How to make your own herbal soaps (Skin care recipes)

*This post has been editted to clarify some information (mainly added that 8 ounces equals 1/2 pound), and to add some information (a few other soap recipe ideas).

Though I haven't yet attempted to make cold process bar soap from scratch (with sodium hydroxide aka lye), I have made my own herbal bar soaps with the melt and pour method. The melt and pour method is much simpler, and doesn't involve handling such caustic ingredients such as lye (the final end product (soap) has no lye in it; the lye and the oils/fats undergo a chemical reaction, and produce soap and glycerin). Basically you melt an already made soap base, add your favorite herbals, and then pour into a mold, let harden for a few hours, and then, you have your own herbal soaps!

You can add all kinds of wonderful ingredients to your base; these are just a few suggestions:

liquid: hydrosols, herbal infusions (tea), distilled water, aloe, honey, goat's milk, oatmeal 'slurry' (simply put a small amount of oatmeal in several ounces of hot water, let sit for several minutes, and then strain)
texture/exfoliates: oatmeal (good for sensitive skin), almonds, cornmeal, dried and crushed avocado seeds
texture/herbs: all kinds. some popular ones are lavender flowers, chamomile flowers, calendula flowers, rosemary leaves. Make sure you grind/crush them somewhat.
other powders: all types of clay, herbal powders like comfrey root
fats:some popular choices are cocoa butter, shea butter, olive oil, and lanolin
fragrance: essential oils (some people also use synthetic fragrances oil which of course I do not recommend)
colorants: I've found that they are not necessary but you can add natural pigment and colors if you want.

You do not have to add an ingredient from each list of course, just pick one, two, three or so that you like!

As to the ratios/amounts to use, it varies from author to author. I've summed up the information below. These are only guidelines, feel free to experiment with the amounts.

These measurements are based per 8 ounces (half a pound) of soap base. If you decide to use several items on this list, be sure to use less of each ingredient (and be sure to write down what you put in the soap so you remember!)

liquid: Out of all the books I have, the measurement for liquids vary the greatest, anywhere from 1 Tablespoon to 1/4 cup (4 Tablespoons). One book even recommended adding a 1:1 ratio of honey (which I've found to be a tad too much). Be sure to not add too much liquid, as the end product will end up being too soft/mushy!
texture/exfoliates: ranges anywhere from 1 Teaspoon to 4 Tablespoons, depending how much texture you want. Start with a small amount, and then add more as needed.
texture/herbs: same as above
other powders: ranges from 1 teaspoon to 1 Tablespoon.
fats: 1/2 Tablespoon to 2 Tablespoons
fragrance: 1/4 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon of essential oils, depending on the strength of the smell of the essential oil (some essential oils are more profuse than others). Always start with less, especially with this ingredient.
colorants: Honestly I have no idea since I don't use colorants, but most companies will post suggested amounts on their product.


How to make your own all natural soap:

You will need:

-a soap mold (preferable greased with the same kind of oil/fat you are using in your soap. If you are not using oil/fat, just use olive oil)
-8 oz (half a pound) of soap base
-your chosen additives
-a double broiler

In a double broiler, melt the soap base over low to low/medium heat until fully melted. Remove from heat and add your additives. Pour into your molds, and set in a quiet area where they won't be disturbed for several hours. When they are hard, run a sharp knife around the edges of your mold (note for some very, very irregular mold shapes, skip this part, as you may inadvertently mess up the shape). Turn them upside down over on a clean surface (a surface covered with wax paper works nicely), and lightly pop the soaps of the molds. Soap mold are quite flexible and strong, don't worry about exerting a little force and bending them. Wrap in wax paper or some nice (perhaps handmade) paper, and label your creations!

The recipe is foolproof. If your soap doesn't feel hard enough or you feel there isn't enough herbs etc, simply melt it again and add more base or other ingredients.

Notes:

Melt and pour soap base is usually a natural glycerin soap base. Be sure you buy from a reputable company, as some companies may put synthetic chemicals or additives to their base.

The above directions are made with only 8 ounces of soap base--but feel free to use more or less, just be sure to calculate how much of the other ingredients you'd need. The number of soaps you will have after crafting, of course will depend how much base and ingredients are used, and what size mold is used.

Another alternative to using glycerin melt and pour soap base, is to take your favorite brand of castile soap, shave it into small amounts, add liquid (about a 1 part castile to 3 part liquid or so), and melt over low heat. You can also use already shaved castile soap flakes. Make sure it is pure Castile.

Double broiler: if you don't have one, just place a heat-safe bowl over a pot of water. Make sure the bowl is large enough so that it's sturdy, and doesn't tilt over.

Sample recipe:

Super Lavender Soap:

8-9 ounces of soap base
1/4 cup of lavender infusion/tea (made with lavender flowers)
1 teaspoon coarsely ground lavender flowers
1 teaspoon lavender essential oil


Other good ideas: Honey and oatmeal, olive oil and aloe, chamomile, peppermint; the possibilities are endless!


Companies to buy from:

For supplies such as the melt and pour base, soap molds, and all kinds of soap supplies, I suggest buying from Sunfeather Soap. This soap company is owned and run by well-known soap maker, Sandy Maine. I highly recommend buying one of her books on soap making. Her store also sells kits to make the cold-process kind of soap, castile soap flakes, and she also sells already made bar soaps as well. Note: be sure you read the descriptions of each product carefully; though the majority of her products are natural, she does sell a few synthetic products like fragrance oil and SLS powder.

Craft stores like Michael's also sells soap base and molds, but I think the brand of soap base they sell (though marked as natural) contains a few synthetics.

You can also use candy molds as soap molds, but as these will make irregular shapes, it might be hard to pop them out of the mold.

For herbs, essential oils, additives, and carrier oils: Mountain Rose Herbs

Essential oils and carrier oils:Nature's Gift

Herbs: Herbalist Delight is a great place to buy small amounts of herbs.
Edited: it looks like this company is no longer in business, or at least their old website now goes...ahem...elsewhere. Sorry if you clicked on it. Thanks Georgette for pointing this out. :)

Also try your supermarket for herbs, and ingredients like oatmeal and (in health food stores) essential oils.

Black Bean Salsa/Salad (Vegetarian recipe)

This simple yet tasty recipe is perfect with chips, pita, or crackers (as a salsa), as well as on its own (as a salad). Total yum.


Ingredients:

1 25-30 ounce can of black beans or 2 15 ounce cans, drained.
1/2 small red onion
1 fresh or roasted clove of garlic*
a handful of cilantro
1 medium fresh or roasted tomato*
1/2 medium fresh or roasted red or yellow pepper*
2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
3 Tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
Black pepper and salt to taste
optional: 1/2 jalapeno pepper, 1 small can of corn

Finely chop the garlic, red onion, and cilantro, add to a large bowl. Chop and add the tomato and peppers (red/yellow, and/or jalapeno). Add the black beans and corn (if using). In a small bowl, whisk together the red wine vinegar and olive oil, add this to the black bean mixture. Mix well. Enjoy! :)


*To roast your own veggie, preheat the oven for 400 degrees F. In a foil package add your veggie, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, wrap the veggies up (to form a packet) and place in oven and roast for 40-50 minutes. OR you can buy fire roasted canned tomatoes, and also roasted jarred peppers. And roasted garlic in a jar too, if I am not mistaken.

How to make your own massage, body, and bath oil (Skin Care/Aromatherapy)

This post was editted slightly on Nov 9, 2007.

A skin product that I love using is aromatherapy body, massage, and bath oils. I like using them straight out of the shower or bath, or in bath water to seal in moisture and lightly sent the skin.

Aubrey Organics makes a couple of very nice massage body oils called 'Natural Spa Sea Wonders'. They are 100% natural and one of the few natural products that are also USDA certified organic. It comes in a relaxing scent (Geranium Oil, Sweet Orange Oil) and also an Invigorating scent (Rosemary Oil, Spearmint Oil)

But of course I like making my own! It is similar to making facial serums, but the concentration of essential oils is slightly higher.

First choose a good base/carrier oil, or make a blend of your favorites. For body and massage oils I like using lighter oils (oils typically used for oily or normal skin), and for bath oils I like using heavier oils (the ones typically used for dry skin).

Easy Instructions:

To 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) of your chosen base/carrier oil add a total of 6-12 drops or less of essential oils* Lightly roll or shake gently to mix the ingredients together. You can also add vitamin E or grapefruit seed extract as antioxidants.

Good relaxing essential oils include:
lavender
blue or roman chamomile
neroli
marjoram
any citrus (though most are phototoxic, cause skin to tan. use only at night)

Stimulating oils:
peppermint (use only small amounts as some people are sensitive to this oil; avoid if you have heart conditions, as peppermint contains menthol).
rosemary (avoid if epileptic)
jasmine
ginger

Note, if you choose to use a combination of essential oils use only a total of 6-12 drops (and NOT 6-12 drops of each essential oil). Lavender combines well with any citrus, and I also like neroli mixed with roman chamomile. Ginger is wonderful with citrus also.

*As always use less than 6-12 drops of essential oils if you are pregnant or if this oil is for children. Use around 3-6 drops of essential oil only. Be sure to research the essential oil or consult a medical practitioner before use if you are pregnant or have any medical problems before use, as certain essential oils may interact with medication, or may not be safe to use during pregnancy. Certain essential oils also are not appropriate for children.

Easy guacamole (Vegetarian food recipe)

I love guacamole. I'm currently eating already made guacomole from Costco (see my sister's blog for more on this), which is soooo good, but when avocados are in season, fresh is best since you can season it to your liking. This literally takes 5 minutes to make and is really tasty!

Easy Guacamole Ingredients:
1-2 avocados; Haas/the CA kind rather than the Florida kind
1/4 to 1/2 red onion
1 small to medium tomato
juice from 1/2 small lemon

Spices:
black pepper
salt (optional)
1/2 teaspoon cumin (optional)
1 clove of garlic (optional)
cilantro (optional)
1 jalapeno pepper (optional)

Directions:
Half the avocados, remove the pits. Scrape the flesh from the skins, and mash it in a bowl. Add the lemon juice (to prevent browning). Chop the onion and tomato, add it to the avocado. (If using) Finely chop and then add the garlic, cilantro, and jalapeno (be sure to remove the seeds from the pepper). Season with the cumin, and the salt and black pepper to taste.  Make sure you mix well.  

I used to like to top this on quesadillas, or eat this with pita bread or whole wheat crackers (the 'triscuit' kind). For those that eat chips, corn chips are also good.

If you are grain free or gluten free, guacamole is good with almond flour crackers or try coconut flour crackers, or crackers made other gluten free flours.  Or you can eat it with vegetables like cucumbers, carrot sticks, cherry tomatoes, celery etc.

If you have any left over, be sure to cover the surface with plastic wrap (press down onto the surface), so that no oxygen gets to it.

Edited March 18, 2014, to fix the link to my sister's blog post.  Also to add some grain free and gluten free recommendations and links.

All Natural Beauty forum and site (All natural skin care/beauty forum and website)

Since August, about the time I started this blog, I've been part of several forums. One of my favorites (and one of the ones I post most often on) is the All Natural Beauty forum. Hosted by Sharon Houghton, a licensed aesthetician and owner of SharAmbrosia, this forum is great for sharing ideas, and finding truly all natural products.
Another awesome source for finding information on all natural skin care products is the All Natural Beauty's website. This site is jammed pack with information on all natural skin care, recipes, and links to several wonderful companies. My favorite section on the site is the article section (reading room), which includes writings by Sharon, Debbie Bilezikian of Monave mineral makeup, aromatherapist and herbal marvel Jeanne Rose, and many others. I also love the recipe section; the lavender, honey, milk bath courtesy of the National Honey Board is particulary soothing, and leaves the skin so soft!

A special thanks to Sharon, who put a link to this blog on the All Natural Beauty's website!

Girl Kills Bear (News article)

There was a disturbing article in Monday's Metro section of the Washington Post. Last year, the state of Maryland started allowing bear hunting. This year's season started with the death of a 211 lbs bear killed by an eight year old girl. That's right, a child. I frankly don't know what is is more chilling, the death of the bear, or that this eight year old is gleeful that she has killed a bear and doesn't think there is anything wrong with the fact that she did.

Pimple Juice (Skin care recipes/pimples/serums)

I used to have flawless skin as a teenager, but in my early twenties (right about the time I became allergic to synthetics) I began to develop blemishes. It caused redness and scaring around my nose, in addition to the rashes I'd get from using synthetic ingredients. I gradually switched to all natural products, which initially made my skin worse, as I applied the wrong ingredients (for oily or dry skin, instead of for dehydrated skin) incorrectly. The products were either too drying or too rich, and I was applying way too much product. It took me a while to figure out I had a little known skin type (dehydrated), and that natural products are concentrated (no fillers) should only be applied in tiny amounts to get the benefits without the greasiness. Right now my skin is pretty much clear, and though I still get an occasional blemish (around certain times of the month ;) ), my skin has healed and the redness around my nose is disappearing. I hope to eventually go over what natural facial cleaners, toners, and moisturizers each skin type should use (make it yourself and also brands) since as I've found out it is very important to use products that are catered to your skin, and to correctly apply them. To start out, I'd like to share with you my 'pimple juice', what I do put on my blemishes when I get them.

Ingredients:

alcohol (such as vodka)
essential oils, such as tea tree, lavender, helichrysum (aka immortelle aka italian everlasting), bergamot (make sure you use only during the night or get bergaptene-free as it is phototoxic, makes the skin tan)

Per 1 ounce (30 ml or 2 Tablespoons) of vodka, add 6-12 drops of essential oils. This will make a 1-2% concentration. Shake gently, and apply with a q-tip or cotton ball as a spot treatment.

You may use either the essential oils individually or a combination of them in this recipe; no matter how many essential oils you use, only use a total of 6-12 drops of essential oils (and NOT 6-12 drops of each esential oil).

I wouldn't use this on extremely dry skin though, as alchohol is drying (or if you have dry skin, use this on top of your moisturizer). This spot treatment is really effective at zapping my pimples away! This is similiar to such products as Burt's Bees Parsley Blemish Stick or Desert Essence's Tea Tree Blemish Touch stick, though a lot cheaper if you make your own!

Some people find alcohol too drying, or want to make a moisturizer with pimple zapping power, so they prefer making a serum.

Ingredients:

carrier oil for your skin type
essential oils

Make a 1-2% concentration.

Be sure you only use 2-5 drops of the serum on your face, and apply with plenty of toner, aloe, hydrosol, herbal tea, or water.

Making Aromatherapy Creams part 2: books/resources (Skin care/Natural Cosmetic resources/book reviews)

For a good online resource for recipes check Make Your Cosmetics. This site is sponsored by Donna Maria and Handmade Beauty Network. I really love this site, there are lots of good recipes and great ideas! Some recipes may use a few synthetic ingredients (like emulsifying wax and fragrance oils) but most are all natural.

Here are some of my favorite books with cream recipes (mini book reviews):

Dina Falconi's Earthly Bodies and Heavenly Hair : This book explains techniques and the differences between creams/lotions, salves/balms, herbal oils, tinctures, herbal vinegars, powders, etc (check out the last chapter book). It has very easy and wonderful recipes for all kinds of skin and hair care products, including creams (emulsified with beeswax, with and without borax).

Erich Keller's Aromatherapy Handbook for Beauty, Hair, and Skin Care. This book is jammed pack with information, including aromatherapy/essential oil info and usage (which essential oils to use over others for specific skin conditions; there are lots of charts), how the skin and hair functions, skin and hair conditions, and contains a wide range of skin and hair cosmetic recipes. The cream recipes are well detailed; they clearly describe what temperatures the water and oils phases should be at, for those that are concerned with accuracy.

Donna Maria's Making aromatherapy creams and lotions. Depending on who you ask, people either really love this book or they hate it. I think it gives a great technical explaination on cream making, and also has recipes on how to make a few other goodies. It does an awesome job (even better than the other two books above) at describing the various ingredients, except that it neglects to mention natural preservatives. The only thing I didn't like is that it uses a lot of emulsifying wax in its recipes (which is not a natural ingredient), but there are some beeswax and borax recipes too. It may not be a good book for the beginner, as it uses many rare and expensive ingredients, which may be frustrating for some people to find. I, personally, haven't had a problem finding the ingredients, but then again I know where to find most of the ingredients since I make crafts all the time. In a way this is good for the beginner in that it describes the process in great detail, but at the same time some people get frustatrated in trying to track down the ingredients, or the recipes may seem daunting because they contain so many exotic ingredients. These are good recipes for 'fancy/exotic' creams. It has a basic beeswax cream, but mainly has complicated recipes if you want to play with textures (like creams with the floral waxes). I highly recommend it for the technical information.

Dorie Byers' Natural Beauty Basics : Create Your Own Cosmetics and Body Care Products. This book has nice beeswax (with no borax) recipes, and if you want to make a cream with lecithin, this is the only book I've found that has recipes that uses ONLY lecithin to emulsify creams (Donna Maria has recipes with lecithin but if I recall correctly she uses it with a mix of other emulsifiers). The recipes are for hand creams, but they are very nice, and you could use them all over the body/face. There is a fantastic shea butter cream recipe too. This book has many other wonderful recipes in it too. They only thing I didn't like is that ocassionally a few synthetics creep up in her recipes (like using baby shampoo to make an herbal shampoo), but for the most part the recipes are 100% natural.


Rosemary Gladstar. One of the best cream recipes ever. Get either the 'Family Herbal' or 'Herbs for Natural Beauty' (which has the same information; the Family Herbal is like a compilation of many of her little books like Herbs for Natural Beauty). Although it is only one recipe, the instructions for that recipe are awesome. This cream recipe is my favorite for my body skin, and the one recipe that I've based most of my porportions on. It is so rich and versatile, and is simply the best. Gladstars books have many other recipes on skin care, and if you get the Family Herbal book, it is a good resource on herb descriptions, and contains good recipes on natural remedies for all kinds of problems. And the rest of the book--gorgeous layout but extremely useful information. Gladstar is considered one of the best herbalists in the country. One of my favorite herbal remedy books.


Janice Cox books. Very easy recipes; beeswax based creams and some creams made just with stearic acid (which I haven't seen in other guides). I think the stearic acid creams are in her 'Natural Beauty at Home' book (make sure you get the expanded, revised edition which has more recipes). It is a good beginner guide and excellent for a wide range of simple recipes, not just creams. I like her books, and the recipes are nice but they are VERY basic (not very technical, simple ingredients). The creams I've tried from her were ok; I liked recipes from other authors better though. The bulk of the book consists of recipes; a good place to get ideas from. You can usually find Janice Cox books in your local library too (the others may be harder to find in your library though).

Mighty Mouse (Apple computer product review)

After two weeks of slight tracking problems, my mouse (the one that came with my Emac that I got 3 years ago) decided to act up even more last weekend, and then sputter out completely and die. Needless to say I was not happy, since I had a lot of work to complete and could not finish it. It seems like most people (including me) never realize how important something that appears small and insignificant is--that you don't think much about when using--until it's gone. I think I really learned that lesson last weekend.

So a few days ago I purchased Apple's Mighty Mouse, which set me back about $50. I did not have time to go to the Apple store, nor could I wait to order it online, so unfortunately had to pay full price for it at my school's computer store. (FYI, if you are a student or educator, and can get to an Apple store or order at the Apple store online, Apple offers an educational discount. I usually prefer ordering online since it is free shipping and no tax). Though I could have gotten a non-Apple mouse for cheaper (shudder), I could not bring myself to buy a non-Apple product, especially after I went to a store and tried some of them out, and found that they were not only an eye-sore, but they were so bulky, and the tracking didn't seem as smooth as an apple mouse. So far I am liking my new mouse. Though it was a tad expensive, it is an optical mouse (like my old one) except it has several new features. My favorite so far is the scroll ball located on top of the mouse; it is so awesome! I can now scroll up and down, or left and right without moving the whole mouse, which is helpful in reducing strain. The thing I am still getting used to is that (though you can't see it; the top is smooth and not split) it can work as a two button mouse. This doesn't other me too much, except when I accidentally click the right side of the mouse instead of the left. I may reconfigure it to be a one button mouse, if it drives me too crazy though! I don't have OS 10.4 yet, but the mouse can provide easy access to several of Tiger's features. I plan on upgrading my computer soon though, so will be sure to try out those additional features. The tracking is really smooth, and the mouse isn't bulky at all. Overall I am pleased with my purchase, and am once again happy I have access to my computer.

Maryland Renaissance Festival (Festival Information)

**edited: removed a link for Herbalist Delight because this company either went out of business or their site has been hacked.

On Sunday, I went to the Maryland Renaissance Festival with my sister, Edward, my mom, and the Rices: Adam, Lorraine, and their children, Ian Sol and Z. Luna (thanks Adam and Lorraine for the free passes!). I hadn't been to a RennFest in a while (maybe ten years), but it was a lot of fun! For those of you that don't know, RennFests are 'renaissance/middle ages' inspired festivals that usually run once a season in an area during the weekends for several weeks. And the Maryland RennFest is supposed to be one of the best! There are musicians, theater performances/shows, games, and of course all types of vendors selling anything from middle ages type clothing (cloaks, head wear, peasant shirts and skirts), pottery, herbs, metal and glass work, leather work (like boots), jewelry, hand crafted products, and even psychics providing tarot card readings. Like many of the fair-goers, Ian, Edward, and I dressed up (Ian as a knight, who then later switched to Robin Hood; Edward in a velvet cloak as a 'techno-mage', and me in a peasant shirt and skirt). I really loved visiting all the different vendors stalls--not only are all of the vendors super friendly (and not to mention fully dressed up in medieval type clothing), but all of the products are hand made, and some of the vendors, like the blacksmiths and glass blowers, were making some of their wares onsite. One of the best parts of the day was watching this glassblower shape a colored glass rod into a beautifully designed dragon. It truly amazes me, yet saddens me, watching people make such beautiful artwork; it truly is a dying craft.

I didn't buy any glass or metal work, but I did buy some beautiful pieces of pottery (a small glazed bowl and cup) from Tessem Stoneware (from PA; no website or business cards, but they are at the MD RennFest every year and will be at the MD Sugarloaf Craft Festival this year), wonderful naturally scented handmade soap (in lavender; orange, oatmeal, sage; and ylang ylang, sandalwood, nutmeg, cinnamon) from the Bee Folks, and a few ounces of herbs (some delicious smelling bayberry, orris root powder, slippery elm powder, cayenne chili powder, and a sage smudge stick) from Herbalist Delight (from Baltimore, MD). Edward and Bexn also brought some delicious honey from the Bee Folks. One thing that surprised me was the prices--they were pretty good! The pottery prices were only $5 each (though another potter was selling higher quality prices for a lot more), and the soap only $10 (usually $4 per bar, but they had a special at the RennFest). The prices of the herbs were not bad (I could have gotten larger quantities for a little less online, but since I have so many herbs, and since the quality was so good, I didn't mind paying a bit more for smaller quantities, especially since I brought several herbs I haven't tried yet. And the prices weren't that ridiculously overpriced). And though it's too late for me, they have a 10% coupon off for herbs purchased at the RennFest on their website.

The food was also much less expensive than I remembered, and the variety was also much better. There were tons of choices for vegetarians, and though I'm veggie and hypoglycemic, I still found something to eat (a whole wheat veggie wrap). Everyone else enjoyed all kinds of potatoes, sweets (like cheesecake on a stick), and deep fried cheese and macaroni on a stick (my mom who is the world's pickiest eater LOVED this). A few things were still a bit pricey (like wooden cups, wooden boxes, and of course some of the blacksmith pieces) but considering that it's all hand made, it really wasn't bad at all.

Aside from shopping and eating, we also saw a joust! And the Rices saw a short play. You can also rent costumes for the day, and get henna 'tattoos' and your hair braided.

This coming weekend is the last weekend the Maryland RennFest will be running, until next year. I believe it cost $17 for adults to get in (groups, seniors, and children 7-15 are less; kids 6 and under are free), unless you have good friends with passes!

Natural Preservatives in Natural Cosmetics (Skin care/Make it yourself info)

In using natural cosmetics, one concern is the use of synthetic preservatives. Some like the parabens are known to weakly mimic estrogen (which is thought to be linked with increases of certain types of cancer, including breast cancer). Many others are mild to serious irritants. There are many companies who sell otherwise natural cosmetics, and then will add synthetic (and often slightly toxic) preservatives. My question is why, when there are so many good all natural preservatives?

Some natural preservatives include:

Strongest: grapefruit seed extract (NOT the essential oil) (which is often used to purify water)

Strong: essential oils (most essential oils are antibacterial and antiseptic, and some like lavender and tea tree are also anti-viral. Many such as tea tree and euclaptus are known to kill a wide variety of germs), vitamins A, C , and E (some forms of vitamin C are not stable/degrade fast though), and herbal extracts like rosemary (which are usually herbs infused in alcohol).

Good: Herbs in general will preserve the product. You can also add a little bit of vinegar (which would also pH balance your product). Replace the water in your recipe with aloe or a hydrosol. Also Citric Acid is also a natural preservative.


I've made creams (which contain water) in which I've only used essential oils and vitamin E and they were fine for a couple months. Body and facial oils (no water) made this way, may be good for 6-8 months. Some companies like Aubrey Organics use a combination of grapefruit seed extract, vitamins, and essential oils/herbs, and those products are good for a year. Other companies, such as Dr. Bronner's/Sun Dog who makes lotion now, preserves their product with a combination of alcohol, essential oils, and vitamin E (Tocopherols). So if you used a combination of some of the preservatives, your product should keep fresh anywhere from 1 month to a year, depending on the product, and combination of preservatives used.

Other things that will help: store your natural products in the fridge (may change the texture of some products a bit), making sure your fingers are very clean if you actually touch the surface of the product (better to use a squeeze bottle or a clean spatula to scope out the product) and not keeping it in the bathroom (the humidity may cause mold to grow faster; but I'm sure a small bottle would be fine).

How to make your own aromatherapy creams and lotions, part 1 (Skin care/Aromatherapy creams/carrier oil information)

Note: I usually don't edit that many old posts. But thought I should edit this one since this entry is read a lot by crafters. This post was first written in 2005, but I edited it a bit in April 2012, since my understanding of some ingredients (like preservatives) and also some methods has changed over the years. It's still in the process of being edited.

One of best 'make it yourself' projects is crafting your own all natural creams and lotions. Akin to making mayonaisse, crafting creams and lotions may seem a little tricky at first, but once you get the hang of it you realize how much fun (and affordable) it can be! And of course the best thing is that you can cater the cream to your own skin's needs.


Basic steps in making a cream or lotion. Compiled from various books and personal experience (part of step three is from Donna Maria's book, see my post on making aromatherapy creams part 2 for references/books).

Step 1; oil phase: measure and then add the liquid and solid fats, emulsifiers, and solid thickeners to a double broiler, and gently heat it (medium heat) until the ingredients have melted. So you would add the oils, butters, and waxes or emulsifiers here (though not the floral waxes). If you are using lecithin (granules or liquid) to emulsify add it to the oil phase.

Step 2; water phase: while the oil phase is melting, in a separate double broiler, measure and heat the different waters you are using (distilled or spring water, aloe, hydrosols, herbal infusions, vinegar, witch hazel, etc) under very low heat. Heat them gently; do NOT bring to a boil. You basically want them at the same temperature as the oil phase. Basically I let them heat up until the oil phase has melted.

Step 3 (optional): If you are using certain CO2 extracts (the ones that are more solid), concretes and floral waxes, add these to the oil phase mixture, let melt and and throughly mix. If you are using things like borax and xanthan gum (powdered and gel like ingredients) add them to the water phase and throughly mix (the exception which Donna Maria doesn't mention is aloe gel, which I usually just add in step 2 since it is so liquidy).

Step 4: Make sure the oil phase and the water phase are at the same temperatures. You can use a thermometer, and some authors specify a specific temperature, but I usually just test a drop of each on my skin--making sure it is still VERY warm but not scalding hot. Make sure it is not too cool or it will separate. Typically let it cool to 80-100 degrees F. Mix well.

Step 5: In a blender add the oil phase. Begin mixing. In a slow and steady, thin stream (key words slow and steady) add the water phase, and continue mixing until the cream becomes the texture of buttercream frosting, and the blender 'chokes'. You can do this step with a mixer if you like, and very small amounts by hand, but it will take longer. Typically it takes only a few minutes to 20 minutes, depending on the ingredients, if it is a lotion (longer) or cream. Don't over mix (or it'll start to separate. Too little mixing and it won't emulsify but too much and it'll separate).

Step 6: Add your antioxidants (like vitamin E, rosemary oil extract, grapefruit seed extract. These are not preservatives; they are antioxidants. They prevent oxidation of oils). Also add your essential oils, most co2 extracts, absolutes, oleoresins, etc (you add them last so they don't evaporate). And also add your broad spectrum preservatives here too. I like using 'more natural' ones or eco cert like leucidal or geogard ultra (which is the trade name. It goes by many other various names, but geogard is basically gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate, which are also used in foods as preservatives).

Many natural formulators think that essential oils are broad spectrum, and many formulators who use synthetics think they kill bacteria and/or fungi at all. Personally, based on my knowledge of botany/science/biology, aromatherapy/herbalism, and ethnobotany, I believe that certain essential oils can be used as short term preservation, but they are not broad spectrum preservatives, in my opinion.

Step 7: Store in clean sanitized (preferable colored glass) jars. Allow cream to cool before putting on the lid.


Basic ratios:

It really depends how thick you want the cream and the texture. It's like making cookies (or anything for that matter!), there are hundreds of variations of proportions, and ingredients etc. All my recipes are different, I usually look at an already established recipe to get an idea, and then use my own oils, etc, and use similar amounts, and tweak a lot! (hence why I recommended writing everything down). In general I like using similar amounts like 4-6 oz of oils/fats/butters to the waters (though sometimes I use a little less than 50% water, like 1/2 to 1 ounce less water than the amount I use for oils), 1/2 oz to 1 oz of beeswax (depending on how many of the other ingredients I used. Start with 1/2 oz). For antioxidants like vitamin E, grapefruit seed oil, and rosemary oil extract--follow what it says on the label for concentration (since every manufacturer has different recommended concentrations for what they make, since these ingredients are made at different strengths). For essential oils I use 1/2 to 1% total concentration for the face, or up to 2% total concentration (so about 3-12 drops per ounce. It is better to use less instead of more because they are concentrated substances). I recommend using a scale for best and the most accurate results. Don't be afraid to experiment! Try using an author's recipe first (with the same ingredients and proportions) and then start tweaking and experimenting! For borax, I generally a pinch-like 1/4 teaspoon or so.


Random notes:

Some authors like Donna Maria mention to add the hydrosols in the last step, but other authors like Rosemary Gladstar mention to add it in the water phase (step 2). I usually add it in the water phase.

Some people like to add the oil phase to the water phase instead of the water phase to the oil phase.

You can refrigerate your creams to make them last longer; but this might change the texture a bit.

Use clean hands or a spatula to scoop the product out, so no mold grows on it.


Trouble shooting:

Separation problems??

It helps to use a blender, unless you are making very small amounts (like 3 oz or less). If you are making only a tiny amount, then just use a small wire wisk.

Make sure you right down all your measurements (including the number of drops that you have used of essential oils). This will help you replicate a good recipe in the future, and also learn from your mistakes (see what DIDN'T work).

Do not use a microwave to heat any of the ingredients up (it gets too hot).

If it does separates, I just use a mini wire whisk (right in the jar) to quickly whisk it all back together.

I like using waters in oils (though many authors cite using oils in waters). I've found it separates less.


Too greasy???

Try varying the oils and butters you are using:

For oily skins (well absorbed):

Grapeseed (very light)
Hazelnut (an astringent)
Jojoba (similar to sebum; really ALL skin types love this)

For normal skins (absorbs well):
almond (light)
apricot (light)

Dry skin oils (sits on skin longer):
Avocodo (very heavy)
Extra Virgin Olive (some normal skin people like this too)
Coconut (too much can be too drying though)
Macademia nut (absorbs pretty well, antiaging/fine lines, similar to sebum)
Rosehip seed aka rose mosqueta (antiaging/fine lines, scars of all kinds)

Hemp seed oil is easy absorbed too.

I've found that shea butter is more easily absorbed than cocoa butter is; it's non greasy. Shea is good for blemishes, tired muscles, fine lines, and dehydrated skin. Though it is well absorbed by the skin, it forms a breathable barrier against the elements. A lot of people do not like it in creams because of the grainy texture. Try using only small amounts and use a combination of other fats/oils/butters with the shea butter. Make sure it is throughly melted and well mixed with the other oils/fats. It is possible to make a smooth shea cream, but even if the creams are a little grainy, it will melt on the skin on contact and won't really change how well the cream works.

If you are finding your creams too greasy, even when using oils catered to your skin type, then either make lotions(which contain more waters), or reduce the amount of cream you are using. Apply only a very small amount (use less than an 1/8 teaspoon of cream/lotion) to very damp skin. I typically spray my skin with toner, water, hydrosol, or aloe, dab my skin with cream, spray my hands with water or whatever I'm using, and then gently massage it in. Then I spray more water and massage again. When I first switched to natural cosmetics, I didn't know why the creams felt greasy on my face too--it was a combination of using the wrong oils, and using too much cream on my face, and not enough water when applying. Now that I use less, and apply with lots of water, I don't have a problem with the greasy feeling. (FYI: if you want to use facial oils/serums that contain no water and waxes, use only 2-5 drops of it and apply with lots of water. When I used my first serum I applied lots of it without water and got acne!). Natural creams are very concentrated--no fillers like the chemical stuff--so you really only need to use a tad to get its benefits.


It's thin!!!

That could be because of the ratios you are using. Typically in creams the water phase is 50% or less (usually less) of the total mixture. In lotions, water accounts for more of the product.

Use aloe rather than water or hydrosol for a thicker cream. Also good if you soak marshmallow root or flax seeds in water, they produce gels too that help thicken the cream. Strain and use the gel in the recipe.


What are the ingredients CO2 extracts, concretes and floral waxes?
CO2 extracts are just a new method used to extract essential oils. The traditonal way is distilled (main method), extraction/pressing (citrus oils), or solvent extracted (some of the flower ones like jasmine, some but not all rose oil). They use CO2 in this process (they remove the CO2 at the end), so the end product is a thick 'essential oil' that has much more of the natural constitutes of the plant and also some of the plant waxes, and has no chemical residue. I haven't used them yet, but they are supposed to be thick (due to the waxes), and smell more like the real plant, and have more medical/cosmetic benefits. They are more expensive but it is recommended you use even less than the amount you'd use for a traditional essential oil; very concentrated.

Concretes and floral waxes are by products of the solvent extracted method of making essential oils. The flowers are subjected to a solvent, resulting in a concrete, and then an alcohol is applied to the concrete, and that results in the absolute (essential oil) and the floral wax.

You can read more about essential oils and some of these things at these websites

Aromaweb; good online source for all things aromatherapy.

Nature's Gift is a good place to buy essential oils, CO2 extracts, floral waxes, and has more information on extraction methods.

One of my favorite places to buy essential oils is Mountain Rose Herbs. They do not have floral waxes or concretes or CO2 extracts though. Many products are organic and they have GREAT prices (even with shipping). I recommend their essential oil starter kits.

Can I use plastic equipment (magmix or store in plastic jars?)

No. Essential oils eventually eat through plastic (some are nautral solvents). Or you can use plastic equipment to make the cream, and just mix in the essential oils with a wire wisk at the end. But please don't store them in plastic jars, unless you use a very durable plastic!

Dry lips? (Skin care/lip care)

Since fall is here and winter is coming on, I thought I'd post some information on lip care, since I don't know about you but my skin can get quite dry during this time of year!

Lip care:

Lips get dry because it is one of the few places on the human body that doesn't have sebum glands. Sebum is the natural oil secretion of your skin that helps your skin retain moisture (water). Ingredients that you can use to help retain in moisture are natural oils and waxes.

Some good ingredients are apricot oil (light), almond oil (light), jojoba oil (which is really a wax, but it is similar in composition to the skin's own sebum), macademia nut oil (also similar to sebum), cocoa butter, shea butter, coconut oil (good for dry skin though too much can be drying), avocado oil (heavy), etc.

Don't use petroleum (vaseline) or mineral oil on your lips or skin. They clog pores, and dry out the skin.

Some good all natural companies to use:
burts' bees
badger balms (some organic ingredients)
terressentials (organic)
aubrey organics (natural lips, clear formula, vegan).

Pure shea butter (aka kartite or african butter) is also good:
Mountain Rose Herbs
Vegannatural
Shea Terra Organics.

Also it helps if you exfoliate your lips with a wash cloth in the shower.

How to make your own herbal tinctures, vinegars, and infusions (Herbal information/teas)

Herbal extracts, herbal vinegars, and herbal infusions are very easy to make. As many of you know from reading this blog, I really love making my own products. It's fun, easy, and extremely cost effective! When people first start out with making their own products, it may seem like a bit of an investment of time and money, but once you start, you realize that it really isn't that hard at all, and it ends up being much less expensive than already prepared products. (That, however, does not stop me from buying commerical products though--I'm busy too, after all!


Herbal extracts/tinctures:

Herbal extracts aka tinctures are made by infusing plant material in alcohol or sometimes vinegar or glycerin, usually for 3-6 weeks. Depending on the ratio of plant to medium, you can make quite a concentrated solution; there are usually more active constituents extracted from plants in an extract than in a water based infusion. Plus they have a long shelf life (1-3 years) and the small bottles (if you purchase them) don't take a large amount of room in your cupboard. They are a great way to store and expand the shelf life of herbs, and make a concentrated solution (they are more potent).

Generally they are used in cosmetics (to add the benefit of the herb to the product, and as a natural preservative), and also as medicine (typically 1-4 drops are comsumed, one to a couple times a day). For those of you that are sensitive to alcohol (children and hypoglycemics) you can add the tinctures to a cup of boiling water, which will evaporate the alcohol but leave the herbal constitutes, or try a glycerin based tincture.


To make a herbal extract: to a very clean and sterile glass jar, fill it with fresh or dried herbs, and cover the herbs with vodka or brandy. Keep it in a dark place and let infuse 3-6 weeks. Strain. Ratios of herb to medium can vary: some authors suggest a 1:1, some a 2:1, or a 4:1 ratio. I usually just fill the jar with herbs and then pour enough alcohol to cover the herbs.

It is better to use fresh herbs (as they contain more of the essential oils). Lightly use a damp paper towel to clean the dirt off them, and then let them air out and slightly wilt in an open brown paper bag for a day before using the herbs. This will also give time for bugs to escape! Then on the day you are making the tincture, lightly chop the herbs and then add to the jar. Some people will also infuse the mixture TWICE (after steeping the first time, strain out the old herbs and then add new herbs and then steep again), but this isn't neccessary unless you are using herbs that are old (not recommended), or use herbs that don't have a lot of essential oils in them.

Glycerin based tinctures; if I am not mistaken, are made first using alcohol, then somehow companies will remove the alcohol and then combine what's left with the glycerin.

Places to purchase tinctures: Mountain Rose Herbs and local health food stores. If you purchase them make sure you read the ratios of herb to medium. Better companies will typically use higher ratios (more herbs).


Herbal vinegar:

A herbal vinegar is made in the same way as a tincture, however, instead of alcohol, vinegar is used. I like using apple cider vinegar, but I've also had good results with red wine vinegar too. But you can really make them with all kinds of vinegar.
I've made herbal vinegars successfully with dried and fresh herbs. Some herbalists recommend placing herbal vinegars in a warm, sunny place to steep (like making a sun tea), though to me that doesn't make sense since sunlight typically destroys/degrades the natural essential oils faster. But then again, there is that whole concept of infusing your vinegars with solar and luna energies, so maybe next time I'll try that! To shorten the time of steeping, you can also try gently warming the vinegar before adding the herbs, and the steep for only ten to fifteen days. Long shelf like 1-3 years. Store in a dark bottle.

Some uses of herbal vinegars:
-cleaning (made with white vinegar)
-a toner, hair rinse, or body rinse (in the shower; very deodorizing), or a natural deodorant. Be sure to dilute!!! 1-2 teaspoons or less per ounce of distilled/spring water. Don't worry, you won't smell like a pickle; the smell quickly dissapates. Drier and sensitive skins may not want to use this.
-for food! A sage vinegar is excellent on salad, or you can use them as marinades. You can make some very tasty combinations: like a balsamic vinegar/sage combo. Yum.

For a quick herbal vinegar add 10 drops of essential oils per ounce of vinegar! (I wouldn't eat this kind though, unless you used small amounts of essential oils (1-3 drops), and used the oils from known 'food' (like orange or lime, or peppermint). Some essential oils are solvent extracted, and they are very concentrated indeed!


To make an herbal infusion:

That said, water herbal infusions (a fancy name for tea) are great too; but they don't have a long shelf life. They aren't nearly as potent but to make a strong infusion for cosmetic/medicine uses, bring the water to a boil, take the water off the stove, add the herbs, make sure your pot is capped tightly (to make sure no essential oils escape; or you could use a jar), and infuse for 20 minutes to an hour, then strain. One book that I have suggests 1 to 8 hours. Roots and berries and heavier materials need to be simmered for at least 20 minutes and then infused for at least an hour.

I think extracts and vinegars (used on the skin) are also better for oily prone skin (since it contains alcohol or vinegar which can be drying) while infusions are great for drier skins.

Have fun crafting!

Happy Mountain Day (Mount Holyoke College)

Well I'm posting this a few hours late, but Wednesday was Mountain Day at Mount Holyoke College. For those of you that don't know, Mount Holyoke College was the first woman's college in the U.S., and yours truly, is an alum :) . Mountain Day is one of Mount Holyoke's traditions. On one beautiful day, every fall, the president of MHC will wake up, decide the day is just too gorgeous to spend indoors in class, and will declare it Mountain Day. All classes are canceled, and many students spend the day hiking up and then picnicking on the local mountains (ok, so they are more like really tall hills, and not vast mountains, but we didn't mind!). I don't think I ever climbed a mountain myself on Mountain Day (hey, it's a leisure day), but I do recall many happy ones just hanging around outside (for at least part of the day, if I wasn't swamped with work). I thought it was the coolest tradition; wish my grad school did this! So Happy (uh, belated) Mountain Day to all my friends and fellow alums!

Sources for Environmental Jobs (Environmental Job resources)

I just posted this on a forum a few days ago, so thought I'd post this here too. Here are many wonderful sources for job-hunting in the environmental field. It can be hard finding an environmental job (as I've been finding out), but hopefully the job market will be better in the coming months (once I finish grad school! :) ).

One of the best resources I've found for environmental jobs is EcoEmploy/ejobs. There are links to ecological jobs all over the U.S. in the non-profit, government, and private industries.


Also great is Idealist; my sister told me about this website many years ago, and I've found it to be one of the best resources for non-profit jobs. They have listings for positions all over the world.

For jobs in the federal government, check out their official job website, USAJOBS. Check under such agencies as Environmental Protection Agency, National Park Service, U.S. Geological Survey, U.S. Fish and Wildlife, etc.

Americorps is a great place to get community-based/environmental jobs and internships. They don't pay very much but the work experience is great and you can get money for school (undergrad, grad school, and some specialty schools).

Student Conservation Association is a great organization. You can apply for internships all over the U.S. in many governmental agencies like National Park Service and other organizations. The stipend is small but they reimburse you for traveling expenses, provide housing, and you can get an Americorps Education Award. You don't have to be a current student to do this; I wasn't. (I think you have to be under a certain age though).

Environmental Careers Org has some internships and information on their site on getting a green career. They also publish one of the best books on the subject.

Look on the webpages of your favorite non-profits. One good non-profit, National Park Foundation in D.C. has on-going internships. They are the official non-profit of the National Parks. I did an internship there myself; the staff is extremely friendly, and I worked on a little bit of everything! The stipend is about $1300/month, and the internship lasts for 6 months, or was the last time I checked.

Also, if you're a student, go to your school's career center or check with your environmental studies or biology/science departments. Usually most departments send job links to the grad students. If you're not a grad student, ask anyways! Also your school's career center will provide help in improving your interviewing skills, and of course have many resources.

Finding environmentally friendly makeup brushes (all natural makeup information)

Sometimes finding a more environmentally friendly product can take a bit of sleuthing! One example of this is my search for more eco-friendly makeup brushes. Now though I advocate using all natural products over synthetic ones, since they are much friendly to the environment, there are times when synthetic is better! My criteria for eco-friendly makeup brushes are ones that are made of synthetic hairs, and that are cost effective; that is ones that don't cost an arm and a leg for this budget concious grad student!

I use mineral makeup, and there is a big debate whether animal hair brushes or sythetic taklon brushes are better; a lot of ladies prefer animal hair brushes over the taklon for the mineral/powder foundation, and taklon for the eye shadow. So it was a bit difficult trying to find a taklon foundation brush that was under $20.00.

I finally found a few good choices. Aromaleigh (a mineral makeup company) recently started carrying a nice taklon brush for foundation; their 'Total Coverage Face Taklon' brush. It is only $17.55. I am thinking of getting this, as it's gotten good reviews on Aromaleigh's forum (f.y.i. their mineral makeup is mainly natural and vegetarian, but be sure to read ingredients lists as some products contain parabens, synthetics, and carmine).

For eye shadow brushes, one thing that I did, was go to my local craft store (Michael's), went to their paint section, and bought a lot of taklon paint brushes (be sure to get regular taklon and not golden taklon which in my experience generally has harder bristles). I got like 12 brushes for $6 onsale (value packs), because Michael's have weekly 40-50% coupons! I did not, however, find a brush that fitted my foundation powder needs, as the taklon open stock brush heads were not dense/big enough for me (they were out of a lot). But other Michael's and craft stores in different areas may have different selections, so some one else may have better luck than me.

Overall I think my taklon brushes work really well with my mineral eye shadows because they really grab/hold onto the color.

For those who prefer animal hair over sythetic bristles, be sure to get ones from comapnies that have attained the hairs by cruelty-free methods (so the animals don't die). Some companies I've found are Aromaleigh, Monave, and Cory Cosmetics.

Fun at the festivals (National Book and Green Festivals review)

Overall, I had a very good time at both the National Book and Green Festivals on Saturday. D.C. was a happening place this weekend. In addition to these two fests, there was an anti-war protest (which I also saw a bit of), and several other festivals/conventions at the Convention Center. Here are some of the highlights of the Book and Green festivals.

I only stayed at the National Book Festival for maybe an hour and a half. I went there primarily to see Neil Gaiman's reading, and got there just as he was being introduced. He was extremely funny and warm (and not to mention cute, and all dressed in black, as usual ;) ). He mentioned that one of the reasons he wrote 'Anansi Boys' was because, after he had children, he began to understand that all children are embarassed by their parents, and he wanted to write about that and family ties. He also wanted to write a funny novel because it's been 15 years since he wrote one ('Good Omens' with Terry Pratchett) and people are convinced that he actually wrote 'Good Omens' as a serious novel, and that Terry ran after him like a pixie inserting all the funny lines and footnotes :). He read what he called one of the 'Anansi stories' from his new novel, which were based on actual Anansi myths. Another highlight was that that when he mentioned (at the beginning of his reading) that he was utterly bookless (from being shuffled all around, since he's on tour right now), one of his fans rushed up to the stage and handed him her copy of the book. I loved his reading, but it was way shorter than last year (I think last year each writer had at least 45 minutes if not an hour to speak, instead of 30 minutes like this year's). But I enjoyed it immensely.

After eating and listening to some poetry, I headed to the Green Festival (the reading was packed, and since I didn't have time to buy any books earlier, I knew that by the time I bought one and got to the line, it would be insanely long. Also I wanted to really go to the Green Festival, so I didn't bother to get anything signed). I had such a good time at the Green Festival. I talked to a lot of non-profits, including one of the directors of Defenders of Wildlife (whom I'm supposed to e-mail to get more information about Congress's attempt to undermine environmental laws like NEPA). I also found out that D.C. has a Vegetarian Society; I never knew that! I got lots of yummy recipes from them and a vegetarian restaurant guide of the area. I also bought a lot of natural cosmetics and got to talk to the owners of Terressentials, James and Diana, who are are really nice, and meet Nadina of Nadina's Cremes, who is a sweetie! (And I got the contact information for the vice president of Dr. Bronner's/Sun Dog's Magic (he wasn't there so I didn't get to meet him), so I could contact him and get some information for my paper on their lawsuit with the Organic Consumer Association against the USDA, for their attempt to weaken organic standards in natural cosmetics.) I got some free samples of a few products: lotion (Dr. Bronner/Sun Dog), laundry detergent and dish soap (Seventh Generation), and drank free tea. I also talked to a few yoga schools in the area, and inquired about classes.

Another totally cool thing that happened, was when I came upon the table for one of the herbal schools, and overheard the conversation between one of people at the booth, and an interested lady, talk about natural medicine and how this natural doctor in the area helped her. I pulled out my courage and asked the lady (the festival go-er) if I could have the name of her doctor. She kindly gave me the doctor's card (she happened to have it on her), and then gave me a hug, gave me her e-mail, and said to let her know how I'm doing in the future (I told her I had some health problems and all these western doctors couldn't help me). You know it's times like this when I truly feel like people actually do care and help each other; it helps me hold onto my faith in humanity, even when things look down.

And also totally awesome, as I was leaving I bought some african black soap (which I've never tried but heard so much about) from this local company called Divinity Vegannatural. However because of the reception, my credit card took forever to go through their machine (the signal kept going in and out). After walking around and coming back twice (so I could sign the slip), one of the nice owners said that it was ok, and that I already waited around long enough, and if I had to leave, it was fine. I offered to leave my contact information, but she said it wasn't necessary and she was sure it'd go through once they got outside, and if it didn't then I'd get free soap since I'd already earned it by waiting so long. So I shook their hands, and was about to leave, when one of the other owners hands me a small jar (for free) of their vegan hempchocolate body butter! They were so cool and nice. I do hope that their machine began working after I left; I know my money is good, but I wasn't so sure about their machine!
(the black soap is marvelous and the hempchocolate butter is absolutely delicious, by the way)

Most of the companies and organizations there were truly green, and the cosmetic ones were really 100% natural--even many that I hadn't even heard before. That said there were a few 'green washers' did show up; like Nature's Gate, a cosmetic company who claims to be 70% organic but whose products are cock full of synthetics. Their products are better than a lot of the other (conventional) cosmetic brands out there, but having any amount of synthetics in your product really defeats the whole purpose of being organic or natural!

All in all, I really enjoyed myself at the Green Festival today, and all the people I talked to were super friendly and nice except for this one company, Al-Qemi, whose TWO reps TOTALLY ignored me for several minutes, by concentrating on talking to someone else at their booth. Didn't even acknowledge my presense, so I walked away. Also they were supposed to have a community talk on natural cosmetics at 3 pm, that I was looking forward to, but they cancelled it! Didn't get to try out the free yoga though, not enough time.

Once I go through the ton of literature (I really DID get a lot), and sort through it all, I will report on all the different companies. Eventually.

Book and Green Festivals in D.C. (Things to do)

Just a quick reminder. The National Book Festival in D.C. is this weekend (September 24th, on the mall). It is free! I will definitely be there to see one of my most favorite authors, Neil Gaiman. He's presentating in the Fiction and Fantasy Pavilion from 12:40-1:10pm, and then signing from 2-4pm. He'll probably be reading from his new book, Anansi Boys. Be sure to line up quickly for the signing, as the line for him (as I discovered last year to my dismay) was long. Hopefully this year I'll actually get something signed.

After the Book Fest (which is why I might forgo the signing), I intend to head towards the Green Festival. It is also on September 24 and 25. It is at the Washington D.C. Convention Center, and cost $15 for adults each day, $7 for Students/Seniors, but kids 12 and under get in Free! Also if you ride your bike to get there you can get in for $5. There will be a lot there: clothing made out of organic and sustainable materials, organic food, fair trade coffee and chocolate, and speakers galore! Also free yoga and tai chi classes. Can we say I am excited this weekend?

Artic National Wildlife Refuge Rally (Environmental News)

Incidentally, last night (technically Tuesday night but really early Wednesday) I caught some* of the Artic National Wildlife Refuge rally that occurred on Tuesday on Capitol Hill (on Cspan-2). I'm glad I caught this on tv since I actually didn't hear about it, since I was buried in homework and then had to go to class. It was very intriguing to not only hear about the issue but also see the different techniques people used to present their speeches. In one of my classes ('Translating Environmental Policy and Science into Action', taught by environmentalist great Dr. Lee Talbot), I am learning the kinds of tools/strategies people use to promote action, and I really saw one of them (building rapport) coming into play. The speakers really tried to connect to all types of people from all walks of life, to bring the people together to induce change. They had children speak, a young budding environmentalist from Yale, Democrat and Republican Congressmen, a Jewish religion leader, well-known environmentalist advocates like Robert F. Kennedy, former government officials from the Clinton administration, etc. The speeches ranged from cute but informative (the children) to passionate to quite detailed.

One thing that made me really angry was the amount of money that drilling for oil in the Artic NWR would actually save: 1 penny per gallon off the price of gasoline in twenty years. Twenty years' time? And only a penny? One of the children had a better idea: by 'pumping it up'; by making sure tires are properly inflated, the U.S. could save 40 million gallons a year. Other interesting facts are that we use 25% of the world's oil, and that even if we drilled all the oil in the U.S. (including the Artic NWR and every other reserve we have) the U.S.'s oil reserve only accounts for 2% of the world's reserves. 2% versus 25%. As R.F. Kennedy said 'do the math, we don't have enough'. Bottom line--drilling in the Artic NWR is unnecessary and it won't solve any of our energy problems. The only things drilling will accomplish are destroying one of the last pristine areas left in the U.S. and filling the pockets of the greedy.

I hope those on the Capitol heard the message loud and clear.


(*I am sad that I missed John Kerry's and Hilliary Clinton's speeches since I had to go to bed--I saw this on C-span 2 around 3 am in the morning, and had to sleep so I could wake up early to do more homework. Ahh, the work of a grad school student. Well, at least I saw Robert F. Kennedy Jr.'s speech).

'Alaska Natives Offer a Herd Of Reasons to Block Oil Drilling' article (Environmental News)

Here's another good article on the Washington Post. The Gwich'in Nation (a Native American people) is advocating near the National Museum of the American Indian to stop drilling in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Their Nation of 8,000 people are dependent on the caribou that live there. The article made me a little sad, especially since the author, Vanessa de la Torre, emphasized that on some days few people stopped by to listen to the Gwich'in representatives (ironically even those that visit the museum).

As I was reading this article this morning, a Tori Amos (who is part Native American, by the way) song called 'Wampum Prayer' kept whispering in my mind.


In our hand
an old old
old thread

Trail of Blood
and Amens

Greed is the
gift for the
sons of the
sons

Hear this prayer
of the
wampum

This is the tie
that will
bind us


I think that pretty much sums it up.

'Congressmen Seek Endangered Species Change' article (Environmental News)

Here is an interesting article from the Washington Post. It appears that some congressmen (a handful of Republicans and Democrats) are proposing a bill that the Endangered Species Act be rewritten, to require that the government reimbuse land owners for losses incurred from protecting endangered species. Though this may intially sound like a good thing, the catch is that if the compensation isn't paid, then the government can not enforce the Endangered Species Act. According to many environmental groups, this provision would cost so much, that the law would become pretty much worthless. Hopefully it doesn't get passed.

All Natural Cosmetics and Products (all natural cosmetics and makeup information and books)

*Note: edited Sept 29, 2006 to remove a MMU company (Aromaleigh) which is no longer all natural.

I try to use only 100% natural products (or as close to them as possible). Ever since my skin has become super sensitive to chemicals, I've tried to stay away from synthetic ingredients in cosmetics and makeup. Throughout the years I've learned a lot about what really consitutes as natural, what is 'borderline' natural, and what simply isn't. It still astounds me how many companies 'green wash'; that is, claim to be natural or organic when they are not. In the coming weeks, I will profile many companies, reviewing their products, and commenting on their effectiveness. Most of them will be 100% natural, or as close to it as possible, and some will even be (or have some) organic (ingredients), though I will also try to profile why I won't use some of the other popular 'natural' brands (hey, I'm anal about this!). If some of their products contain synthetic ingredients, I will mention it.

Until then here are some good brands: Aubrey Organics (skin and hair, some makeup and household cleaners), Paul Penders (skin, hair, makeup), Burts Bees (skin, hair, makeup), and Badger Balms (skin). Aubrey Organics and Badger Balms also use some organic ingredients. For 100% natural and organic: Terressentials (skin and hair), MiEssence (from Australia; skin, hair, makeup), Dr. Bronner's and Sun Dog's Magic (skin, in particular soap and lotion), and Vermont Soap (soap, some cleaning products). For mineral makeup: Monave.

I recommend getting books on the subject or researching on the internet, since some of the companies in natural health food stores, while they may use a lot of natural ingredients, they really aren't 100% natural (Kiss My Face, Avalon, Nature's Gate, and Jason come to mind). They are way better than other companies though.

For a good site on the topic check out the Organic Consumers Association's website. Though this only focuses on 100% natural and organic standards, and may exclude 100% natural (though not organic) companies.

Also check the websites of some of the companies I've listed (in particular Aubrey Organics, Terressentials, Miessence, and Dr. Bronner/Sun Dog); lots of good information on the subject on their sites.

I would also suggest any book by Aubrey Hampton (of Aubrey Organics): 'What's in your cosmetics' is a good source on natural and synthetic ingredients in products (written like an encyclopedia). If I come across an ingredient I don't know, 95% it's in this book. 'Natural Organic Hair and Skin Care' is the book on natural versus synthetic comsetics. He's also written 'the Take Charge Beauty book' which I thought was better organized than 'Natural Organic' but 'Natural Organic' has more information. 'Take charge' has more recipes though.

Resources on 'going veg' (Vegetarian cookbooks and information)

One of the best things you can do for your health and the Earth is become vegetarian. Not only does eating fruits, vegetables, and grains provide your body with vital nutrients, but eating more of these foods also reduces your chances of developing a wide number of preventable diseases. Also 70% of the grains raised in the U.S. are fed to animals raised for food (PETA website, 2005); costing much unnecessary damage to the ecosystem.

With all the great choices available in the supermarket and the plethora of information nowadays, it's easier than ever to 'go veg'.

PETA has an amazingly good website to get people started on their vegetarian journey. They have a great free vegetarian starter kit that you can either request or download from them (as a pdf). It has recipes, all kinds of nutritional information, tips on children and vegetarianism, and lists a lot of other resources. I highly recommended reading it. They also have a wonderful cruelty free living section on their website.
I know a lot of people think PETA is a 'crazy vegan political-militant' organization, but I believe while at times they may be a bit extreme, they truly do a lot of good and offer many great vegetarian and environmental resources to the public.


Now on to my favorite part to discuss: the food. One of my most favorite vegetarian cookbooks is Madhur Jaffrey's 'World of the East Vegetarian Cooking'. This is one of the best cookbooks I've found for authentic types of Asian (Indian, Chinese, Japanese, and Indonesian) and Middle Eastern cooking. Many of the recipes are vegan (a vegetarian that does not eat or use any animal derived products like meat, eggs, dairy, honey, leather, carmine, etc) as well. For more American style vegetarian cooking I suggest Mollie Katzen's 'Moosewood Cookbook'. Katzen's book is a classic; it is the book that popularized vegetarian food in America in the 1970s. There are a few good recipes in Rachel Ray's 'Veggie Meals'; but the recipes aren't really that innovative (mainly simple things like pasta, soups, and a couple of stir fries) but they are fast, easy to prepare, and delicious.

One of my most favorite vegan cookbooks is the 'Compassionate Cookbook' by PETA. There are a lot of wonderful recipes in it. My sister gave me this in 1992 (I think), and it is still one of my favorites :). It is kind of hard to find; PETA sells it on their website as a pdf, and Pangea sells the paper copy.

Foodnetwork's site is great too. And don't forget to check out my sister's blog for great recipes, reviews on restaurants, and pictures of her new cute kitties :) .

And don't forget, even if you choose not to become vegetarian, there are still plenty of ways to eat in a more environmentally friendly manner. Try replacing a few meals a week with familiar vegetarian foods like pizza, pasta, stir fries, or incorporate some vegetarian 'mock' meat products like veggie burgers in your diet. Or if you're feeling more daring, try something totally different like a tasty vegetable curry or paneer. Buy more organic food, and, if you eat dairy and eggs, free range products.

Remember small steps and changes are better than not doing anything at all. Your body and the planet will thank you.

All Natural Glass, Mirror, and Window Cleaner, and 'Clean House, Clean Planet' book (Natural Cleaning and Book plug)

I really hate the smell of Windex. So I've been trying to find a replacement for it for a while. A lot of natural house cleaning books suggest vinegar (white), which works great (the smell dissipates quickly, or if the smell really bothers you, infuse some herbs in it, or add a few drops of essential oils) but I couldn't use it on my car's windows, since vinegar is acidic and I was afraid if it got on the paint, it'd mess it up or something. I finally found a great all natural cleaner for my car's windows: club soda. I kid you not. I found the tip in 'Clean House, Clean Planet' by Karen Logan. It really works--my car's windows were so dirty because I haven't washed my baby for a while, and I used some, and it not only got rid of the dirt but dried to a streak free shine (be sure to use one towel to wipe, and one to dry to avoid water spots though). How's that for an environmentally friendly tip that's good for the planet, doesn't smell at all, AND cheaper than the chemical stuff? Can't wait to try more tips from that book; it is awesome!

Neil Gaiman (Author/blog link)

I first heard of Neil Gaiman through the music of Tori Amos. I've been listening to Tori's music since 1992, and was curious about who this 'Neil Gaiman' was that she kept singing about (Neil's name has appeared in several of her songs). It wasn't until about 5 or 6 years ago, when I was searching for new authors to read, that I stumbled across a copy of "Stardust". I admit the thing that made me decide to read it was that Tori had sang about Neil making her into a tree in one of her songs ("Horses" from the 'Boys for Pele' album), and Neil had made her a tree in this book. I fell in love with his writing, and since then have read all of his books (I still haven't gotten around to any of his famous "Sandman" comic books though; kind of out of my comic book phase, but the stories and artwork are supposed to be fantastic). The things I love about his writing are his humor and insight on many different subjects, and his originality.

Aside from writing wonderful books (and comic books), he also has a very interesting blog. Recent topics include the adoption and picture of a new kitty bent on world domination, and homemade 'Satanic tomato' salsa for sale to benefit the recent hurricane victims.

I had the opportunity to hear him read at last year's National Book Festival. For those who missed it, he is also reading at this year's also (on September 24th).

Make Your Own Aromatherapy Sprays (Aromatherapy/Essential Oil Recipe)

A wonderful way to incorporate aromatherapy in your life is to use an aromatherapy spray. Sprays have a multitude of uses. Some of my favorite uses include: air freshener, a light body perfume/cologne spray, a spray to lightly scent the hair (hair holds scent really well), to freshen up clothes, a bacteria buster/antiseptic spray (great to use when you're sick or for the trashcan), a body deodorant or odor remover, an insect repellent or spray for insect bites, or for those times you just need to take a moment to breathe slowly, relax, and destress! The possibilities are endless; the only difference between all these sprays is the concentration and kinds of essential oils you use.

Sprays are really easy to make:

For every 1 ounce (2 Tablespoons) of spray:

3 to 12 drops of essential oils (about 3 drops makes a 0.5% concentration, and about 12 drops makes a 2% concentration)
6 teaspoons of everclear

Add the essential oils to the alcohol. Shake gently before each use.

Shelf life is a few months.

Notes:

For general air fresheners, I recommend using a lower concentration, unless the area you are spraying in is really stinky! The reason I recommend 0.5% concentration or less is that some essential oils are solvents or can discolor fabrics etc. Mainly these are the citrus oils (I never understood why some companies put citrus essential oils into their laundry detergent formulas, since they are mild solvents and can affect the dyes). Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) absolute, oleoresin, or CO2 extract is heavenly. My sister loves grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) and lime (Citrus aurantifolia) essential oils!

Body and hair sprays: you can use up to a 2% concentration unless your skin is very sensitive. Good essential oil suggestions are lavender (Lavendula officinalis aka L. vera aka L. angustifolia), rose (Rosa damascena, R. rugosa, R. centifolia, R. alba), ylang ylang (Cananga odorata, available in different fractionations), or your favorite!  Be mindful that some essential oils, like angelica root (Angelica archangelica) and some (and not all) of the citrus essential oils are mildly phototoxic (make your skin more sensitive to the sun).  You can read about phototoxicity in this post and also in this post.  If you choose to use the phototoxic essential oils, just spray your hair and clothes.

For clothes: Atlas cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica) and lavender would be good choices for clothes. They used to scent clothes in the Middle Ages with both of these herbs to keep them fresh smelling and also to repel insects. Use a low concentration of essential oils.   Don't use angelica root, since it can attract insects.

To kill bacteria: 2% is fine, but if you must, you can go up to 5% (30 drops of essential oils per ounce) but mind where you are spraying (fabrics or materials)! In aromatherapy, less is best; and a 2% concentration is strong enough to kill bacteria.  Most essential oils are antibacterial, but some are antiseptic, and some even are anti-viral. Lavender and tea-tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) are wonderful since they are all of these.

For body deodorant, use a 2% concentration. Lavender, clary sage (Salvia sclarea), the citrus essential oils, and tea tree are good choices.

General odors (trash can etc): see general air spray uses.

Insect repellent: a 2% concentration is good. Spray on your clothes, hair, and skin, careful not to get in the eyes. Good insect repellents are lavender (though flower scents can attract bees), lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus), atlas cedarwood, patchouli (Pogostemon cablin), and lemon eucalyptus (Eucalyptus citriodora).

To apply on insect bites: lavender, blue aka german chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) or roman chamomile (Arthemis nobilis) , and tea tree essential oils. 2% concentration.

Relax: Many essential oils are great for relaxing! Try lavender, rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens), any of the citrus oils, rose, jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum, J. sambac, and J. auriculatum), or whatever you like! Up to 2%.

For facial sprays, I would use a 1/2% concentration.  There are many great essential oils you can use for the facial skin like lavender, rose, neroli (Citrus aurantium), jasmine, ylang ylang, and more!

Note: it's better if your spray bottle is made of glass (some essential oils eventually eat through plastic). Colored glass is best (essential oils degrade in sunlight). But if you decide to use a plastic spray bottle, just check it from time to time for leaks.

If making sprays for children, use 1/2% concentration, and research well before use.  Many essential oils are not suitable for babies and young kids.

Hurricane Katrina (Disaster Relief)

Compassion and hope are truly the things that make us human. If you can, please donate to the recent hurricane victims. Many local supermarkets, schools, government centers, non-profits, and religious groups are currently accepting monetary donations. If you prefer to donate online, I recommend donating to well-established organizations like the American Red Cross or check your favorite news channel's website for a list of more organizations.
Here is NBC's list of organizations; there are links to donate cash, to donate and volunteer, and to offer housing to the victims.

Many may wonder why organizations prefer monetary donations over sending food, supplies, and clothing. First, sending money to places is simply easier and more cost effective; if an organization (which is not in the devastated area) sent food and supplies directly, there are things like transportation costs, temporary storage issues, loading, unloading, and sorting issues to consider, which may impede getting the supplies faster to those in need. Also organizations usually have a better idea of what is needed in an emergency, and with your monetary donations can buy exactly what the victims need. Furthermore, most organizations will purchase goods from businesses in the surrounding devastated areas, which further helps the affected local communities. These are only some of the good reasons why most organizations prefer monetary donations. So please donate today and help make a difference.