural Perfume Making and Essential Oil Concentrations/Diluting Essential Oils (Aromatherapy)
I'm allergic to many synthetics which is why I switched to all natural products about 6 years back. Most commerical perfumes are made with hundreds of chemical components, and only a small amount of pure essential oil.
I've previously blogged about perfume concentrations and how to miy and where to buy perfume but I decided to post some more information.
How do I dilute essential oils to 1%, 2%, etc concentration?
To make a 1% essential oil concentration, add 6 drops of an essential oil (or essential oil blend) in 1 ounce of carrier. To make a 2% concentration, add 12 drops of essential oils in 1 ounce. There are 300-600 drops of liquid in an ounce, so you can calculate the rest.
Note: Never use more than a 2% concentration in a massage oil/body oil/cream/serum etc (most products). So whether you use one essential oil or twenty essential oils, don't use more than 12 drops total. The only exception is perfume, in which you would use up to a 30% concentration (the reason why such a high concentration is okay in perfumes is because you'd only use a couple drops of the product versus a teaspoon or more of the lotion etc. So the actual essential oil concentration you put on your skin is fairly low). And never apply essential oils neat to the skin (though some books say you can apply lavender and tea tree neat, this is only during emergencies like insect bites and only like a drop once or twice.) Always dilute for daily use.(When I hear that people apply large amounts of essential oils neat to their skin, I cringe because there have been some reports of fatal toxicity of certain essential oils in large amounts (around a teaspoon)).
What are top, middle, and base notes? And what are the best aromatherapy perfume making books?
A lot of basic aromatherapy texts explain top, middle, and base notes. But the best aromatherapy book I've found that focuses on perfume is Mindy Green's "The Natural Perfume Book". It is a small book but it gives a good overview on perfume making and also contains over 30 recipes; but it is out of print and when you can find it online, it is expensive; so try used book stores or try to request it through your local library. Mindy Green's and Kathi Keville's Aromatherapy: A complete guide to the healing art has a small section discussing perfume making (but only contains a few recipes), and is also a good overall aromatherapy primer. Mandy Aftel's book Essence and Alchemy is considered one of the best, and I think it gives a good overview on the history and also components of natural perfumes, however it hardly contains any recipes (just like 3 or 4). Nancy Booth's Perfumes, splashes, and colonges also has very good background info, however she includes fragrance oils along with essential oils in her recipes. i think it's a good reference but I don't use FOs so I found Green's book to be much more helpful. I've also heard that Chrissie Wildwood's Create Your Own Aromatherapy Perfumes: Enchanting Blends for Body and Home (2nd edition) is fantastic but it is out of print too and I haven't been able to get my hands on an inexpensive copy yet.
See my links for other aromatherapy books and online resources. I highly recommend getting at least three good aromatherapy primers in addition to the books above.
I've previously blogged about perfume concentrations and how to miy and where to buy perfume but I decided to post some more information.
How do I dilute essential oils to 1%, 2%, etc concentration?
To make a 1% essential oil concentration, add 6 drops of an essential oil (or essential oil blend) in 1 ounce of carrier. To make a 2% concentration, add 12 drops of essential oils in 1 ounce. There are 300-600 drops of liquid in an ounce, so you can calculate the rest.
Note: Never use more than a 2% concentration in a massage oil/body oil/cream/serum etc (most products). So whether you use one essential oil or twenty essential oils, don't use more than 12 drops total. The only exception is perfume, in which you would use up to a 30% concentration (the reason why such a high concentration is okay in perfumes is because you'd only use a couple drops of the product versus a teaspoon or more of the lotion etc. So the actual essential oil concentration you put on your skin is fairly low). And never apply essential oils neat to the skin (though some books say you can apply lavender and tea tree neat, this is only during emergencies like insect bites and only like a drop once or twice.) Always dilute for daily use.(When I hear that people apply large amounts of essential oils neat to their skin, I cringe because there have been some reports of fatal toxicity of certain essential oils in large amounts (around a teaspoon)).
What are top, middle, and base notes? And what are the best aromatherapy perfume making books?
A lot of basic aromatherapy texts explain top, middle, and base notes. But the best aromatherapy book I've found that focuses on perfume is Mindy Green's "The Natural Perfume Book". It is a small book but it gives a good overview on perfume making and also contains over 30 recipes; but it is out of print and when you can find it online, it is expensive; so try used book stores or try to request it through your local library. Mindy Green's and Kathi Keville's Aromatherapy: A complete guide to the healing art has a small section discussing perfume making (but only contains a few recipes), and is also a good overall aromatherapy primer. Mandy Aftel's book Essence and Alchemy is considered one of the best, and I think it gives a good overview on the history and also components of natural perfumes, however it hardly contains any recipes (just like 3 or 4). Nancy Booth's Perfumes, splashes, and colonges also has very good background info, however she includes fragrance oils along with essential oils in her recipes. i think it's a good reference but I don't use FOs so I found Green's book to be much more helpful. I've also heard that Chrissie Wildwood's Create Your Own Aromatherapy Perfumes: Enchanting Blends for Body and Home (2nd edition) is fantastic but it is out of print too and I haven't been able to get my hands on an inexpensive copy yet.
See my links for other aromatherapy books and online resources. I highly recommend getting at least three good aromatherapy primers in addition to the books above.
Monday, October 16, 2006
Breakdown of Natural and Synthetic Ingredients in a Cream (Natural Skin Care)
Which ingredients in my handcrafted cream are natural and which are synthetic?
Sometimes it can be tricky separating what's natural from what's synthetic because there is no regulation of what "natural" is.
But I try to use ingredients as natural as possible :)
Natural:
Shea butter
Apricot kernel oil
Coconut oil
Aloe vera
Distilled water
Essential oils
Synthetic or Natural:
Vitamin E--can be natural or synthetically derived
Glycerine--can be synthetically derived from petroleum or naturally derived from vegetable oils
Synthetic:
Germaben or Optiphen--synthetic preservatives
These are tricky:
stearic acid--I would say most people in the natural cosmetic industry consider this natural since it is a fatty acid; it is obtained from the hydrolis of fats or synthesis. But I think some people in the natural industry don't consider it natural because it is a component of fat and not the complete fat (the fat had to be broken down to get the fatty acid).
I should clarify that fatty acids are natural/found in nature; fats are composed of 1 to 3 fatty acid chains plus glycerine.
Emulsifying wax--I've seen this in many natural lines, but I'd say most people in the natural industry consider it synthetic. It can either be plant based or petroleum based; the wax is then treated with some sort of detergent (like SLS) or polysorbates. (So it may have some natural plant components but it is so processed in the end, that it isn't considered natural; it's not found in nature). But many natural companies use it because it is a more stable emulsion than beeswax/borax cream (which sometimes separates).
Sometimes it can be tricky separating what's natural from what's synthetic because there is no regulation of what "natural" is.
But I try to use ingredients as natural as possible :)
Natural:
Shea butter
Apricot kernel oil
Coconut oil
Aloe vera
Distilled water
Essential oils
Synthetic or Natural:
Vitamin E--can be natural or synthetically derived
Glycerine--can be synthetically derived from petroleum or naturally derived from vegetable oils
Synthetic:
Germaben or Optiphen--synthetic preservatives
These are tricky:
stearic acid--I would say most people in the natural cosmetic industry consider this natural since it is a fatty acid; it is obtained from the hydrolis of fats or synthesis. But I think some people in the natural industry don't consider it natural because it is a component of fat and not the complete fat (the fat had to be broken down to get the fatty acid).
I should clarify that fatty acids are natural/found in nature; fats are composed of 1 to 3 fatty acid chains plus glycerine.
Emulsifying wax--I've seen this in many natural lines, but I'd say most people in the natural industry consider it synthetic. It can either be plant based or petroleum based; the wax is then treated with some sort of detergent (like SLS) or polysorbates. (So it may have some natural plant components but it is so processed in the end, that it isn't considered natural; it's not found in nature). But many natural companies use it because it is a more stable emulsion than beeswax/borax cream (which sometimes separates).
Shelf Life of Tinctures (Natural Skin Care/Medicine)
What is the shelf life of tinctures aka herbal extracts?
Some books say that tinctures aka herbal extracts have a shelf life of 2 years, but other books (which I consider better herbals) say 6 years or indefinitely. On the other hand, glycerites, a tincture made with glycerin instead of alcohol, have a shelf life of 1 year.
Some books say that tinctures aka herbal extracts have a shelf life of 2 years, but other books (which I consider better herbals) say 6 years or indefinitely. On the other hand, glycerites, a tincture made with glycerin instead of alcohol, have a shelf life of 1 year.
Thursday, October 05, 2006
Shelf life of kukui nut oil, jojoba oil, and evening primrose oil (Natural Skin Care)
What is the shelf life of kukui nut oil, jojoba oil, and evening primrose oil?
Kukui nut oil has a shelf life of 12-14 months, and evening primrose's shelf life is only about 6 months. Jojoba oil is good for several years because it is really a liquid wax and not an oil. Storing in the fridge will increase shelf life.
Kukui nut oil is one of the lightest oils around and absorbs instantly. Evening primrose oil (EPR) is a bit heavier in weight (but still absorbs quickly) and needs to be mixed with another carrier oil. EPR has a higher concentration of linolenic acid than kukui nut oil. Jojoba is a light-medium weight oil that absorbs quickly and is similar to the skin's natural sebum.
Kukui nut oil and EPR have some of the same properites but are very different oils. For oil properties you can go on Mountain Rose Herbs' website, and next to each oil click on the 'learn more' links. Nature's Gift and Aromaweb also have oil profiles.
Kukui nut oil has a shelf life of 12-14 months, and evening primrose's shelf life is only about 6 months. Jojoba oil is good for several years because it is really a liquid wax and not an oil. Storing in the fridge will increase shelf life.
Kukui nut oil is one of the lightest oils around and absorbs instantly. Evening primrose oil (EPR) is a bit heavier in weight (but still absorbs quickly) and needs to be mixed with another carrier oil. EPR has a higher concentration of linolenic acid than kukui nut oil. Jojoba is a light-medium weight oil that absorbs quickly and is similar to the skin's natural sebum.
Kukui nut oil and EPR have some of the same properites but are very different oils. For oil properties you can go on Mountain Rose Herbs' website, and next to each oil click on the 'learn more' links. Nature's Gift and Aromaweb also have oil profiles.
Friday, September 29, 2006
More phototoxic essential oils, essential oils for shingles, cedarwood essential oil and insect repellents (Aromatherapy/Medicine)
I've already blogged a bit about orange essential oils and phototoxicity, here's so more info on other citrus oils.
Are lemon and tangerine essential oils phototoxic?
Not all citrus oils are phototoxic. For example, while expressed lemon and lime essential oils are phototoxic, distilled lemon and lime essential oils aren't phototoxic. And also tangerine and mandarin essential oils (C. reticulata) aren't phototoxic . One essential oil that isn't a citrus oil but that is phototoxic is angelica root.
What essential oils are good for shingles?
Chamomile and lemon balm aka melissa. Be sure to buy melissa from a reputable source since it is often adulterated (it is expensive). Be sure to dilute in a carrier, of course!
Is cedarwood essential oil an insect repellent?
There are two kinds of cedarwood essential oil: Virginia cedarwood (Juniperus virginiana) and atlas cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica). Virginia cedarwood is actually a juniper; it has some of the similiar properites with true atlas cedarwood, but since it is a different tree species all the properites are not the same.
I usually use atlas to repell bugs but aromaweb mentions you can also use VA. Lavender essential oil is also good.
Are lemon and tangerine essential oils phototoxic?
Not all citrus oils are phototoxic. For example, while expressed lemon and lime essential oils are phototoxic, distilled lemon and lime essential oils aren't phototoxic. And also tangerine and mandarin essential oils (C. reticulata) aren't phototoxic . One essential oil that isn't a citrus oil but that is phototoxic is angelica root.
What essential oils are good for shingles?
Chamomile and lemon balm aka melissa. Be sure to buy melissa from a reputable source since it is often adulterated (it is expensive). Be sure to dilute in a carrier, of course!
Is cedarwood essential oil an insect repellent?
There are two kinds of cedarwood essential oil: Virginia cedarwood (Juniperus virginiana) and atlas cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica). Virginia cedarwood is actually a juniper; it has some of the similiar properites with true atlas cedarwood, but since it is a different tree species all the properites are not the same.
I usually use atlas to repell bugs but aromaweb mentions you can also use VA. Lavender essential oil is also good.
Friday, September 22, 2006
Facial oils/serums, scars, and discoloration (Natural Skin Care)
New FAQ
What is a serum, and how do you make one?
Basically a serum is a type of moisturizer for your skin that is a liquid, and often jammed packed with ingredients that contain a lot of vitamins and nutrients. There are many kinds of serums. Serums are usually oil based or water based. Some contain both oils and waters. They can be used under or over or in place of creams and lotions, depending on the serum. They differ from creams and lotions in that they are usually not made with emulsifiers, hence are liquid. However there are some made with emulsifiers, and those are usually a little thicker like gels. They are often lighter in weight than creams and lotions, and are seen as special treatment products.
I haven't made a water based serum yet, but I have made oil based serums which are basically made with carrier oils and essential oils. Oil based serums are also called facial oils.
A basic formula for an oil based serum:
1 ounce of carrier oil for your skin type
6-12 drops of essential oils for your skin type
a few drops of vitamin E
To a 1 ounce colored glass bottle, add 6-12 drops of essential oils, and then fill the bottle with a carrier oil. This will make a 1-2% concentration of essential oil. For people with sensitive skin, you may want to use less than 6 drops of essential oil. For women who are pregnant, or people who have medical conditions please consult with a doctor and aromatherapist before use.
Where do I buy facial serums?
If you would rather buy them than make them, Mountain Rose Herbs and Nature's Gift both sell many excellent oil based serums. Garden of Wisdom sells several water based serums. Aubrey Organic sells two night creams (a green tea one and a rose hip/shea butter one) that are more like gel-like serums than creams. I LOVE the AO night creams. Burt's Bees sells an awesome oil based serum called "repair serum" that contains rosehip seed oil, green tea extract, and lavender and neroli essential oils.
What carrier oils and essential oils can I use to improve the clarity of my skin, and help with discoloration/scars?
To improve the health of your skin, I suggest camellia oil (which is from the green tea plant) which is good for all skin types (it is one of the lightest oils and soaks in immediately). To help with the discoloration, try rosehip seed oil which is good for healing old and new scars, so may help with discoloration also. It is usually used for dry to normal skin (and should not be used on skin with acne) so you should probably mix it with another oil.
For essential oils, I recommend helichrysum essential oil. Other essential oils that are good to regenerate the skin are lavender, neroli, frankincense and petitgrain.
A classic aromatherapy serum is rosehip seed oil with helichrysum essential oil.
Rosehip seed oil is usually a carrier oil but you can also get the CO2 extract as well.
Also good product for scars is shea butter
What is a serum, and how do you make one?
Basically a serum is a type of moisturizer for your skin that is a liquid, and often jammed packed with ingredients that contain a lot of vitamins and nutrients. There are many kinds of serums. Serums are usually oil based or water based. Some contain both oils and waters. They can be used under or over or in place of creams and lotions, depending on the serum. They differ from creams and lotions in that they are usually not made with emulsifiers, hence are liquid. However there are some made with emulsifiers, and those are usually a little thicker like gels. They are often lighter in weight than creams and lotions, and are seen as special treatment products.
I haven't made a water based serum yet, but I have made oil based serums which are basically made with carrier oils and essential oils. Oil based serums are also called facial oils.
A basic formula for an oil based serum:
1 ounce of carrier oil for your skin type
6-12 drops of essential oils for your skin type
a few drops of vitamin E
To a 1 ounce colored glass bottle, add 6-12 drops of essential oils, and then fill the bottle with a carrier oil. This will make a 1-2% concentration of essential oil. For people with sensitive skin, you may want to use less than 6 drops of essential oil. For women who are pregnant, or people who have medical conditions please consult with a doctor and aromatherapist before use.
Where do I buy facial serums?
If you would rather buy them than make them, Mountain Rose Herbs and Nature's Gift both sell many excellent oil based serums. Garden of Wisdom sells several water based serums. Aubrey Organic sells two night creams (a green tea one and a rose hip/shea butter one) that are more like gel-like serums than creams. I LOVE the AO night creams. Burt's Bees sells an awesome oil based serum called "repair serum" that contains rosehip seed oil, green tea extract, and lavender and neroli essential oils.
What carrier oils and essential oils can I use to improve the clarity of my skin, and help with discoloration/scars?
To improve the health of your skin, I suggest camellia oil (which is from the green tea plant) which is good for all skin types (it is one of the lightest oils and soaks in immediately). To help with the discoloration, try rosehip seed oil which is good for healing old and new scars, so may help with discoloration also. It is usually used for dry to normal skin (and should not be used on skin with acne) so you should probably mix it with another oil.
For essential oils, I recommend helichrysum essential oil. Other essential oils that are good to regenerate the skin are lavender, neroli, frankincense and petitgrain.
A classic aromatherapy serum is rosehip seed oil with helichrysum essential oil.
Rosehip seed oil is usually a carrier oil but you can also get the CO2 extract as well.
Also good product for scars is shea butter
Wednesday, September 13, 2006
Yet More On Natural Preservatives and Antioxidants (All Natural Cosmetics)
I posted a lot of information on natural preservatives on two different forums several days ago, so here's what I posted (I added some more new information) in case you missed it :) You can also see my links (right hand side of this blog) for several more entries I've written on the topic.
I want to make all natural cosmetics; what natural preservatives can I use?
There are several natural preservatives you can use, however, it should be noted that while they are effective, products preserved with natural preservatives will have a much shorter shelf life than products preserved with synthetic preservatives.
For example, in water based products or products where oils and waters are emulsified together (like creams and lotions), the shelf life is only one to several months (be sure to buy from a company that makes their creams fresh!). Though some companies creams and lotions (for example: Aubrey Organics and Dr. Bronnner's) are usually good up to a year. Another thing that helps prolong shelf life is a squeeze or pump bottle since that prevents bacteria from your hands from getting into the product (which is a problem if the product is in a jar). Also what will help is NOT storing your cosmetics in a humid place like your bathroom.
But in products with no water like balms, butters, oil based serums, perfumes, salt and sugar scrubs (oil based, no water), bath/body oils, etc, and also liquid soap (the exception) the shelf life is several months to a year depending on the natural preservatives used, the kind of product, storage, type of bottle, combination of preservatives, and use.
Products preserved with commerical, synthetic preservatives have a very long shelf life of 2 or 3 years.
Some natural ingredients have a very, very long shelf life on their own with no preservatives like powder mineral makeup (pretty much is fresh forever), and some carrier oils like plain, pure jojoba oil (nothing else mixed with it) which is good for 2-3 years. Many other carrier oils and butters (plain carrier oils and butters that have not been mixed with any other ingredients, with the exception of vitamin E, A, and C) also have a long shelf life. Also honey (nothing else added) has a long shelf life. (If you mix these ingredients with other ingredients, that of course will shorten their shelf life).
I've found that the most effective preservation method (for personal use; I do not run a business, at least not yet! Wicked laugh! ;) ) is a combination of antioxidants and natural preservatives. I use at least three or more in my creams. Most natural companies that I've tried also use a combo.
Vitamin E, A, and C are antioxidants. I like using vitamin E as some forms of vitamin C can be unstable.
Herbal extracts are both antioxidants and preservatives. Many herbs are antiseptic, and most extracts are extracted with alcohol, which is an effective preservative. (One popular brand, Dr. Bronner's uses a combo of alcohol and essential oils and a pump bottle (so no dirty fingers in product) to preserve their products). But its effectiveness will depend on the herb used of course. Some herbs are more antibacterial or antiseptic than others.
Most essential oils are antibacterial and antiseptic, as well as antioxidant. Some are antiviral and antifungal as well (many scientific studies have been done on the antibacterial properties of essential oils). Lavender and tea tree are all of these. They also have many skin benefits (depending on the essential oil), but be careful as some can be irritating especially if used in the incorrect concentration.
Biopein and Neopein and also Suprapein are supposed to be very effective. They are basically a blend of certain herbal extracts.
Articles on the manufacturer's website contain results/information from tests done on these preservatives. If you are making products for a business, these are probably your best bet.
Grapefruit Seed Extract
There is conflicting info on how natural and also how effective it is. Some brands are contaminated with synethtic preservatives like parabens. But gfs extract (the ones not contaminated with synthetic preservatives) has been found to be non-toxic. There is a debate on whether it is an antioxidant or a preservative. It seems like half the natural industry claims it is natural and effective, and the other half doesn't! A lot of people also confuse gfs extract with grapefruit essential oil and grapeseed oil, which are totally different ingredients (one is an essential oil and the other is a carrier oil).
I personally have never had a problem with my creams going bad, but I craft in very small amounts and also use up my creams within a month. I used to generally use vitamin E with 3-6 essential oils, and grapefruit seed extract. But with all the conflict with gfs extract, I am looking into using the herbal extracts along with vitamin E and essential oils.
I worry about giving people my creams. I have no problem with giving friends balms, perfumes, bath oils, scrubs, etc, but I worry about the creams. Because many people stick products in their cabinet in the bathroom (gasp! The WORST place you can store your natural cosmetics) and forget about it.
I want to make all natural cosmetics; what natural preservatives can I use?
There are several natural preservatives you can use, however, it should be noted that while they are effective, products preserved with natural preservatives will have a much shorter shelf life than products preserved with synthetic preservatives.
For example, in water based products or products where oils and waters are emulsified together (like creams and lotions), the shelf life is only one to several months (be sure to buy from a company that makes their creams fresh!). Though some companies creams and lotions (for example: Aubrey Organics and Dr. Bronnner's) are usually good up to a year. Another thing that helps prolong shelf life is a squeeze or pump bottle since that prevents bacteria from your hands from getting into the product (which is a problem if the product is in a jar). Also what will help is NOT storing your cosmetics in a humid place like your bathroom.
But in products with no water like balms, butters, oil based serums, perfumes, salt and sugar scrubs (oil based, no water), bath/body oils, etc, and also liquid soap (the exception) the shelf life is several months to a year depending on the natural preservatives used, the kind of product, storage, type of bottle, combination of preservatives, and use.
Products preserved with commerical, synthetic preservatives have a very long shelf life of 2 or 3 years.
Some natural ingredients have a very, very long shelf life on their own with no preservatives like powder mineral makeup (pretty much is fresh forever), and some carrier oils like plain, pure jojoba oil (nothing else mixed with it) which is good for 2-3 years. Many other carrier oils and butters (plain carrier oils and butters that have not been mixed with any other ingredients, with the exception of vitamin E, A, and C) also have a long shelf life. Also honey (nothing else added) has a long shelf life. (If you mix these ingredients with other ingredients, that of course will shorten their shelf life).
I've found that the most effective preservation method (for personal use; I do not run a business, at least not yet! Wicked laugh! ;) ) is a combination of antioxidants and natural preservatives. I use at least three or more in my creams. Most natural companies that I've tried also use a combo.
Vitamin E, A, and C are antioxidants. I like using vitamin E as some forms of vitamin C can be unstable.
Herbal extracts are both antioxidants and preservatives. Many herbs are antiseptic, and most extracts are extracted with alcohol, which is an effective preservative. (One popular brand, Dr. Bronner's uses a combo of alcohol and essential oils and a pump bottle (so no dirty fingers in product) to preserve their products). But its effectiveness will depend on the herb used of course. Some herbs are more antibacterial or antiseptic than others.
Most essential oils are antibacterial and antiseptic, as well as antioxidant. Some are antiviral and antifungal as well (many scientific studies have been done on the antibacterial properties of essential oils). Lavender and tea tree are all of these. They also have many skin benefits (depending on the essential oil), but be careful as some can be irritating especially if used in the incorrect concentration.
Biopein and Neopein and also Suprapein are supposed to be very effective. They are basically a blend of certain herbal extracts.
Articles on the manufacturer's website contain results/information from tests done on these preservatives. If you are making products for a business, these are probably your best bet.
Grapefruit Seed Extract
There is conflicting info on how natural and also how effective it is. Some brands are contaminated with synethtic preservatives like parabens. But gfs extract (the ones not contaminated with synthetic preservatives) has been found to be non-toxic. There is a debate on whether it is an antioxidant or a preservative. It seems like half the natural industry claims it is natural and effective, and the other half doesn't! A lot of people also confuse gfs extract with grapefruit essential oil and grapeseed oil, which are totally different ingredients (one is an essential oil and the other is a carrier oil).
I personally have never had a problem with my creams going bad, but I craft in very small amounts and also use up my creams within a month. I used to generally use vitamin E with 3-6 essential oils, and grapefruit seed extract. But with all the conflict with gfs extract, I am looking into using the herbal extracts along with vitamin E and essential oils.
I worry about giving people my creams. I have no problem with giving friends balms, perfumes, bath oils, scrubs, etc, but I worry about the creams. Because many people stick products in their cabinet in the bathroom (gasp! The WORST place you can store your natural cosmetics) and forget about it.
Saturday, September 09, 2006
More MIY Mineral Makeup Information! (Mineral Makeup/All Natural Makeup)
Link to EPA's ruling of Ferric Ferrocyanide and the Clean Water Act.
It's so hard to make purple shades since I don't use carmine or Ferric Ferrocyanide but I have made a couple nice purple shades by combining different micas and pigments!
It's so hard to make purple shades since I don't use carmine or Ferric Ferrocyanide but I have made a couple nice purple shades by combining different micas and pigments!
Thursday, September 07, 2006
More Tips for Crafting MMU/Definitions of MMU Ingredients (Mineral Makeup/All Natural Makeup)
I posted about crafting mineral makeup not too long ago (click here to see the post), but I wrote about more tips and also info about the ingredients used in MMU on one of the forums I visit a few days ago and am posting the info here with a little bit of added info:
Can I use silca in my eyeshadow, blush, foundation etc?
You can try silca as a base too! I haven't used it myself but it may work! There is debate about the safety of silca though (It is a natural mineral/rock). Still researching about it and deciding if I want to use it or not.
How well do different minerals adhere to the skin? Are all micas shimmery?
For adherence and micas, it depends on the particle size. Micas like serecite with smaller particle size will adhere better than micas with big sparkles. You can add a bit of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to help with adherence but many of the colored micas are coated with titanium dioxide so have good adherence anyways.
Not all micas are shimmery, depends on particle size and what they are coated with; titanium dioxide makes micas shiny. Serecite (uncolored mica) is kind of flat.
Also if you mix colored micas to certain bases like serecite it will make the shimmer colors more flat. Check out the tkb trading blog; I think there are pictures where they show how different bases can make the same color look different.
Can you tell me about certain ingredients used in mineral makeup?
Okay definitions; still trying to compile them myself but here's some explanations.
Iron oxides are pigments and are basically iron oxidation (like rust on a bike!). they occur naturally in the earth, but for cosmetic purposes naturally mined iron salts are taken in a lab and then oxided since natural iron oxides from the earth have a lot of toxins in them. You can buy just the pure iron oxide pigments (which need to be mixed with a base) or many micas are coated with them.
Mica is a type of natural mineral/rock.
Serecite is simply uncolored mica. It is usually a white/off white color.
Carmine is a red/purple colorant made from the crushed shells of beetles used in cosmetics and also food. I do not use it because I am veggie. it is generally non-toxic but can cause heart problems in some people who are allergic to it. Many pink/red/purple micas are coated with carmine.
D&C Alum lake and F D&C colors are synthetic colorants. Many people are allergic to certain colors and there is debate on how toxic/irritating some colors are. I don't use them because I try to use cosmetics that are as natural as I can get and I am concerned with the toxicity of some of them.
Ferric Ferrocyanide is a blue synthetic pigment. There is debate on whether it is safe to use in cosmetics--some people say no and some yes (hasn't been much testing done on it for use in cosmetics), but it is listed by the EPA as a water pollutant, and is also neurotoxin/respiratory toxin (it is a cyanide). I personally don't want to use it; even if it may be safe to use in cosmetics I am an environmentalist so don't use it.
Chromium oxide: some people are allergic. It is a pigment.
Ultramarines, used to be made from crushed gem stones but now made in the lab synthetically, from natural clays I think. I use them because although some things are bluish (I'm thinking about the coated micas like blackstar blue and splendid blue), there really is no true blue natural pigment in cosmetics (it is really rare and very, very expensive to find natural ultramarine blue).
Talc is a natural mineral/rock but i don't use it because it is often contaminated with asbestos (which can cause cancer) and there has been studies that has shown that non-asbestos contaminated talc may also cause higher rates of cancer.
Maganese violet is a pigment.
Mother of Pearl makes eye shadows shiny. I don't use this because I'm veggie and many colored micas with large particle size are very shimmery!
Bismuth oxychloride is a white pigment. It gives a sheen to MMU. However, some women are allergic to it. I haven't used it yet so I don't know if I am allergic or not, but I don't like shiny foundation so haven't tried any brands that use it yet.
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are both natural minerals. Both are great sunscreens and also may help reduce inflammation in the skin (especially the zinc oxide, and also because of the fact there aren't any/many fillers in mineral makeup).
From my understanding, most pigments are lab created/synthetically derived but made from natural ingredients. They are borderline natural, borderline synthetic; depends where you draw the line on what's natural. Most people in the natural industry consider them natural, but critics point out why use iron oxides/ultramarine blue and not D & C colors? My viewpoint is that iron oxides and ultramarines does occur in natural but for safety reasons are made from natural ingredients in the lab, so I consider them natural.
More tips
I've also read that you shouldn't mix colored micas for very long (only a few minutes) because that can damage the shimmer of them.
Can I use silca in my eyeshadow, blush, foundation etc?
You can try silca as a base too! I haven't used it myself but it may work! There is debate about the safety of silca though (It is a natural mineral/rock). Still researching about it and deciding if I want to use it or not.
How well do different minerals adhere to the skin? Are all micas shimmery?
For adherence and micas, it depends on the particle size. Micas like serecite with smaller particle size will adhere better than micas with big sparkles. You can add a bit of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to help with adherence but many of the colored micas are coated with titanium dioxide so have good adherence anyways.
Not all micas are shimmery, depends on particle size and what they are coated with; titanium dioxide makes micas shiny. Serecite (uncolored mica) is kind of flat.
Also if you mix colored micas to certain bases like serecite it will make the shimmer colors more flat. Check out the tkb trading blog; I think there are pictures where they show how different bases can make the same color look different.
Can you tell me about certain ingredients used in mineral makeup?
Okay definitions; still trying to compile them myself but here's some explanations.
Iron oxides are pigments and are basically iron oxidation (like rust on a bike!). they occur naturally in the earth, but for cosmetic purposes naturally mined iron salts are taken in a lab and then oxided since natural iron oxides from the earth have a lot of toxins in them. You can buy just the pure iron oxide pigments (which need to be mixed with a base) or many micas are coated with them.
Mica is a type of natural mineral/rock.
Serecite is simply uncolored mica. It is usually a white/off white color.
Carmine is a red/purple colorant made from the crushed shells of beetles used in cosmetics and also food. I do not use it because I am veggie. it is generally non-toxic but can cause heart problems in some people who are allergic to it. Many pink/red/purple micas are coated with carmine.
D&C Alum lake and F D&C colors are synthetic colorants. Many people are allergic to certain colors and there is debate on how toxic/irritating some colors are. I don't use them because I try to use cosmetics that are as natural as I can get and I am concerned with the toxicity of some of them.
Ferric Ferrocyanide is a blue synthetic pigment. There is debate on whether it is safe to use in cosmetics--some people say no and some yes (hasn't been much testing done on it for use in cosmetics), but it is listed by the EPA as a water pollutant, and is also neurotoxin/respiratory toxin (it is a cyanide). I personally don't want to use it; even if it may be safe to use in cosmetics I am an environmentalist so don't use it.
Chromium oxide: some people are allergic. It is a pigment.
Ultramarines, used to be made from crushed gem stones but now made in the lab synthetically, from natural clays I think. I use them because although some things are bluish (I'm thinking about the coated micas like blackstar blue and splendid blue), there really is no true blue natural pigment in cosmetics (it is really rare and very, very expensive to find natural ultramarine blue).
Talc is a natural mineral/rock but i don't use it because it is often contaminated with asbestos (which can cause cancer) and there has been studies that has shown that non-asbestos contaminated talc may also cause higher rates of cancer.
Maganese violet is a pigment.
Mother of Pearl makes eye shadows shiny. I don't use this because I'm veggie and many colored micas with large particle size are very shimmery!
Bismuth oxychloride is a white pigment. It gives a sheen to MMU. However, some women are allergic to it. I haven't used it yet so I don't know if I am allergic or not, but I don't like shiny foundation so haven't tried any brands that use it yet.
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are both natural minerals. Both are great sunscreens and also may help reduce inflammation in the skin (especially the zinc oxide, and also because of the fact there aren't any/many fillers in mineral makeup).
From my understanding, most pigments are lab created/synthetically derived but made from natural ingredients. They are borderline natural, borderline synthetic; depends where you draw the line on what's natural. Most people in the natural industry consider them natural, but critics point out why use iron oxides/ultramarine blue and not D & C colors? My viewpoint is that iron oxides and ultramarines does occur in natural but for safety reasons are made from natural ingredients in the lab, so I consider them natural.
More tips
I've also read that you shouldn't mix colored micas for very long (only a few minutes) because that can damage the shimmer of them.
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