More Tips for Crafting MMU/Definitions of MMU Ingredients (Mineral Makeup/All Natural Makeup)

I posted about crafting mineral makeup not too long ago (click here to see the post), but I wrote about more tips and also info about the ingredients used in MMU on one of the forums I visit a few days ago and am posting the info here with a little bit of added info:

Can I use silca in my eyeshadow, blush, foundation etc?

You can try silca as a base too! I haven't used it myself but it may work! There is debate about the safety of silca though (It is a natural mineral/rock). Still researching about it and deciding if I want to use it or not.

How well do different minerals adhere to the skin? Are all micas shimmery?

For adherence and micas, it depends on the particle size. Micas like serecite with smaller particle size will adhere better than micas with big sparkles. You can add a bit of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to help with adherence but many of the colored micas are coated with titanium dioxide so have good adherence anyways.

Not all micas are shimmery, depends on particle size and what they are coated with; titanium dioxide makes micas shiny. Serecite (uncolored mica) is kind of flat.

Also if you mix colored micas to certain bases like serecite it will make the shimmer colors more flat. Check out the tkb trading blog; I think there are pictures where they show how different bases can make the same color look different.

Can you tell me about certain ingredients used in mineral makeup?

Okay definitions; still trying to compile them myself but here's some explanations.

Iron oxides are pigments and are basically iron oxidation (like rust on a bike!). they occur naturally in the earth, but for cosmetic purposes naturally mined iron salts are taken in a lab and then oxided since natural iron oxides from the earth have a lot of toxins in them. You can buy just the pure iron oxide pigments (which need to be mixed with a base) or many micas are coated with them.

Mica is a type of natural mineral/rock.

Serecite is simply uncolored mica. It is usually a white/off white color.

Carmine is a red/purple colorant made from the crushed shells of beetles used in cosmetics and also food. I do not use it because I am veggie. it is generally non-toxic but can cause heart problems in some people who are allergic to it. Many pink/red/purple micas are coated with carmine.

D&C Alum lake and F D&C colors are synthetic colorants. Many people are allergic to certain colors and there is debate on how toxic/irritating some colors are. I don't use them because I try to use cosmetics that are as natural as I can get and I am concerned with the toxicity of some of them.

Ferric Ferrocyanide is a blue synthetic pigment. There is debate on whether it is safe to use in cosmetics--some people say no and some yes (hasn't been much testing done on it for use in cosmetics), but it is listed by the EPA as a water pollutant, and is also neurotoxin/respiratory toxin (it is a cyanide). I personally don't want to use it; even if it may be safe to use in cosmetics I am an environmentalist so don't use it.


Chromium oxide: some people are allergic. It is a pigment.

Ultramarines, used to be made from crushed gem stones but now made in the lab synthetically, from natural clays I think. I use them because although some things are bluish (I'm thinking about the coated micas like blackstar blue and splendid blue), there really is no true blue natural pigment in cosmetics (it is really rare and very, very expensive to find natural ultramarine blue).

Talc is a natural mineral/rock but i don't use it because it is often contaminated with asbestos (which can cause cancer) and there has been studies that has shown that non-asbestos contaminated talc may also cause higher rates of cancer.

Maganese violet is a pigment.

Mother of Pearl makes eye shadows shiny. I don't use this because I'm veggie and many colored micas with large particle size are very shimmery!

Bismuth oxychloride is a white pigment. It gives a sheen to MMU. However, some women are allergic to it. I haven't used it yet so I don't know if I am allergic or not, but I don't like shiny foundation so haven't tried any brands that use it yet.

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are both natural minerals. Both are great sunscreens and also may help reduce inflammation in the skin (especially the zinc oxide, and also because of the fact there aren't any/many fillers in mineral makeup).

From my understanding, most pigments are lab created/synthetically derived but made from natural ingredients. They are borderline natural, borderline synthetic; depends where you draw the line on what's natural. Most people in the natural industry consider them natural, but critics point out why use iron oxides/ultramarine blue and not D & C colors? My viewpoint is that iron oxides and ultramarines does occur in natural but for safety reasons are made from natural ingredients in the lab, so I consider them natural.

More tips


I've also read that you shouldn't mix colored micas for very long (only a few minutes) because that can damage the shimmer of them.

Assumptions of Asian Beauty (Asian/Asian American Issues)

I know I said I'd be away but just wanted to post today (hey, it's the beginning of the semester, so I'm not super crazy-busy yet!)

I was just on a forum, and someone basically posted 'why do asians try to look non-asian/caucasian: getting surgury on their eyelids, coloring their hair, and bleaching their skin'. That post kind of annoyed me, because a lot of people assume that just because an Asian person colors their hair or has the double lids or has light skin or who don't have perfectly straight hair is trying to look caucasian. True, some people may be trying to, but just because a person looks a certain way or chooses to alter their appearance does not neccessary mean that they hate the way they look and are trying to look like someone else.

As many of you know, I am of Asian descent: Chinese-American actually, meaning my family is originally from China, but I am an American (another assumption a lot people make is that people of Asian descent can't be Americans as well. I guess that they don't know that it was a Chinese-American who won the right in the late 1800s that that if you're born on U.S. land, you are an American citizen. But that is a post for another day).

Growing up I had very, very dark brown almost black hair (not true black), and it's only been within the last few years it's been true black (since I've started using natural cosmetics. I don't know if it's because natural cosmetics don't dry my hair as much, or that I just don't spend as much time in the sun or what; anyways it's black now). Also I was born with curly hair, which straightened out as I grew up. Nowadays I prefer my natural hair color, but in college (eight years ago) I did dye red hairlights in my hair twice, because I thought it was pretty and interesting.

I was born with double lids, similar to everyone else in my family (both my dad's and mom's side). Many people don't know this, but actually about 25% of Asians naturally have double lids.

I have light-medium skin; not as pale as some Asians are, but not as dark as others, but I can get pretty light in the winter time.

Unlike what some people assume, I am not trying to look caucasian, it's just the way I look/was born. I am proud of my Chinese heritage! I just wish some people didn't assume so much about other people.

Craft Mineral Makeup! (Mineral Makeup)

I've been experimenting with crafting mineral makeup for the last few months. I haven't tried making any foundation yet, but I have made eye shadows galore (I've made at least 8 different shades of gold eye shadow!), a couple of blushes (I usually don't wear blush so this is a milestone for me!), and even a few lippies (I made the color but used an all natural pre-made base; plan on making my own base soon).

There are only three mineral makeup books that I know of (I am a natural cosmetic book fanatic, and I've been looking for books on mineral makeup but I haven't found that many).

The first one is Creative Faces by Maxine Nelson. I borrowed this from the library a while back, and I personally didn't like it very much. There was a section on ingredients but most of their recipes for eyes and foundation were based on talc and some (like the lippies) used F D&C colors (ingredients I avoid). Also the instructions were not that specific; they were basically "take a pinch of this" and mix it with a teaspoon of that etc, which is very vague (when crafting you definitely need to use a gram scale). But you may get some basic info from it.

The second one is Recipes for Makeup by Karen Bombeli. I have not read this one, but the amazon reviews are pretty bad (there is apparantly a lot of spelling mistakes). Also I've seen the website of the author's company and many of her recipes have a lot of synthetics that I avoid (more so than the book above).

The last one is from Coastal Scents: Mineral Makeup Secrets Revealed (online book). I don't have this either but someone e-mailed me a review about this book, and it also contains some ingredients I avoid (but still primarily natural), and apparantly contains just basic information.

I personally learned more about minerals from Deb (owner of Monave and Monave's MMU kits (I have two of them). Once a year, Deb hosts and teaches an all day conference on making MMU (the only person I am aware of that teaches how to craft MMU). I haven't taken the seminars but I've e-mailed her many questions about mineral makeup crafting, and she has been very friendly and helpful. She is awesome! In addition to the kits she sells individual loose pigments and micas. Deb is also working on a book--I told her I'd be one of the first ones in line to buy it if she ever finishes it!

Other companies that sell loose micas, pigments, and kits are Tkb Trading and Coastal Scents. Tbktrading sells so many different choices! If you are concerned about using certain ingredients be sure to read the ingredients for every mica and pigment etc you buy. Tkb also has a great blog on minerals!

Gram scales (to weigh the minerals; to keep recipes accurate) or any scales for that matter can be purchased at Oldwill Knott Scales. Monave sells mini grinders, or you can use a blender to mix (please purchase a separate blender for your cosmetics; don't use the same one that you blend food in).

Tips on crafting:

Unblended colored micas are very intense and usually need to be mixed with a base. Though the straight unblended colored micas also make great intense eyeliners and eyeshadows, especially wetlined or foiled!

I suggest trying a variety of different bases (micas), since all of them will make the colored micas look different. To make things lighter: You can mix the colored micas with serecite (uncolored mica; it will make your blends more matte), or with the splendids/highlights/starlights (which are the refraction micas; which look like white powders but in the light have a 'highlight' color; comes in several colors), or silver fine (a whitish silver color). To make things darker: black mica, the blackstars (which are dark/black but with different tones; they are coated with iron oxides; comes in several colors). OR try mixing the colored micas together.

The shades look way different depending on what you mix with what. As an experiment I took one colored mica and then mixed it with each of the other micas I mentioned. The end results looked so different, even if I started with the same colored mica!

You can also try bases/blends of bismuth (if you're not allergic), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and magnesium stearate (avoid this if you are vegetarian).

Don't mix the colored micas for too long, as over blending may damage the mica particles.

If you use pure iron oxides (to make matte shades), they need to be mixed for much longer than the colored micas, and you don't need to use as much of them.

Also try playing with the ratios too!


Micas in creams/lotions; how to make sparkly creams/lotions:

I've read (from Monave) that the easiest micas to use in a product are probably the splendids which refract light and come in a variety of colors: blue, violet, red, gold, green (in the jar they look like a white powder but if you move them in the light or wet them you can see their different colors).

You will definitely need to use either a gum or gel to thicken your lotion (or make a cream which are thicker than lotions), to prevent the micas from sinking (or you could just shake gently).

Ecological Footprint (Environmental Information)

Earthday Network and Redefining Process have a great calculator in which you can calculate your ecological footprint. Basically an ecological footprint is the amount of acreage that is neccessary to support a person's life style. Worldwide, there is only about 4.5 acres of land available per person. Sadly the average American ecological footprint is 24 acres per person, which means that it would take at least 5.3 planet Earths to support the human population if everyone consumed as much as we do.

I love this calculator, however, though it is a pretty good assessment, it is only an estimate and doesn't take in account factors as recycling, using more ecological friendly products, and only generalizes how much energy/waste a person really consumes (some people consume less and some people more). However, it is a good indicator that many people, especially those that live in western countries, are consuming much more than the planet can support. Not to mention, this leaves little resources for other species!

Though it is pretty sad how much we actually consume, there are many things we can do to reduce our ecological footprints. First, eat more locally grown, unprocessed, organic, and vegetarian meals. Locally grown foods are more eco-friendly because they are not transported over long distances (so less fuel and pollution) and they also support the local economy. Unprocessed, organic, and vegetarian meals are not only healthier (studies have shown organic foods contain more vitamins than conventional foods), but also more ecofriendly. For example, it takes about 12-16 lbs of grain and 2,500 gallons of water to make 1 lb of beef. Also, try to drive less, car pool, take public transportation, buy a more fuel effecient vehicle, or take a few minutes to plan your activities to reduce pollution/emissions (make 1 trip instead of 2). Use more energy effiecient products--it's not only better for the planet but friendier for the wallet too. Also don't forget to reduce (probably the most important), reuse, and recycle, and, when you can, use ecofriendly products! :)

Though I think it'd be awesome if everyone suddenly became veggie and took public transportation, I realize that it may not be possible or practicable in some instances for people to do so. Being more ecological minded doesn't mean you have to become "new-agey" and accept every new eco-trend you hear about (though there is certainly nothing wrong with that ;) ), but it's about making good choices, taking responsibility for human actions, thinking about the future, and doing what you can.

Making changes can be quite overwhelming, especially with all the conflicting information that's out there. My advice: start slow and do what you can! For example, if you want to eat better, are concerned with the treatment of animals, or have moral or spiritual concerns with eating meat, but find the thought of becoming pure veggie daunting, you can start slowly. One idea: replace a few meals (not all) with some veggie meals. Eating less meat and more veggies, fruits, legumes, and whole grains is not only healthier, but helps prevent against many diseases (due to the reduction of fats, and the increased source of vitamins and anti-oxidants). Instead of eating burgers for lunch, try an awesome veggie burger or pizza. If you are feeling adventurist, try a tasty tofu stir fry or a delicious Indian Curry. Yum!

Though you may not be able to everything you've heard about to reduce pollution and your ecological footprint, try to do what you can. Every step you do, is a closer step towards a more sustainable and happier planet :)

Minor Wounds and Scars/First Aid (Natural Alternative Medicine/Aromatherapy)

What essential oils can I use on minor wounds and scraps (for first aid)?

Many essential oils can be used to clean up/heal wounds (antibacterial and healing; first aid) including tea tree, lavender, and chamomile (which are the most often recommended by aromatherapists) but other good essential oils include: bergamot, helichrysum, geranium, eucalyptus, frankincense, myrrh, pathcholi, and lemon. Aloe is also good. To clean the skin, you can use the essential oils by blending with aloe or diluted apple cider vinegar (1 part water to 1 part acv). Use a 2% concentration of essential oils (add 12 drops of the essential oil blend per 1 ounce of acv or aloe). After cleaning apply an ointment/balm/salve (a carrier oil thickened with a little beeswax, or if you don't have beeswax, just use a carrier oil. Make a 2% concentration of essential oils) and cover with gauze. Natural remedies may take longer than conventional remedies to heal, but I've always found them to heal skin better.

For scarring, an excellent all natural remedy is helichyrsum essential oil and rose hip seed oil (12 drops of helichyrsum in 1 ounce of rosehip seed oil). This blend has been recommended by several aromatherapists and there have been many studies done in south america on this combination. For a review/info on the studies click here, and for reviews of this combination from Nature's Gift click here. I suggest making this combination yourself (since it is easy to make and also less expensive), but if you don't want to, you can buy it premade at Nature's Gift (at a 10% concetration, so you'll still have to dilute it a bit with another carrier oil).

List of Animal Ingredients to Avoid in Cosmetics (Natural Skin Care/Vegetarian)

If you're vegetarian, vegan, or just want to use cruelty free cosmetics, there may be some ingredients in cosmetics you may want to avoid. Here is a list of animal ingredients that I avoid, or am in the process of eliminating.

-emu oil (from a bird)
-carmine aka cochineal (a red colorant from beetles used in cosmetics and foods; many makeup companies use micas that have been coated with carmine, or use this in red/purple colored makeup)
-elastin (from cows)
-lactalbumin (milk protein)
-hyaluronic acid (usually from rooster)
-makeup brushes (many are made from animal hair; good alternative: taklon, which is a synthetic bristle)
-lanolin/lanolin alcohol/lanolin oil (from sheep wool)
-honey
-beeswax

Ingredients in perfumes:
-musk (from musk deer; still used in some perfumes)
-civet (still used in some areas/countries)
-ambergris (from sperm whale; not really used; but apparantly still possible to get but thankfully very hard to find)
-castereum (from beaver)

Ingredients that can be from animal or plant:
-lecithin (can be from egg yolk; can also be from soy)
-squalene (can be from sharks; can also be from olives)
-stearic acid/stearyl alcohol (can be from animal fat. can also be from vegetable fat)

Blog update

Hi everyone,

I am trying to complete uncompleted posts (posts that I started but never finished) in the next few days. I had a really, really long (super long--even for me) post on all natural shampoos and conditioners that I was working on, but blogger ate my post! (It's eaten a lot of my uncompleted posts and rough drafts :( ). I just posted a bit on all natural shampoos on one forum so probably will do a shorter post (based on that bit) on all natural shampoos and conditioners rather than trying to rewrite the longer one. I will also post more FAQ type questions, and hopefully add some links within the next couple of weeks.

Cheers,
Solarkat

Aromatherapy Resources (Aromatherapy)

Here is a list of some of my favorite aromatherapy books. There are many others that I've read and love but these are some of the best in the subject in my opinion. For some more book reviews and online resources, check out my Natural Skin Care and Aromatherapy Books and Resources Archives links. Note: be sure to reference at least three different books before using an essential oil, as not all books have the same information on the oil's properties, not all essential oils are safe to use, and some essential oils are not safe to use in certain instances (like pregnancy, or in children or the elderly, or those with certain medical conditions).


A very good book on essential oil profiles is:
Jeanne Rose: 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. I love this book--it lists many of the rarer essential oils that aren't usually described in other books.

Jeanne Rose's "Aromatherapy book: applications and inhalations" also has good decriptions and charts on usages. There aren't too many recipes in this one, but it has a lot of interesting historical notes, and her charts (which were compiled along with the help of another noted aromatherapist: Victoria Edwards) are among the first things I look at when concocting a new blend.

I use Jeanne Rose's books the most for referencing essential oil properties (but I always use them along with others like Tisserand's safety book, see below).

Good beginner books:
Aromatherapy for dummies by Kathi Keville. Highly recommended if you are completely new to essential oils. I love the dummy guides--they really are helpful and often written by experts in the field--and this book clearly explains most of the uses of essential oils. There are some recipes, but perhaps not as many as other books. Good essential oil profiles and also has a section on the medicinal uses in the back of the book. She really knows her herbs (both aromatherapy and herbalism!)


Another good one for beginners is:
Aromatherapy: a complete guide by Kathi Keville and Mindy Green. Maybe a little more advanced than the dummies guide but still great for beginners and also more advanced students. This one has more recipes than the dummies guide (skin care and medicinal uses).


Victoria Edwards has a wonderful book called "Aromatherapy companion" which goes over many aspects of aromatherapy, from some profiles to chemical components to cosmetic to medicinal to spiritual uses. Lots of recipes. She has some interesting blends!

I love the Valerie Worwood books--I have learned so much from them; she goes over a lot of topics not found in other books. Definitely for more advanced students but also good for beginners. "The complete book of essential oils and aromatherapy" is considered one of the 'bibles' of aromatherapy. Not really many oil profiles (get Rose's or Tisserand's books for that), but this book has many recipes and suggestions on a very wide range of medicinal and cosmetic uses of essential oils. I love this book. If I am making any medicinal concoctions, this is one of the first I reach for to see what essential oils are good for whcih conditions. For people with children, there is a very good section on essential oils and children (there are also great sections on women, men, and the elderly as well).

Robert Tisserand's book "Art of Aromatherapy" is a classic (first published in 1978). This book is what spured aromatherapy's popularity in England, and later the U.S. There are only a few recipes but this book has good profiles and also background info on how essential oils work. Tisserand has done many scientific studies on essential oils.
Other books by him: "To tend and heal the body" which contains many case studies from many prominent aromatherapists, and my favorite by Tisserand's and Balacs' "Essential oil safety" which contains many scientific studies and also essential oil profiles on essenial oil safety. I always use this book to check how safe an essential oil really is before I purchase one. This book is the best but it is pricey. A new edition is probably going to be published soon--hopefully!

Kurt Schnaubelt has a great book called "Advanced aromatherapy: the science of essential oil therapy" which breaks down essential oils to the chemical components.

Natural Preservatives in Body Oils and Scrubs and Grapefruit Seed Extract (Natural Skin Care/Aromatherapy)

I've previously blogged on natural preservatives (here and also here), but here is some more information on them.

Do I need to use preservatives in water-less products like body oils, butters, and scrubs?

Many carrier oils and butters are 'self preserving' so have a long shelf life and (when used straight; no water added) don't really need preservation, though using an antioxidant like vitamin E or storing it in the fridge certainly helps extend shelf life. Some carrier oils and butters also have high levels of natural antioxidants present, such as shea butter which has vitamin A. Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax, so is an excellent choice as it has a very long shelf life and doesn't go rancid quickly.

Most essential oils are antiseptic or antibacterial, and are also antioxidants. Tea tree is not only antiseptic, and antibacterial but antiviral and antifungal as well.

Some companies also use herbal extracts like rosemary extract or black willow bark extract, which not only contain bacteria busting herbs, but alcohol (the extracting medium) as well. Alcohol is a well known preservative.

I've never had a problem with my body oils or butters (or scrubs) going rancid/moldy (I always use vitamin E and essential oils) but I tend to make things in small batches and use them up quickly (within a month or two).

Scrubs:
If I'm not mistaken, similiar to salt, sugar is also 'self preserving'. I just add a little vitamin E and essential oils since they not only prevent them from going bad, but have skin benefits too! :)


This question was not answered on a forum, but I decided to post about it since I've been researching it recently.
Is grapefruit seed extract natural?

I'm actually still researching this! I used to think it was natural, but the more I read about it, I think it is one of those borderline ingredients that half the people in the natural cosmetic industry considers natural and the other half doesn't. From my knowledge, it depends on the company that produces it and how a person defines what's 'natural'. Many brands that have been tested have actually been found to be contaminated with parabens and other synthetic preservatives :( . There are a few that aren't, and it is even debatable if those brands can even be considered natural. Grapefruit seed extract (not to be confused with grapefruit essential oil or grapeseed oil) starts out with with either the seeds and sometimes the pulp. However, it undergoes a long secretive process involving chemicals and UV light, which some people argue completely changes the natural constitute of the seeds and pulps, and others argue it just refines it and enhances certain characteristics. Whether or not it is truly natural, the good thing is that it has been shown to be non-toxic, and an effective preservative (though its effectiveness has been debated as well). Personally, for the present, I do not mind using grapefruit seed extract because it is non-toxic and safer than most of the synthetic chemical preservatives out there. But I am looking into other alternatives like Suprapein and Biopein (Thanks Jen (Camellia Rose) for the articles!) which are all natural, scientific tested preservatives made from essential oils or herbs. But these natural preservatives are made with some of the same essential oils I already use to preserve my cosmetics so maybe I'll just stick to my beloved essential oils!

Photoxicity of orange essential oil (Aromatherapy/Essential Oil Information)

I've decided to post FAQ (questions I've answered on forums) before this summer is over and I start hell semester (errr, year...err I mean go back to school and doing my awesome thesis/own research!) and have no more time to post :(. If you have any questions you'd like answered please ask now. :)

Is orange essential oil phototoxic?

A lot of essential oil resources list all citrus oils as phototoxic but to my knowledge that's not neccessary true (many distilled citrus oils like lime and lemon are not phototoxic unlike their expressed versions which are phototoxic).

For orange essential oil, I regard Robert Tisserand's and Rodney Young's opinion (in "Essential Oil Safety: A Guide To Health Practitioners") as accurate since they have researched scientific tests on essential oil phototoxicity. They state that expressed bitter orange essential oil (from Citrus aurantium) is phototoxic, while expressed sweet orange (from Citrus sinensis) is not phototoxic.

*This post was edited on January 24, 2014, because the 2nd edition of Tisserand's Essential Oil Safety is now available.  The first edition was an excellent resource but definitely get the 2nd edition if you can, because it was totally rewritten and much expanded.  It is several hundred pages longer than the first edition.  Tisserand is one of the best safety experts on essential oils, and Young is a chemist.

Blog update--Small Font/Links fixed!

Hi everyone,

Well it took me a while, but I finally fixed the small text/link problem. I am silly! I accidentally didn't type the / when closing the header tags in the html code for some of the headers for the links, thus causing the weirdness in the fonts. I guess I should've cut and paste rather than trying to add links by typing in the html code manually from memory, LOL! (Still trying to learn html code; I'm really good at using the html editors which automatically generate the html code for you--I used to teach how to use html editors and other webpage/graphic info as an undergrad--but my html skills still need work!). I guess safari, firefox, and netscape didn't care that some of my tags were not closed, but Internet Explorer sure did!

Thanks again for Robin and Sue for mentioning the font size was wacky. If anyone in the future notices anything wrong with any of the links, formatting, etc, of this blog, please post a comment. I generally blog using Firefox or Safari (since many Blogger features only work on Firefox, and I am a Mac user) so don't really use Netscape or Internet Explorer (though I do have those browsers on my computer), and may not be aware of problems on various browsers, or how it may look like on a PC.

Cheers,
Solarkat

Hair Rinses (All Natural Haircare)

Many people love using (diluted) apple cider vinegar rinses or herb infused acv rinses after using all natural shampoos, but I've found them too drying for my hair. I like using herbal infusions as hair rinses, as recommended by Rose, Gladstar, and other herbalists. They rinse away any residue from shampoos and other hair products and leave the hair soft and shiny.

Here is a list of herbs that can be used as hair rinses that I also just posted about on a forum a couple days ago (but I just added many other herbs and suggestions to the list).

All hair types:
Lavender (my favorite)
horsetail
coltsfoot (both ht and cf have a lot of vitamins that are beneficial to the hair)
Rosemary (a classic often cited for all hair types; I think it is better for oily hair than dry though)
Comfrey

Dry and light hair:
Chamomile
calendula

Oily and light hair:
lemons

Oily and dark hair:
Sage
black walnut hull (I read about this herb in Gladstar's book, and I know many ladies who henna the hair also use this since it really colors the hair dark. I don't know how effective it'd be in a rinse, as suggested by Gladstar, because I think it can stain the skin too if you're not careful, so don't make the rinse too concentrated!)


Dry hair:
rose
marshmellow root
Nettle

Oily:
peppermint
lemongrass
raspberry or strawberry leaves
yarrow leaf


Other good hair rinses:

Oily hair:
beer (yes, you read that right! It supposingly makes the hair shiny, but I haven't tried it because I hate the smell of beer, but I have used a shampoo bar made with beer and it worked pretty well)

Normal/some people with dry hair:

red wine vinegar rinse (diluted with water)--better for drier hair, more mild than apple cider vinegar

You could also use hydrosols (which have a longer shelf life) but that can get expensive; I recommend stretching them with distilled water if you decide to use them.

Tips for Mineral Makeup Application (All Natural Makeup)

I love mineral makeup (and now that I'm learning how to craft it, I love it even more!). Just thought I'd share some of my application tips that I posted on a forum just now. Back to doing homework!


1) Make sure your skin is well moisturized and hydrated. Sometimes some ladies find MMU drying because they haven't adequately moisturized their skin. Let the moisturizer soak in for several minutes before applying your minerals

2) Don't use a lot of product. One of the most common mistakes in applying mineral makeup is that ladies use too much to apply, leading to a chalky appearence. MMU is a concentrated product, meaning it doesn't contain any fillers so you don't need ot apply a lot. You really only need a few grains; much less than you think.

3) Procedure: sprinkle a small amount of product into the lid or a swirly bowl, swirl your brush into the powder, tap off the excess, and then buff into the skin. It is better to apply several thin layers rather than a thick layer (which will look chalky).

4) Most women use a kabuki or a flat top brush for med to heavy coverage. I use a taklon brush (I'm vegetarian). Other prefer using a flocked sponge (dry or wet) for heavy coverage, and others still like to mix their minerals with either aloe or an all natural cream for application (apply with fingers, a sponge, or a taklon foundation brush). Find what works for you

5) After application, spray your skin with either hydrosol or try aloe to set your makeup. This is particularly good for dry skin, but also works well for oily skin (esp oily skin that is oily because it is dehydrated)

Blog update: problems with links

Hi everyone,

A reader just posted about a comment about problems on viewing some of the links, and I posted a response (in the comments section), but just in case everyone doesn't see it, I'm posting my response as an entry too.

Thanks Robin for posting your comment! :)

The problem is that some of the links are showing up in really small, tiny, unreadable font.

Here is my response; what I think the problem is:

"I think there may be either a bug in the html code, or it may be just how certain browsers show my blog.

(I'm on a Mac and) I noticed a few days ago that in Safari, Firefox, and Netscape the font size is fine (same as all the other links), but on Internet Explorer the font size is tiny on some of the links, which is strange since the font on all the links is supposed to be the same (I did not change the html code on any of the links, and I had originally written the code for all font to be the same size). I'll have to look at the html code again, and see if it got corrupted. Sorry about that, I'll try to fix it when I have time, but it probably won't be for several days since I have a lot of grad school work now.

Most of the links that are showing up as small font in IE are just the individual entries of my archives.
If you want to read any of the archives/previous posts, you can scroll down to the very last links, and click on the individual months you want to read.

I'll try to fix it as soon as I can! :) "


So is anyone else having problems seeing the links in Internet Explorer or on any other browser? I'll look at the html code and address this prob soon (probably not for a week or more at least--sorry; my rough draft if my thesis proposal is due soon), but in the meantime, click on the individual months of the archives if you are having trouble viewing the links to the individual entries!

Cheers,
Solarkat

Herbs and Oils for Anti-aging (Natural Skin Care)

What are some carrier oils, essential oils, and herbs that I can use for anti-aging?

A lot of carrier oils, herbs, and essential oils are great for anti-aging; many will reduce and help prevent the signs of aging, soften and soothe fine lines, and improve the clarity of the skin. Some plants like lavender can also heal and regenerate the skin. Now I don't have any real lines yet, but I fully intend to prevent them for as long as I can. LOL! ;)

Here are a few carrier oils, essential oils, and herbs that good for anti-aging. This list is by no means a full list as there are many, many herbs, essential oils, carrier oils, and butters that are great for the skin. I've just listed a few of my favorites :)

Carrier oils and butters:
rose hip seed oil (don't use on active acne)
kukui nut butter and oil
camellia oil (from the green tea plant)
shea butter
sea buckthorn oil (this has to be mixed with another carrier oil)


Essential oils:
rose attar
carrot seed
frankincense
myrrh (the Egyptions used frankincense and myrrh to preserve mummies!)
clary sage (mimics hormones)
geranium (mimics hormones)
lavender
neroli
patchouli (along with lavender, a favorite of men but great for women too!)

Herbs (used usually in the form of extracts or infusions):
Green tea
rooibos (both are anti-oxidants, and rooibos is great for dry skin)

Quick Blog Update

In the process of reorganizing archives and links (to make it easier for people to find things). Hopefully I'll get around to adding more links too after I finish organizing them. :)

Natural Deodorant; MIY Dusting Powder (Natural Skin Care)

FAQ

What is a good natural deodorant?

My favorite all natural deodorant is the crystal rock. It is the only natural deodorant that I've found that really works! The trick is to get them very wet (run them under water), and also apply to freshly washed skin (it doesn't work so good if you apply it in the middle of the day!). You can also spray the crystal with witch hazel, rose hydrosol, or aromatherapy spray (water with essential oils and maybe alcohol or witch hazel) for extra odor protection, but note, sometimes the crystal can feel rough if you wet it with something other than water. Some people prefer getting it in liquid form, but be careful, since some liquid brands are preserved with synthetic preservatives, like parabens. They are only good for controlling odor, but for wetness, I'll use my crystal rock first, and then apply a powder (see below). Works great! Using just powder, witch hazel, rose hydrosol, or aromatherapy spray also work great for some people, but I prefer either using just the crystal rock, or combining a few things. The crystal rock is also very cost effective since 1 rock lasts at least a year! Available at health food stores or online, multiple brands.

If you don't want to make your own aromatherapy spray,
Burt's Bees also makes a nice herbal deodorant, as does Mountain Rose Herbs. Terressentials also makes a good all natural deodorant (basically a combination of aloe, herb extracts, baking soda, essential oils). I also once used the one from Aubrey Organics, but I did not like it at all (some people love it though; I think it's the only product they make that I don't love).

MIY Dusting Powders (for under arm sweating or all over body)

You can use any of the following: clay, baking soda (mix with another powder since it can be a bit gritty), cornstarch (some people are allergic), orris root (some people are allergic), or arrowroot. To any of the powders listed, add about 5-10 drops of essential oils per ounce (to fragrance, and they are also antibacterial), mix well, and let sit for a few days; lavender is a popular fragrance. You can add also finely grind herbs like lavender, chamomile, or rose flowers to add a bit of scent.

I like adding clary sage essential oil (Salvia sclarea) since it not only is a great deodorant, but also reduces sweating. Other good deodorants: lavender, tea tree, and bergamot essential oils. Rose and cypress essential oils also great for reducing odor and also for sweating (though true rose attar is pricey!)

More about powder: though talc is a natural product, I wouldn't recommend it, as it is often contaminated with asbestos. Also talc itself has been linked to ovarian cancer, and is a known carcinogen when breathed into the lungs (Hampton, A. 2000. Take Charge beauty Book).

Natural Skin Care Routine/Dehydrated Skin/MIY Scrub and Mask (Natural Skin Care)

**Although this entry is primarily for dehydrated skin, I briefly mention what products to use on other skin types too.

A few years ago, after my skin became sensitive to synthetic chemicals, I switched to an all natural routine. At first that seemed to make my skin worse; my skin had always been on the sensitive side, sometimes normal and other times slightly oily, but the natural skin care routines that I read about and tried to follow didn’t seem to help. Using natural recommendations for sensitive skin (which are often designed for dry skin) were too rich for my skin and clogged my pores, which caused blemishes. When I tried suggestions for oily skin that made the problem worse because my skin seemed to become even oilier, leading to blemishes. Normal or combination skin products were not either moisturizing enough or dried me out more. At the same time, my skin seemed to become flaky. I read tons of natural skin care and aromatherapy books (somewhere around 40 now), but their skin type profiles didn’t seem to make sense. Oily skin is often characterized as large pores, thick texture, and dry skin is often distinguished as the lack of sebum (the skin’s natural oil/lubrication substance), small pore size, and delicately textured skin. My skin didn’t even fit into the combination skin type since that is characterized as certain sections of the skin (T-zone) being oily and the cheeks being dry or normal. My skin is fine textured with small pore size, and was dry and flaky, but at the same time, the flaky skin was very oily too. I also had more blemishes. Some books did mention sensitive skin could be in any skin type category, but nearly all the recommendations were for the dry skin type. It was with sheer luck, that I was re-reading a couple of books and I found one line (in each book) that there was a kind of dry skin that could produce enough oil. This skin type is called water dry or dehydrated skin. Now these two books did not have suggestions on how to treat dehydrated skin, but through trial and error, and making my own cosmetics (catered to my own needs) I finally figured out what my skin needs. Now my skin has become balanced and I hardly ever get blemishes anymore.

I realized that using the right natural ingredients, and also applying natural cosmetics in a certain way (different than conventional products) is the key to great skin. Just because it is natural does not mean it will work for your skin; certain ingredients are better for dry skin and others are good for normal skin, etc. Also natural products are highly concentrated substances—they contain no fillers—so it is not necessary to apply a lot (in fact that was one of the reasons using natural oils clogged my pores at first. I was applying just as much product as I used to use for conventional products). Since dehydrated skin is a little discussed skin type (at least in the resources I’ve come across), I’ve decided to post my skin care routine here. Hopefully it will point people with the same skin type in the right direction on what to use on their skin; but every person’s skin is different (even with the same skin type), so don’t be afraid to experiment to find out what’s right for you! You may have to try a lot of things before it works, since finding products that work for dehydrated skin is tricky, since most people don't even make products specifically for dehydrated skin (which is different than regular dry skin).

For dehydrated skin, the most important things to remember are to provide your skin with plenty of water and use nothing too drying or too rich, but use enough natural oils to provide a moisture loss barrier and to also lubricate the skin. And to switch products if you need to; if your skin is a more little dry one day, use something more hydrating. If it is a little more oily, use sometime that will gently remove the oil (like a clay) but be sure to use a richer moisturizer later. Note: for the first few weeks of using ANY new skin care routine, your skin may break out more as the toxins rise to the surface.

Cleanser:
I found the best thing to cleanse my skin is all natural soap. Some natural skin care users may disagree with me on that point, but other cleansers don’t seem to clean my pores as well (which tend to get clogged). Usually for the regular dry skin type, either a cleansing oil or cold cream is recommended, but I found that using them (and then following with toner and then another oil or cream as suggested) was too rich for my skin (this dry skin routine clogs my pores!). Though people with normal or oily skin like to use clay based cleansers/scrubs, using them every day seems to strip too much oil from my skin (making dehydration worse, which causes my skin to produce more oil in order to correct the problem). Though I do love clay masks!

Truth is, I usually hate most natural bar soaps because every bar soap I've ever tried has left my facial skin feeling 'tight' and dry (I won’t bother discussing conventional soaps which are made of mostly synthetic detergents, cock full of chemicals, and aren’t really ‘real’ soap). But I’ve found some that my skin really loves. I like the soaps made by Karla Moore of Heart of Iowa Soapworks, which are also sold at a few places: Heart of Iowa Soapworks, Jlynne Cosmetics, and Prairieland Herbs. They are the best natural soaps I've ever used; her soaps leave my skin soft, smooth, without any tightness or dryness. They are all natural, and her shampoo bars are pretty terrific too! (Note: some do contain synthetic fragrances, which I personally avoid). My favorite is the shea butter soap, which is great for both dryness and blemishes. I also like the carrot soap, when my skin is less dry and leaning more towards normal. I've also been using the Dead Sea mud soap (which also has shea in it), which is wonderful to deep cleanse when I do get blemishes, but since it has shea in it, it isn't drying at all! I think the secret (to why these soaps work for me when others haven’t) is the castor oil in them. I recently tried the lavender soap by Monave, which also contains castor oil, and it wasn’t drying either!

Sometimes when my skin is very dry, or if I am wearing a lot of makeup, I will use cleansing oil (simply one or a mix of light carrier oils), but I’ll follow it with soap. I also sometimes use liquid castille soap, which removes dirt but has a higher concentration of water in it so it doesn't strip my face as much. I usually add a bit of carrier oil to it (super fattening it like the shea butter soap), so that it doesn’t strip my face. I also found that the (rose mosqueta and green tea) cleansers from Aubrey Organics are pretty good, though I much prefer using his shampoos (rose mosqueta or blue chamomile) as a face cleanser! (I ordinarily wouldn’t recommend using a shampoo as a face cleanser, since most are made with synthetic detergents, but these are one of the only truly all natural shampoos out there on the market that are made only with liquid soap and herbs). I also sometimes cleanse my skin with aloe during the morning (no makeup). I also use to occasionally use Dr. Hauschka’s cleansing milk (a light textured cold cream) and cleansing cream (gentle almond meal in a cream base), which was a cream base but contained a small amount of alcohol, so wasn’t too rich nor over dried my skin, but that was before they started using components of essential oils (versus the whole essential oils) for scent. Using components of essential oils (single isolated natural chemicals) doesn’t sound ‘holistic’ to me! And (once you get to used to real natural scents) they just don’t smell right to me.

Toner:

For toner I usually make it myself or use some ingredients ‘straight’. A lot of natural toners for oily skin, combination skin, and sometimes normal skin use alcohol, witch hazel (the extract NOT the hydrosol), or apple cider vinegar, but I’ve found that using these ingredients daily was too drying for my skin. Be careful of hidden sources of alcohol in toner—like herbal extracts, which are usually extracted with alcohol.
I usually like using hydrosols or aloe, either as is or mixed together. Sometimes I’ll use an aromatherapy spray or herbal infusion. Rose hydrosol is wonderful for dry skin, and is my favorite hydrosol. During those times of the month when I have a couple of blemishes, I use lavender hydrosol or pure aloe vera gel. Rose and lavender hydrosols are good at balancing the skin's sebum production (rose is more hydrating), and lavender hydrosol and aloe are good for acne. I also like the cucumber toner from Garden of Wisdom which contains rose hydrosol, cucumber distillate (which is great for dry and sensitive skin), and witch hazel hydrosol (which does not contain alcohol so isn’t drying like the extract).

Other hydrosols for skin care:
chamomile (good for irritated, sensitive skin. It is mildly astringent)
rose (dry and dehydrated skin, some authors debate it is good for sensitive, some disagree)
helichrysum (dry and inflamed skin)
neroli (dry, mature sensitive. Can be a tad drying for some people)
lavender--all skin types, balancing

Moisturizers:
Natural oils are very good for balancing the skin. Skin is naturally moisturized by sebum, a natural oily secretion, and the addition of natural oils can help regulate your skin's natural moisturizing system. The type of oil to use for your skin really depends upon your skin type. Certain oils are better for specific skin types. It took me a long time to figure out which oils to use on my facial skin. The skin on my body can tolerate pretty much any kind of oil, but the skin on my face is a lot pickier. After months of using different oils and breaking out, I finally figured out that if I apply too much oil/moisturizer I get clogged pores, and if I apply too little, my skin gets really dry, and then my pores will ironically pump out more oil, and I get blemishes. I really needed oils that was light (not heavy) and easily absorbed, but that prevented moisture loss and that weren’t astringent. After trying over a dozen oils and butters, I finally found four that really work well for my skin: kukui nut oil, kukui nut butter, shea butter, and camellia oil. All have really balanced my skin.

Kukui nut oil is the lightest weight oil for the skin out there. Though it is light, it is highly nourishing since it is a nut oil. It is good for all skin types, especially dry and dehydrated skin with blemishes. When my skin feels really dry, I like using kukui nut butter. Though it is a butter it absorbs instantly into the skin. Shea butter is also great for both dry skin and acne too. It can be used on most skin types, except perhaps the extremely oily. It is the heaviest out of the four oils/butters, but it absorbs quickly and forms a non-greasy barrier on the skin. My favorite though is camellia oil. It isn’t as light as kukui nut, but it is one of the lightest oils out there. It is good for all skin types, and helps retain moisture and is also good for blemishes.

I usually make my own lotions/creams with these four or use them straight or mixed with essential oils (serums), but sometimes I buy a few natural brands too. When using natural lotions and oils, be sure to apply only a small amount to your face, and apply to really damp skin (best to spray the skin with aloe, toner, herbal infusion, hydrosol, or spring/distilled water). Use only 3-5 drops of oil or a very, very small amount of cream or butter (1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon). If you are using shea butter, let it melt in the palm of your hand before putting it on, or use whipped shea. I usually spray a bit of hydrosol (like rose water), aloe, or water onto my face, apply the oils and massage gently in, spray with more liquid and then gently massage again. Let the oils penetrate for a few minutes before makeup application.

Be sure to try to buy oils that are cold pressed, unrefined, and organic if you can (which retain more of the active constitutes than refined, solvent extracted oils). These oils may have a richer smell than you are not used to (some people hate the smells but I love them!), and may be a little more expensive, but they are worth it!

A store/already made cream that I love is from Monave. Their rose cream contains camellia, shea, jojoba, and rose and lavender hydrosols. I also love Aubrey Organics' rose mosqueta night cream, which contains vitamins and shea butter, as well as rose mosqueta (aka rosehip seed). Miessence also makes a nice cream; their cream for dry skin is actually more like a lotion, and since it contains a lot of water, it is very hydrating. I prefer to buy them from Cosmetics Without Synthetic’s website since they have samples of this brand and many other natural brands
There are several other good natural brands but these are my favorite for my skin (but I prefer using my own creams and serums of course!)

Eyes:

For my eye area I either use kukui nut butter, shea butter, or I use Aubrey Organics’ eye crème (I LOVE this stuff). I also sometime use helichrysum/rose hip seed serum. I can’t seem to use rose hip seed oil straight all over my face but in small amounts around certain areas of my face, or mixed with another oil, my face can tolerate it.

Exfoliate/masks:

I exfoliate or use a mask at least once a week. I love rhassoul clay masks, and I also use a store brought natural scrub (Aubrey Organics’ rose mosqueta scrub or Paul Penders walnut scrub) on my face or I make my own (with various ingredients depending on if it feels drier or oilier). Brown sugar scrub is my favorite, but so is the scrub below, at the end of this long entry.

Facial:
And once or twice a month I give myself a natural facial with an exfoliating cleansing scrub, either a flower/herb or essential oil steam, oil massage, herbal or clay mask, toner, face cream or serum. A monthly facial really improves the texture of my skin, not to mention it keeps my pores clear. I found that for the oil massage, I can use any oil (like argan or jojoba or olive) with no problem (as long as I remove most of it later, and moisturize with my favorite oils).

Blemishes:
If I do get a blemish I apply my pimple remedy directly to the spot. Burt’s Bees and Desert Essence also make a blemish stick. If I make it with alcohol or witch hazel, I apply this on top of a moisturizer to prevent it from drying my skin out too much. Otherwise I make it with aloe.

Makeup:

After applying mineral makeup, I like to spray my skin with hydrosol or distilled water. Sometimes I'll mix my mineral in a natural cream or aloe and apply them that way, to prevent dryness.

MIY

Easy scrub:
Oatmeal and/or finely ground almonds mixed with honey. Oatmeal and almonds gently exfoliate and can be used on all skin types, including sensitive. I like using equal amounts of the ingredients. Store in fridge.

Easy mask and cleanser:
Organic yogurt with/without honey and 1-2 drops of essential oil. Yogurt is a great cleanser for all skin types and will make your skin soft. Honey removes toxics and is also a good cleanser by itself. You can also choose essential oils specific for your skin type. Lavender is good for all skin types. Store in fridge.

Vegans can replace the honey in the scrub with aloe, and use clay to remove toxins.

Blog update/Carrier Oils (Natural Skin Care)

My post on carrier oils for specific skin types has been updated (added a few more oils and a little bit more information, and links to other sites with oil profiles).

I am tempted to revisit other posts as well, and may do so if time permits, but I have a lot of other things I want to blog about before next semester starts. I am currently working on a loonnngggg entry on a skin care routine for dehydrated skin, and after that a couple other long entries I'm working on (natural shampoos and conditioners), and also a bunch of shorter FAQ type entries (answers about natural skin care). Hopefully also more environmental related entries (since this blog has kind of turned into a natural skin care/miy blog, instead of an all things environmental blog) before the summer ends. As to the fall and spring semesters, I don't know how much time I'll have to blog since I will be working my thesis and will be very busy. I will try to post as much as possible since I enjoy blogging, but will not be posting as much as I usually do. Thanks for reading :)

Fight Global Warming (Environmental Information)

A few months ago, Environmental Defense started a 'Fight Global Warming campaign'. In my graduate studies I've been learning a lot about the potential but extremely likely effects of global warming and climate change, especially in relation to changes in the arctic. This website is great at summing up the facts and the science of the issue, and has a calculator to compute your environmental pollution impact. It also lists many great ideas on how you can reduce your impact.

One thing that really grabbed my attention on this site were the ads--they were very high impact and really push the message across, especially the one with the little girl and the train. I think many people do not realize that these problems have been in the making (slowly building up) for 200 years, and that in the near future, probably within the next 10 to 30 years, many ecological changes are going to happen. The evidence is overwhelming. Changes in the climate and several ecosystems are already occuring, and it is most likely just going to get worse.

Many people also are not aware that global warming is not a debate and that it is happening. About 50% of the media still frames global warming as a debate and not as a fact. The truth is, perhaps as little as 10 years ago, climatic and other scientists were debating about whether or not global warming was occuring, but pretty much now, nearly all scientists agree global warming is happening, but what they are now debating about are the potential effects of it. The global climate has already risen by 1 degree F in the last 100 years, and is expected to rise as much as 2.5-10.4 degrees F by 2100. This may not sound like a lot but considering the last ice age was only a difference of five to seven degrees, slight changes in the global average temperature make a huge difference!

I think that out of any environmental issue, global warming is the biggest environmental threat this planet is facing and will face in the coming years, and solutions to global warming will have to involve major changes on the part of everyone, not just a few individuals. Many skeptics point out that global warming is one of the Earth’s natural processes to keep the surface warm. While this is true (the planet would freeze without this natural process!), excess CO2 levels (from fossil fuels and deforestation) are causing a temperature increase that is occurring at a much quicker rate than in the past (over decades and not over thousands of years), and probably too rapidly for the planet and all its inhabitants to adapt to. Some predicted changes (worse case) include radical climatic shifts, habitat change, biodiversity loss, and sea level rise. Acute climatic and ecological changes may also directly affect human health, as well as established cultural, economical, and political structures around the world. Whether or not changes will be this radical, the bottom line is that the global temperature is rising, and there will be changes, though it remains to be seen how much. Ecological changes are happening/going to happen (whether from global warming or other environmental concerns), and people have to make their own changes if we are to protect and preserve this Earth for present and future generations.

Be sure to check out Environmental Defenses' site!

Herb info: Aloe vera (Natural Skin Care)

Aloe vera (Aloe vera aka Aloe barbadensis) gel is a great ingredient that soothes and heals rashes, sun burn, inflammed skin, razor burn, and other skin irritations.  It can also be used as a skin cleanser, as a toner, and makes a fantastic ingredient in scrubs and masks.  I love using it in the water phase of my creams.  Some people drink aloe juice, if they have constipation, because it is a natural laxative. Be sure to buy a product that is as pure as possible: pure aloe gel mixed with potassium sorbate (antifungal), citric acid (pH stabilizer), and a thickener (usually it is carrageenan, a thickener from sea weed.  Some companies use gums). And preferably organic!   Many aloe gels on the market contain a lot of synthetics that can be irritating or toxic to the skin.   I've blogged about some of the ingredients previously.  So don't buy any of that green junk that poses as aloe!  And make sure it is organic!  Some good companies include Aubrey Organics, Mountain Rose Herbs, Garden of Wisdom, Nature's Gift, and Lily Of The Desert.  Once you open the bottle, refrigerate it for best results, since there is no true broad spectrum preservative in most aloe brands.

Better yet, use the gel fresh from the leaf! Try to get a plant that is organic. I don't have an organic aloe plant yet (I usually buy organic aloe gel), but one of my local Asian super markets have started to carry (super HUGE) organic aloe leaves (they are the biggest leaves I've ever seen--over a foot long!--and are sold by the leaf). According to one of my herbal books, for external use, cut the leaf from the base of the plant, and you just squeeze the gel out. You can store the cut leaf in the fridge for several weeks. For internal use, the outer skin of the leaf has to be peeled away before use because the brown gel (aloin) near the leaf blade is an irritant.

NOTE: Though aloe is great on all types of skin infections, don't use it on staph infections; staph bacteria grows quickly in aloe (herbal book: Rosemary Gladstar: the Family Herbal, which is now called Herbal Recipes for Vibrant Health).

Edited March 5, 2014: to add more info on the ingredients in store bought aloe gel and minor edits.  Plus Gladstar's book is now available as a paperback (the name of the book changed, when the publishing company made it as a paperback).

More on Scrubs and Masks; MIY Honey Scrubs and Masks Recipes (Natural Skin Care)

I've blogged about miy scrubs (brown sugar, white sugar, and salt) and masks (herbal and clay) before, but I thought I'd post some more information!

In addition to using brown sugar, white sugar, and salt to make scrubs, you can also use ingredients like ground almonds, ground oatmeal, finely ground herbs (use leaves and flowers, and none of the harder parts of plants), and cornmeal--though I prefer using sugar and salt since they melt and don't leave a mess in the bath tub! I know some ladies also like using baking soda too. A few skin care books recommend (dried) crushed avocado pits! I haven't tried this yet, but I've been saving avocado pits and am going to try this soon! However, I suggest only using sugar, almond, oatmeal, and herbs in a facial scrub, and not the grittier substances (like avocado pit, salt, and cornmeal) since they may be too harsh for the facial skin. For a great body scrub, some people even use coffee grinds!

Add oils to any of these bases, or honey, aloe, hydrosol, herbal infusion, etc. I prefer using lighter oils like kukui, camellia, grapeseed, or maybe jojoba. Or you can use oils specific for your skin type, or any of the other ingredients I've listed in my miy mask entry. Note: if you make a scrub with just sugar/salt and oil, it will have a longer shelf life (months; no need to refrigerate) than a scrub or mask made with water-based or perishable ingredients (be sure to store in the fridge and use within a few days).

All of the following recipes have honey in them, though I've included vegan substitutes too. I don't know why I've got honey on the mind--maybe because I don't eat it anymore, and only use it for skin care now and then. It leaves the skin very soft and healthy looking.



The following scrub is gentle enough for the facial skin, and is very easy to make. It may feel a bit sticky going on, but it rinses cleanly away and will leave your skin glowing.

MIY oatmeal, almond, honey scrub

Finely grind equal amounts of oatmeal and almonds in either a food processor or with a mortar and pestle. Add enough honey to make a paste. Add 1-2 drops of essential oil if desired. I don't really measure my ingredients but I like using about 1 tablespoon each of oatmeal and almonds, 1 tablespoon of honey, and a couple drops of lavender essential oil, but you may want to use more or less. Don't use more than a few drops of essential oil though, since they are highly concentrated substances, and too much may irritate your skin. Store in the fridge.

For a vegan version use aloe or a carrier oil in place of the honey.



This mask is great for really dry skin. Great for the face and body, and also the hair!

MIY Avocado mask

1/2 mashed avocado
1-2 Tablespoons honey

Mix well (make sure there are no lumps). Apply and leave on for at least 15 minutes. I recommend trying to use this all at once but if you have excess, store it in the fridge, with plastic wrap pressed on the surface.

For a vegan version, you can omit the honey. If the texture is a bit thick, add aloe, hydrosol, or maybe a little almond or soy milk.



Honey will absorb toxins and leave your skin feeling soft. You can use honey to cleanse your skin daily.

MIY Easy Honey mask

1-2 teaspoons Honey
Optional: 1-2 drops of essential oil

Pat the honey onto damp skin (it may feel sticky, but rinses right off). Leave on for 10-15 minutes.
Vegan version: try a clay mask to absorb toxics.

Difference Between Body Butter, Balm, Salve, Ointment, Liniment, Tincture, Infused Oil, Infused Vinegar, Lotion, Cream (Natural Skin Care/Medicine)

FAQ

What is difference Between Body Butters, Balms, Salves, Ointments, Liniments, Tinctures, Herbal Infused Oils, Herbal Infused Vinegars, Lotions and Creams?

Body butters are usually made with a combination of carrier oil (liquid fats) and butters (like cocoa butter, etc. So solid fats) and often a wax (like beeswax). It does not contain water. It is a thicker and harder product than a lotion or cream (though it melts on the skin on contact), and often takes longer to absorb. It may also leave a slightly oily barrier on the skin for several minutes to a few hours, depending on the types of oils used and skin type.

Butters also refer to just the butters/solid fats themselves, such as cocoa, shea, mango, or kukui butter. They vary in texture and hardness, and absorbancy; some may leave a slight oily barrier on the skin, and others may absorb instantly.

A balm or salve is similiar to a body butter except it may or may not have butters in it, and body butters contain a higher percentage of butters than balms or salves. Balms and salves are made with carrier oil and a wax, and sometimes solid fats/butters. They do not contain water. As to the difference between a balm and a salve, it depends who you ask. Most herbalists, aromatherapists, and skin care authors mention that there is no difference. From looking at products on the market, I always thought salves were usually made with herb infused oils (see below for definition), while balms were made with either infused or non-infused carrier oils, and may contain essential oils. Looking at recipes though, there is little difference between the two, and as to what each product is called, it depends on the herbalist/author/crafter! I swear I once read somewhere that there was a difference but I can't seem to find it now!

Many authors also say that balms or salves are essentially the same as an ointment. For some reason I can't fathom, I always thought that ointments were made with the same ingredients but that they were thinner/softer in texture since they usually contained less wax. But all of my sources mention they are the same thing, so I just must have been thinking of something else!

I've found several different definitions on what a liniment is. They are made for external application for the skin, to soothe or disinfect. Basically you infuse herbs in a solvent. The difference in opinion that I've seen is what kind of solvent. One source said that the solvent is witch hazel or rubbing alcohol, while another said it is a carrier oil (and made it a point to mention that a liniment did not contain wax like a salve). Another book had a bunch of different recipes that included solvents or thickeners such as wax, oil, alcohol, or cider vinegar. I guess the true definition is any infused herbal solvent for external/skin usage!

A tincture is basically when you infuse herbs in alcohol or glycerin. Some books also mention cider vinger, though most tend to think of infused vinegar as a totally different product. A tincture is for internal use, but you can use it for external use too. Tinctures are a highly concentrated product. Many herbalists prefer using tinctures, as they have a longer shelf life than fresh or dried herbs, and they utilize less shelf space.

An herbal infused vinegar is herbs infused in vinegar, usually apple cider vinegar, and occasionally red wine vinegar. There are many cosmetic, medicinal, as well as food uses of infused vinegars.

Herbal infused oils are herbs infused in a carrier oil, such as olive or other carrier oils appropriate for your skin type. There are many cosmetic, medicinal, and food uses.

You can also make herbal vinegars and herbal oils by adding a few drops of essential oils. While these can be used for cosmetic purposes, they are not recommended for consumption, since essential oils are very concentrated plant substances. Herbal oils make awesome aromatherapy body, bath, and massage oils.

Lastly, all natural body lotions or creams are made with oils and waters (water, aloe, hydrosol, herbal infusion, etc) and also either a wax (like beeswax), thickener (like xanthan gum), and/or other emulsifier (like borax). It can have butters/solid fats in it, but not always. Lotions and creams are thinner, and 'runnier' than body butters. Lotions are thinner than creams, as they contain a higher percentage of water than creams.


Which is better to use for cosmetic purposes; which is more moisturizing or less greasy?

As to which is better, it depends on your skin type. Since lotions and creams contain water, if your skin is really dehydrated, they would be better. Lotions are also good for oily skin. Creams are better for drier skin.

Since butters, balms, and ointments are thicker, and may stay on top of your skin longer (preventing moisture lost), they are also good for dry skin (though if your skin is really dry, be sure to apply to really damp skin). Many people like to use them on really dry areas like lips, elbows, knees, and feet.

Infused oils are great to use on just freshly cleaned, damp skin, and are awesome to use during massages (or you can use an aromatherapy body oil). They also make a fantastic hot oil treatment for your hair.

The only thing that really moisturizes skin is water (or things that contain a lot of water like hydrosols, aloe, herbal infusions etc), so if your skin is really dry apply your chosen product to damp skin or choose a product with a high water content in it. Oils and butters work by lubricating and softening the skin and preventing moisture loss by forming a barrier on the skin. And (unlike mienral oil) they contain a lot of vitamins and nutrients that are great for your skin!

Infused vinegars, diluted with water or hydrosol, are great to use as toners, and as hair rinses. Really dry skin types may want to use just plain hydrosols, as vinegars can be drying.

Cosmetic Safety (Natural Skin Care)

Be careful what you put on your skin! Not all ingredients used in cosmetics are safe. Federal laws on cosmetic (by cosmetics I mean all kinds of personal body and hair care, as well as makeup) ingredients are rather lax, and they do not mandate safety studies on cosmetics. Some of the chemicals used in cosmetics have been linked to higher increases in cancer and many can cause skin irritations.

Four good websites on the issue are:

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics which contains many news articles and some reports on the subject, as well as a list of companies that have pleged not to use to use toxic materials in cosmetics.

Environmental Working Group has compiled a good database on ranking the safeness of thousands of different brands and ingredients of personal care products.

Though focusing primarily on organic cosmetics, Organic Consumer Association has dozens of news articles on organic/natural vs. synthetic ingredients used in cosmetics. I love this website--it's really eye opening, there is a lot of information on the tricks some companies use to try to fool the public into thinking their products are natural and organic. They have a lot of information on their site on all thing organic, not just body care!

This last website, which one of the regular posters on craigslist's alternative health and medicine posted (thanks CT!), is simply awesome. The "Guide to Less Toxic Products" is from the Environmental Health Association of Nova Scotia. As much as I love Environmental Working Group's database, not all of their safe cosmetic suggestions are all natural. Many on this guide are all natural, though some of their choices may contain some synthetics, but the products are pretty natural (Okay! so I am anal in where everything has to be all natural. My only bane, and vice, being toothpaste! More on that later!)

Drugstore Mineral Makeup Hype (Mineral Makeup)

When I first heard that many conventional companies were going to make mineral makeup, I was excited since sometimes it is a hassle buying products online. However, I do not recommend most of the drugstore brands, like Physician's Formula, Loreal, and Neutrogena, because they contain many synthetic chemicals and additives; they are not like true mineral makeup brands which only contain pure minerals and pigments (like mica/serecite,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and iron oxides). These brands are at best a cross between conventional and true mineral makeup, and at worse, just marketing hype and companies jumping on the mineral makeup bandwagon. From looking at the ingredients of these brands, I wonder if they even understood what mineral makeup was when they were developing their product??

There are many good mineral makeup companies from large, well known (and rather expensive brands) such as Bare Escentuals, to smaller, women owned companies, and less expensive brands like Monave, Jlynne Cosmetics, Cory Cosmetics, Alima, and Ada Cosmetics. Most of the smaller lines sell samples. My favorites, as I've mentioned many times on this blog are Monave and Jlynne Cosmetics. (I actually haven't tried the more expensive brand for two reasons: some of them contain bismuth, which irritates many people, and they are way over priced in my opinion!)

Storage and shelf life of Aromatherapy Products and Essential Oils (Aromatherapy)

Some FAQs

What is the best way to store aromatherapy products (product that contain essential oils)? Are plastic containers suitable?

For temporary storage of aromatherapy products, I think that using plastic would be okay. But like many aromatherapists, I recommend storing aromatherapy products in dark colored glass for long term storage, because essential oils are light sensitive (they degrade when exposed to light), and many essential oils are mild solvents (they eventually eat through plastic). Also, over time (since the essential oils cause the plastic to break down) the plastic may release toxins into the products.

What is the shelf life of aromatherapy products?

It depends on the formulation! Products with essential oils should last at least a couple months, and those with other natural preservatives could last up to a year. However, if you constantly stick dirty fingers into your product, leaving the cap undone, or storing your products in the bathroom (a humid area) etc, it will obviously have a shorter shelf life! You can extend the shelf life of any product by storing in the fridge.


What is the best way to store pure (undiluted) essential oils (PEOs)?

Store your PEOs in a cool, dark area. I store mine in a wooden box, away from humidity. PLEASE do not store your essential oils in your bathroom!. It is suggested by many aromatherapists that as you use up your essential oils, to pour them into smaller bottles, so that there is less room for air (oxygen degrades the oils) in the container. Some also suggest storage in the fridge. Also I do not recommend storing essential oils with rubber stopper droppers, since they will eventual eat through the rubber (which will led to toxins in the essential oils). In addition, try not to leave them uncapped for long periods of time.


What is the shelf life of essential oils?

It depends on the essential oil! Citrus oils generally have a shorter shelf life (like 6 months, or less than a year), and most have a shelf life of 1 to 2 years, and may be good up to 3 to 4 years, with a slight decline in quality. However, some essential oils, if you store them probably develop over time. These are like the heavier oils such as patcholli and sandalwood. Some like sandalwood age well (sandalwood that is YEARS old is supposed to smell divine).

When an essential oil 'goes bad' it doesn't smell bad, it just smells less vibrant. But don't toss it out! I wouldn't use them for therapeutic or antibacterial properties, but you can still use them to scent a room, or objects like paper, clothing, etc. Apply on a cottonball near the object you want to scent, or make a room spray.

All Natural Perfume (Aromatherapy)

One of the reasons I switched to all natural products a few years ago was because of my sensitivity to synthetic scents and chemicals. I used to love all kinds of scents--from air freshener to conventional perfume to 'fruity and herbal' lotions, but that soon changed. In 2001 I began working at perfume counter, and after being around all those scents all day for a few months, my skin became increasingly sensitive. I began to get rashes from products I had been using for years, and my facial skin would get these tiny red itchy puffy bumps that would only go away if I used aloe. It was about that time that I began researching what goes into cosmetics, and then switching to all natural products. In my research I learned that conventional perfumes contain hundred of synthetic chemicals and only a small percentage of real essential oil (often less than 3%). I think my exposure to all those chemicals for a few months (before I quit) made my sensitive skin even more reactive, but I'm kind of glad that happened because I've learned so much about skin care and natural cosmetics, and I'm never going back!
Through my experiences of aromatherapy I've come to appreciate the scent of REAL flowers and herbs. Now that I've smelled real jasmine and rose, I can not stand the smell of their fake, chemically counterparts. I used to love things like Bath and Body lotions, and now I can't stand the smell of anything synthetic!

There are many natural companies that make some really nice scents. Some scents, like 'apples', 'grapes' etc obviously are only available as synthetics, and others, such as a true gardenia scent is hard to find and rarely available (gardenia essential oil is hard to find and also pricey, but infused gardenia oil is easy to make). However, for hard to find scents, sometimes several essential oils can be combined to create scents like 'lily of the valley'. It should be noted that perfumes made with essential oils do not last as long as their synthetic counterparts (so you won't smell like your perfume for days) and throughout the hours the scent will develop as lighter essential oils disappear (top notes, and then middle) and the heavier notes (middle and base notes) are left behind. They are usually available in an alchohol and water base or a carrier oil base.


Aubrey Organics just revamped their line of fragrances. They now offer six all natural and organic perfumes, made with essential oils.

You can also buy a lot of lovely blends from aromatherapy companies like Nature's Gift and Mountain Rose Herbs. MRH sells things like spiritual blends and NG sells a couple blends and perfumer's kits (essential oils in jojoba oil). Both have excellent prices.

True Aroma makes several nice blends, you can find them at Cosmetics without Synthetics' (allnaturalcosmetics) website, which also sells many other all natural (or nearly all natural) cosmetics.

Well known aromatherapist, Alexandra Avery, also offers several perfume blends on her site (inexpensive), and she will also make a personal aromatherapy perfume for you (kind of pricey but probably worth it). She also sells a wonderful line of all natural skin care.

Aromatherapist Kendra Grace also sells some perfumes, along with her aromajewels. (They are kind of pricey though, but she is supposed to be an aromatherapist perfumer)

Or, of course, you can MIY! It is not only less expensive but you can unleash your creative spirit!
Simply add essential oils to either a base of jojoba oil or alcohol (everclear) anywhere from a 10% to 30% concentration. Perfume concentration ratios to make eau de toillete, parfum etc are here.
I brought MRH's rose essential oil sampler, and made a perfume of of the essential oils. The rose oil sampler contains Rosa damascena (same species) from three different regions, and they all smell different! Blended togther they are absolutely divine.


If you would rather have a spray then dilute the essential oils in alcohol, then add 3-12 drops of essential oils per ounce (12 drops will make a 2% concentration).

Or you can infuse fresh plant matter in jojoba oil or another carrier oil (you can try this with gardenias and lilies since it may be hard to find those blends). I suggest jojoba since it doesn't become rancid, but if you want to use another carrier, be sure to choose a lightly scented oil, and add either vitamin E or grapefruit seed oil to perserve its shelf life. The essential oils will also preserve it to some extend. You can also make an infused oil, if the essential oil isn't available or pricey. Be sure to use fresh and, if possible, organic flowers and herbs.

You can buy essential oils and jojoba oil at Whole Foods or at MRH, NG, or at Garden of Wisdom.

Clay and Herbal Masks (Natural Skin Care)

Making your own skin products is addicitive!

For clay masks, I like using rhaussoul clay (good for all skin types including drier skin) or green clay (normal to oily). Other good clays: kaolin (a gentle white clay from China) and Bentonite, a soft but very drawing clay (draws/binds toxins).

There are a lot of ingredients you can add to clay masks. Add any of the ingredients, depending on what kind of mask you want. I don't really measure but just add a small amount of each ingredient. I make it fresh each time but you could store it in the fridge for a few days (be sure to add vitamin E, grapefruit seed oil, or essential oils to help prolonge self life).

-hydrosols, aloe, herbal infusions (tea)-basically to wet the mask and also add moisture and nutrients
-honey-helps pull out toxics, and softens skin
-egg-pulls out toxins, softens skin. If you use the egg yolk it add moisture (for dry skin), and the white part for oily skin. I like using the whole egg.
-mashed fruit or juice: the natural acids helps exfoliate dead skin cells, and also moisturize skin. Not for sensitive skin. Fruits that you can use stawberries, tomatoes (oily skin), bananas (moisturizing), avocado (moisturizing)
-mashed veggie or juice: carrot (good for all skin types esp. dry), cucumbers (soothing and moisturizing, good for puffiness)
-milk/cream--cleanser and also softener.
-witch hazel--astringent. Better for oily and normal skins (dry skins add hydrosols, aloe, and herbal infusions)
-yogurt-cleanser and softener. good for all skin types
-carrier/base oil--to seal in moisture and add vitamins.
-1 to 2 drops of essential oil--for fragrance and for specific skin conditions

If you want an exfoliating clay mask add:
-oatmeal--good for sensitive skin
-almond--good for all skin types
-brown or white sugar
-baking soda

I do not recommend using salt on your face (too gritty, though salt makes a great body scrub) or aspirin (I know a lot of beauty mags and ladies rant about the effectiveness of aspirin masks, but considering the skin is very absorbant, I am wondering if any of the chemical components of aspirin can reach the blood stream through the skin. I have not read much about the topic, but I believe it is better to be safe than sorry, especially when there are other just as effective exfoliants).

For an herbal mask (without clay) you can use a base of either honey, yogurt, egg, fruit, or one of the exfoliants, and add any of the other ingredients. Let your imagination run wild!